How to remove seams from 1/35 figures?

cooey2ph wrote:

@ Indy: very nice post there, thanks!

You're welcome ~ Glad someone got something out of it.

With a very sharp and new craft knife blade then followed by some sprue solution of need. For the softer plastic like the Italeri/Matchbox/etc figs, I use a sharp knife and the heated edge of a screwdriver to melt off the burrs. As for painting, I personally use a mix of hobby, student grade and artist grade and craft acrylic. 

@ Indy: very nice post there, thanks!

ajlafleche wrote:

Gigatron wrote: Thanks for the tips, Indy I think I'll try my hand with the Tamiya paints on the figures I have and if I decide I want to do more, I'll invest some more into the velejo. -Fred Please do some research on painting figs with Tamiya. The paint is formulated for airbrush use. You need a degree in alchemy to successfully use this formula with a brush. The paint skins over very quickly, but is not at all dry. Your next brush stroke, ft it touches the previous one at all will lift it. You can't fix the mess it leaves witout stripping the project. 20 years ago, Tamiya was great for brush painting, this formula is not. Save yourself a ton of frustration and use a better brush paint.

Here's my pallete for a WWII Russian Soldier(all based on Tamiya XF-49 Khaki)   Several bottlecaps in a small cigar tin. The 2nd tip here is the white I used is an actual high-end artist acylic(Winsor & Newton Titanium White)in a tube(only about $6 and ESSENTIAL for painting with ANY acylics)has a thick gel base, plenty of body, plenty opaque(Permanence AA Series 1) All 5 are mixed from it and the center is the base color, with 2 lights, 2 shades, (darkest one got a few drops of Tam Fl Black)each bottlecap is mixed from a larger cup of the middle color and all of them have a drop or two of alcohol on top.

The uniform is made up of these colors alone

3rd tip, always primer(or basecoat with laquer) to use these paints. Here I used my favorite Tamiya TS-3 Dark Yellow as primer/basecoat. This time with some easy masking I basecoated boots with TS-6 Matt Black and helmet with TS-Olive Drab also.

For some effects, like a wash/filter on fine details, I recommend you go back to your oils(if you can stand waiting for them to dry) or enamels.(I like Floquil) Here I used some darkened Roof Brown Floquil over a Tamiya base, on his spare-drum-magazine pouch

~~~The most importaint tip though, for brushpainting Tamiya, is seeing the quick-drying-time as a blessing to be utilized, and not as a curse to well....make you curse. Brush it on thin, and let it dry....move on. Come back and lay down another layer, but don't screw around, scrub or fuss. Keep the layers thin and even. Thats basic to acrylic painting, it's just easier to achieve that with Vallejo. One major difference I don't hear discussed between the two is that if you  want to remove a small mark with the Tamiya--you can take a bit of thinner(alcohol) on a brush and scrub it off! If it doesn't come off, a little laquer thinner WILL make it go. The Vallejo acts much more permanant, which is generally a big plus, as you can go right over previous layers without messing them up, but as a beginner, fixing mistakes takes up alot of your time(even for non-beginners)

 I didn't own any Vallejo when I did this build, but I do now.  After  I said all that, Gigatron, I say go buy some Vallejo. They are another story. They are fantastic to use, and really I resisted buying /  trying them too long ~~ but I taught myself to get some results  without them.   Personally I think theres a place for several paint lines on each of our benches. I have 4 (hobby lines)   not to mention the artist paints I have, and I make use of all of them.                      Try Everthing

~Indy

  I have to agree with the guys about Tamiya paints.  I bought couple of bottles last week for the first time as recommended for the German uniforms.  I was very pleased with the color... it was the best match so far right out of the bottle without mixing. BUT it was difficult painting... only one stroke at a time and let it dry before you can apply another coat.  I tried to paint same area while it was still wet and it was ruined.    I will use my airbursh next time I use Tamiya only when I am painting those German uniforms. 

I prefer to use MM enamel or arclyic if possible because it is easily available at local lobby shops (they don't sell Vallejo unfortunately). So what's the perfect color match for German uniforms for MM paints?  That's my only frustration...

Gigatron wrote:

I think I'll try my hand with the Tamiya paints on the figures I have and if I decide I want to do more, I'll invest some more into the velejo. -Fred

Hi Fred,

As the others have suggested, go with Vallejo for your figs. Brush painting with Tamiya can be an exercise in frustration.  I'd also suggest a light airbrushed primer coat of Tamiya acrylic first, as Vallejo (when thinned suitably) doesn't always like to stick to bare styrene.

I'd also suggest mounting the fig on some sort of armature for handling while painting. While the finish is very nice, Vallejo can be kind of soft and it doesn't take much handling for the finish to pick up a bit of a "shine".

Gigatron wrote:

Thanks for the tips, Indy I think I'll try my hand with the Tamiya paints on the figures I have and if I decide I want to do more, I'll invest some more into the velejo. -Fred

Please do some research on painting figs with Tamiya. The paint is formulated for airbrush use. You need a degree in alchemy to successfully use this formula with a brush. The paint skins over very quickly, but is not at all dry. Your next brush stroke, ft it touches the previous one at all will lift it. You can't fix the mess it leaves witout stripping the project. 20 years ago, Tamiya was great for brush painting, this formula is not. Save yourself a ton of frustration and use a better brush paint.

Thanks for the tips, Indy

I think I'll try my hand with the Tamiya paints on the figures I have and if I decide I want to do more, I'll invest some more into the velejo.

-Fred

Removing Mould Lines From Figures :

* X-acto knives

* 300 - 400 grit sandpaper folded into small 3-fold rectangles

* Micro-files - the smallest set you can find, with a fine-even tooth pattern-{Some recommend diamond files, and these are useful, (for metal figures particularly)but the 'grit' is too large for fine detail work}

     ~ Like the guys said the flat is great (for getting flat areas flat   &   for large areas)

     ~ The small round file is great for in-between large, soft features like clothing folds

     ~ BUT, my personal favorite is the small Triangular file as this can be worked in between features that need x-tra definition, like around the belt & straps,boot-tops,cuffs,ect. and can give you a clean, even cut, right through the mould line to the surface, right where you need more definition.

     Like you said, sanding sticks are too big for this work, unless you cut them down. They are really difficult to cut however, unless you have a Mitre-Maker. They sell that at www.micromark.com

For Vallejo www.squadron.com has them all on sale right now for $2.43 Ea.(free shipping on $100 or more) and I highly reccommend those paints

Steve, is it possible to get the micro chisel blade by itself?  I have the handle from the panel scriber (though I stopped using the handle because that crummy set screw keeps stripping out).

Aj, thanks for that link- it looks to be very helpful.

**EDIT** I found the bits on their site - I wish it were a bit easier to navigate over there 

-Fred

Among all the methods described above, I also rely heavily on my Micro Chisel.

Steve

Thanks for the tips, guys

The round file that you use, is it the same rat-tail file used in electronics or something different?

-Fred

when removing seams on detailed parts the first step I take is using thinned putty.  I take a glob put it in a tray and soak it in laquer thinner, its ALOT more managable and doesnt glob on.  takes less to remove it to

as far as not removing details, use a soft touch, and a file, dont just start grinding away 

Hello,

When it comes to seams on fabric folds, my tecnique is using the small round file. It's like trying to create new folds in accord with the existing ones, along the seam line. Not only you don't lose details, you get new ones. Seriously, most of the time you just regenerate the folds that were interrupted by the parting line. For tight corners I also use a scalpel blade. Hope it helps, have a nice day

Pawel

I use a No.10 and No.11 scalpel to scrape away the seams (I think they are the same shape as x-acto blades). No.10 rounded blade to scrape the majority of the seams, then No.11 pointed blade for the detail (between legs, fingers, ears etc), then rub it over with scotchbrite to remove the scrape marks.

Wilbur Wright wrote:

I use three things..... a #11 blade..... x-acto small flat file..... x-acto small round file.....I think the files are only 2 bucks each. then prime the figures and you will inevitably see more  that you didn't see before.   Between legs for instance you use the #11 sharp edge to scrape off the mold line. I woiuldnever use sand paper for any of this, theres no control of what  comes off. I also use humbrol enamel, tamiya acrylic, and model master enamel.....also with artist oil paints....I doubt anyone that paints figures uses just one brand of paint.

100%

I use three things..... a #11 blade..... x-acto small flat file..... x-acto small round file.....I think the files are only 2 bucks each.

then prime the figures and you will inevitably see more  that you didn't see before.

Between legs for instance you use the #11 sharp edge to scrape off the mold line. I woiuldnever use sand paper for any of this, theres no control of what  comes off.

I also use humbrol enamel, tamiya acrylic, and model master enamel.....also with artist oil paints....I doubt anyone that paints figures uses just one brand of paint.