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Simple tips on figure photography?

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  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: Essex, UK
Posted by FingersEddie on Friday, July 20, 2007 1:38 PM
All my pictures are taken outside in overcast or shadowless light. I use the sky as my lightbox, its the best light you can get. Directional lamplight can hide a multitiude of sins, but daylight will always tell the truth.
I always paint durin' the day, never at night under a light, daylight balanced or not. When I finish shadin' and highlightin' I take my work outside to look for any discrepancies or inaccurate blendin', 'cos this light will always show these things up. Get your work done right and lookin' right in this light, and your on top of your game. My 2 cents [2c]
"Ask not what you can do for your country, ask what your country is doin' to you!" "If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear." "Say 'NO' to censorship, it leads to a dictatorship!" http://public.fotki.com/paulyrichard/
  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Friday, July 20, 2007 12:28 PM
I have found that nothing beats natural light streaming through a big picture window--not sun, just flat light...
  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: The Green "Mountains", Vermont
Posted by IanIsBored2000 on Friday, July 20, 2007 9:43 AM
Yeah, my dad goes crazy when I ask about anything related to boats, bicycling or antiques.  I'm pretty lucky--both my parents encourage this habit--er hobby-- we call modelling.  through his business connections he met a guy who apparently lives comewhere near me in Colchester VT and has a huge collection of figures and scale model subjects and says he'd love it if I came and took a look.  Pretty exciting to me, never seen a model in person other than my own.  Don't think there are any shops very close to me--and all the hobby shops are either Wargaming shops or more of Toy shops.  Great for paint, not so great for anything else.
"Scanlon: work your knobby hands on the table in front of you, constructing a make-beleive bomb to blow up a make-beleive world."
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Thursday, July 19, 2007 10:29 PM
 IanIsBored2000 wrote:

 ajlafleche wrote:
Ask him to help you. (Watch him beam when you og to him for help...brownie points in the bank!

 

You MUST be a father Al....you're completely right, killing two birds with one stone!  

Holy Moly, I hope not, my wife'd kill me! I do know a few fathers, though. One, a student of the Civil War, was thrilled whe his then 13 year old asked if they could go to Gettysburg.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: The Green "Mountains", Vermont
Posted by IanIsBored2000 on Thursday, July 19, 2007 7:50 PM

 ajlafleche wrote:
Ask him to help you. (Watch him beam when you og to him for help...brownie points in the bank!

 

You MUST be a father Al....you're completely right, killing two birds with one stone!  Anyways, I just discovered photo editing on my computer and it is getting rid of a lot of problems.  I can get rid of the orangish tint and the darkness problem in about 15 seconds.  So If I can get the focusing thing down, I should be able to get some good shots.  Thanks for the help.

"Scanlon: work your knobby hands on the table in front of you, constructing a make-beleive bomb to blow up a make-beleive world."
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Thursday, July 19, 2007 7:35 PM
The orange glow is definitely due to daylight setting under incandescent bulbs. The video probably doesnt have a spot meter, but if your fatehr has some good film cameras, he's sure to have either a hand helld light meter and/or a center weighted meter on a camera. Ask him to help you. (Watch him beam when you og to him for help...brownie points in the bank!

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: The Green "Mountains", Vermont
Posted by IanIsBored2000 on Thursday, July 19, 2007 7:29 PM

Anther problem I have with almost any kind of photograph yis a bright redish/orangish glow, so I'll try out with sunlight/incandescent/flourescent tips.  I'll see about the macro and stuff as well.  One thing you mentioned--I'm using my dad's video camera and I've never seen a crosshair, which would be very helpful for focusing wher I want it to.  I'll ask him about his other cameras though, He went to school for it and has some pretty high quality ones which might be better.  Thanks for the tips, I'll see what I can do.  I use those same two lamps, or pretty close, too so atleast I'm on the right track with lighting.

"Scanlon: work your knobby hands on the table in front of you, constructing a make-beleive bomb to blow up a make-beleive world."
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Thursday, July 19, 2007 7:21 PM

Well, you may know nothing about cameras, but you need to learn if you want to use them properly.

Presuming you have a digital camera. or film camera

1. Make sure you have the correct "white balance." Sunlight, flouresent and incandescent light are all different temperatures measured in degrees Kelvin. I don't remember the tech stuff, but sunlight is bluer, incandescent more yellow and flourescent greener. Our minds compensate for most of these differnces automatically, unless you're going from one to the other quickly. Your flash is set to the same temperature as sunlight. Find the button or program that says White Balance and press it til your image looks right with white whites. Using film, you'll need to get the proper filter or indoor film to compensate for the lighting.

2. You should have a "Macro" setting, usually indicated by a little flower icon. This allows the camera to get up close and personal. Lacking this, use your zoom  and step back from the subject and zoom in. With an SLR, you'll need a lens with a macro feature, extension tubes, or a magnifying adapter. In either case, if you have a real simple point and shoot, you're out of luck.

3. This applies the same to both types of camera. Spot metering is essential for small subjects. Find the button or program that sets this. You should have some sort of target, a cross hair or circle in the middle of the viewfinder. This tells the camera you want it to adjust to this spot. The shutter release may have a detent position where it locks the focus and meter to the center of the image and will alllow you to adjust the position without resetting the aperture and/or shutter speed.

4. Lighting, this, too, applies to both and follows from #1. If you need to use your flash, you need to use the zoom feature as mentioned above. Flash and macro don't mix except in some very sophisticated equipment. Use two or three adjustable light sources, flexible desk spots, as in my "studio" below. Adjust these to eliminate unwanted shadows and to highlight what you want. Most of these were taken in this setting and all were taken with a Sony FD95 2.1 megapixel digital camera.

5. A tripod will be necessary for much opf this unless you have a very good, fast lens. That's one of the strengths of my antique, really good glass. Most of those pictures were taken hand held, mostlly because a tripod wouldn't fit in my workspace and when I'm doing real close ups, the lens is within an inch of the subject.

 

 

 

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: The Green "Mountains", Vermont
Simple tips on figure photography?
Posted by IanIsBored2000 on Thursday, July 19, 2007 6:51 PM
Well, I'm no maser when it comes to photographic my 1/35 AFV's but I can atleast get a decent shot of what it is.  Anyways, I was painting up some resin faces/heads to day and wanted to post pictures to get advice...but I just couldn't get a good shot.  It's raining now so maybe I'll have better luck with natural lighting tomorow.  I used a powerful desk lamp and a blue backround and even tried different distance from the light, holding the camera closer/further away, but nothing worked.  Almost all came out way too dark as in barely able to tell it was a head, and then some were just too blurry.  Any tips?  nothing complicated I don't know anything about cameras but I was just looking for tips.  Thanks, Ian
"Scanlon: work your knobby hands on the table in front of you, constructing a make-beleive bomb to blow up a make-beleive world."
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