How to paint soldiers 1/35

First, forget the Tamiya. You'll only frustrate yourself. If you plan to get serious about your figures, consider investing in Vallejo or Andra panits. Marion Ball, also a Swiss national, does virtually all her painting in these paints. If you can get Historical Miniatures #62=1, the current uissue, there's a good tutorial on painting with acrylics. Also, click here and start the step by step on the right side titled, "Last of the Mohicans". Also, visit Historicus Forma and read through some of the figure articles there.

For the most part, figure painters no longer uses washes and dry brushing except where there's a lot of fine textures, like fur or hair. Highlights and shadows are done with thin or blended layers of paint.

Thanks a lot. I actually discovered that the main import store for Vallejo Colors in Switzerland is a town 15 minutes away from mine So thanks a lot. Is there somewhere on the net a chart for those colors on how to mix them for the different camo uniforms?

thanks a lot again 

I think they have several sets with specific camo colors already mixed. They have an add in the afformentioned HM magazine promoting camo colors with attendant highlight and shadow colors.

Here's a link to their site. Click on Model Color and choose sets.

if you use an airbrush the Tamiya paints work well, they seem to be too thick when brushed and don't cover that well {at least the flesh is poor}

I guess you could air brush the uniform color {at least the German when pants, jacket is the same color} then do all the final with the other paints. I was thinking of trying this making my first pass of flesh out of the gun.

keep in mind, I am better at telling you what does NOT work well as my figures are not worth showing on this site {well my 1/48 are not too bad, but I still don't get them as well as others here}

dostacos wrote:

if you use an airbrush the Tamiya paints work well, they seem to be too thick when brushed and don't cover that well {at least the flesh is poor}

Back when Tamiya had their original formula, I used them, but even then, out of bottle the flesh color is not a good shade. I had to mix it with one of their browns to get an acceptable shade of caucasian flesh. In fact, I've yet to find a commercial flesh color by anyone that looks right out of the bottle. The closest I've found in Vallejo red beige.

Jeferson,

Welcome to the fun of painting figures!  I know many figure modelers argue that Model Master paints--especially the Acryl line--are not good for figures, but that's what I use!  Actually, I use a combination of their Enamels and Acryls for different colors, certain details and various layers or weathering. 

As far as the process, I have had great success using Shepherd Paine's technique as described in his How To Build Dioramas book.  Basically, paint the skin/face base color first; do the shadows, highlights and 5 o'clock shadow.  Then paint the uniform/clothing base color, followed by shadows and highlights.  Once that's all done, add the final details.

I use MM Enamels for the skin colors: Flat Dark Tan for the base color, let dry.  Paint in the shadows using Flat Dark Tan mixed with a drop of flat black.  Lay in the first layer of highlights with Flat Tan; blend this layer in immediately.  Paint the highlights using Flat Light Tan and blend.  For 5 o'clock shadow, I use Flat Light Tan and Flat Black (or sometimes Flat Rubber), then lightly brush it and blend it on the face. 

For 1/35, I use a fine detail brush to lay in the shadows and highlights and use a separate wide, soft brush to blend. 

After the figure is painted, I spray it with Testor's Dullcoat in the spray can to seal the work. 

Like I said, this is just a technique--my technique--but find what works for you and go with it!  Hope this helps and keep us posted on your progress!