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The long awaited figure tutorial

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  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Wednesday, October 8, 2008 12:25 PM

Sounds like you're reffering to 1/48 or 1/72 figures. They are harder to sculpt than 1/35 (about 5cm tall) so if you do want to try your own sculpting, it would be a good idea to start with larger figures.

To begin with, sculpy is not the thing to use - it's basically glorified play-doh. What you want is a two-part epoxy putty like Milliput or Apoxy Sculpt - epoxy is smoother, easier to work, and cures much stronger than any play-with clay will. Best of all, epoxy putty is water-soluble before it cures, so you can wet your tools to make your job easier.

You'll need special tools to sculpt fine detail - I use a dental pick with one flat end (similar in shape to a flat toothpick) and one rounded, pointed end. A cosmetic orange stick sanded to shape also works. The good old #11 blade isn't that useful for sculpting, so if you were trying to use one of those, it's no wonder it isn't working.

Faces are about the hardest thing there is to scuplt, I'd recommend using pre-made heads until you get very good at sculpting - even I can't do very good heads yet. It is all done by hand in most cases, so there's really no quick and easy altenative.

Plastic figures are made by injecting a metal mold with liquid plastic, than adding a hardener to make it cure. Resin figures are made by pouring a two-part epoxy resin into a rubber mold. Since the rubber is more flexible than steel, figures cast in rubber molds are usually better detailed and in fewer pieces because the rubber mold can have undercuts. You can buy casting resin and RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) rubber online or at good hobby stores, however a good starter kit will cost around $50 and only contain enough rubber to make molds for about 7 figures. The molds must be designed very well, too, or they won't work.

I think your best bet right now would be to buy some plastic figures and practice modifying them using epoxy putty. You should learn how to sculpt well before you attempt an entire figure from scratch, because then you not only have to worry about the details, but all the proportions must be exact as well.

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    October 2008
Posted by falconeye on Monday, October 6, 2008 7:01 AM

 Hermesminiatures

After creating my own 2.3 cm high human figures out of wire and < sculpy> clay, ...about 2 weeks of difficult, tiny  sculpture , uniforms, canteens , ammunition belt , etc ... I  found that my work is NOTHING when compared to the exquisite figures that can be purchased ready made !

My curiousity is sparked by the enormous detail ...eyes, mouth, expressions that appear on faces 2.5 mm hig ..really detailed exquisite work for ready-made figures.

QUESTION:
1.  How are such tiny detals added to human figures only 2.3 cm high ?

2. Even IF the figures are reproductions of a prototype:
how is the prototype made wth such fine detail ?

3. Finally: What process is used to manufacture the production  "mold" for  2.3 cm high figures?

Thank you  for ANY information or answers ! !

falconeye  

  • Member since
    October 2007
Posted by Peagis on Thursday, July 31, 2008 12:51 PM
When will part IV be up?
  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Monday, July 28, 2008 10:34 AM

You can order them from ausfwerks.com. I've never heard of this technique being used with enamels, although technically it could be as long as you let the paint fully cure before applying the next layer. Since applying a mixture containing a lot of thinner over an uncured layer will often lift the first layer, you would have to wait at least a day in between layers. Also, most enamels wouldn't have the same properties as Vallejo acrylics.

So technically, it could work with enamels, but it would take weeks to shade a single figure and probably wouldn't work as well.

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: St. Petersburg, FL
Posted by sawdeanz on Sunday, July 27, 2008 7:54 PM
First of all thanks, this tutorial is helpful. I can't wait to try out this technique. At first I was confused about the glazes but now it makes sense and easy. My question is, where can I get vallejo acrylics and do they have any flesh sets or something that would have the colors i need for painting faces etc. None of my lhs carry them. Could this technique work with enamel at all as long as I waited for them to dry between coats?
  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Coastal Maine
Posted by dupes on Monday, July 14, 2008 7:06 AM
Hahahah! Wouldn't I love to. The whole colorblind-with-colormixing thing has got me a bit worried, however, so I'm still stuck on deciding whether or not to buy that ENORMOUS box of Vallejo Model Color paints, or just a few bottles and hope to find some "recipes"...wanted to use what I have on hand (read:Tamiya) but have been warned against it. Whistling [:-^]

Contemplating just the smaller "Panzer Aces" sets, but don't know if they have all that I need. Confused [%-)]
  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Sunday, July 13, 2008 8:05 PM

I've been pretty busy lately but I'm almost done with it. Should be posted within a week if things go as planned.

Also, I'm going to be pretty upset if somebody doesn't actually start posting some photos of all the figures that they were so eager to paint when I started this tutorial....you've already got all the needed info to start painting! Wink [;)]

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Canada
Posted by Birdgunner on Sunday, July 13, 2008 4:32 PM

Hey, we are still waiting on pins and needles for part 4!!!  Any idea when it will be posted?

Thanx's

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Monday, June 23, 2008 3:00 PM
 Dougums wrote:

    And ditto that dupes, some figs just dont stand up on thier own. I need some bases. 

For a figure that's to be displayed by itself, I mount them on a 2 inch cube from Michael's. I stain it, add groundwork et voila, a base. If you want to display it next to a piece of armor, they also have 1/8 inch circles and other shapes. These can be painted  and will allow you to give your display as sense of scale. The blocks sell for a dollar and the smaller pieces less, I believe. Running a piece of brass rod or even paper clip up the heel allows you to drill a hole in the base to make the figure more stable.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    June 2007
  • From: Kansas City MO
Posted by Dougums on Monday, June 23, 2008 2:34 PM

    Thanks for the tip ajlafleche! I will give it a try.

    And ditto that dupes, some figs just dont stand up on thier own. I need some bases. 

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Coastal Maine
Posted by dupes on Monday, June 23, 2008 11:18 AM
So what's the ETA on part 4, Hermes? All of my figures are asking...Laugh [(-D]
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Monday, June 23, 2008 10:18 AM
 Dougums wrote:

 Now only if I could paint a pair of straight eyes.  

Doug 

To check on properly aligned eyes, I keep a small mirror on my bench. When I've added the irises, I look at the face in the mirror. I don't understand why that makes it easier to see the alignment, but it does. It's like when you get your haircut, the barber/stylist is watching your reflection more than directly at you.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Monday, June 23, 2008 7:41 AM
 Hermesminiatures wrote:

Okay guys, I'll see about adding some more photos of mixing and applying glazes.

Thanks, I'll be watching for those! Thumbs Up [tup]

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Sunday, June 22, 2008 8:16 PM

Okay guys, I'll see about adding some more photos of mixing and applying glazes.

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    June 2007
  • From: Kansas City MO
Posted by Dougums on Sunday, June 22, 2008 7:36 PM

Hermes - Thanks again for putting this together.  The third installment is great.  I have worked with glazes before and I really enjoy watching the figure come to life.  Now only if I could paint a pair of straight eyes.

 

 Hermesminiatures wrote:

The key to learning this, like most of the other techniques, is practice, practice, practice.

 

Ain't that the truthWink [;)]

Doug 

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: League City, Texas
Posted by sfcmac on Sunday, June 22, 2008 6:06 PM
 THis is interesting to the extreme. Working on figures is just like doing a whole separate model to me. Thank you for sharing your techniques!
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Cheyenne, Wy
Posted by cheymike on Sunday, June 22, 2008 6:53 AM
As a newbie to the forums and a recent returnee to modelling who had NO clue what to do with those figures included in the kits other than make them look like blobs of painted plastic.... THANKS!  Great tutorial!
Cheymike
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Saturday, June 21, 2008 5:45 PM

 Hermesminiatures wrote:
So, anybody still following this? I was kind of surprised to hear no Part 3 questions...

I'm still here!  After reading part 3, I had some questions about glazes.  Before I asked them, I wanted to look at the photos again but that was when Photobucket went all skrewy!

I read your descriptions about the glazes, but having never tried it- I am hesitant to give them a whirl.  DO you have any other photos that show the progression of shading using them, or perhaps a photo showing a typical glaze in a cup/on a tray so I can get a better feel for their consistency?

Thanks for the toot, and the help! Thumbs Up [tup]

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Saturday, June 21, 2008 5:00 PM
So, anybody still following this? I was kind of surprised to hear no Part 3 questions...

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posted by zokissima on Monday, June 16, 2008 1:34 PM
Wow, fantastic. All the detail and description that one would need. Thanks very much.
  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Sunday, June 15, 2008 10:28 PM
Okay guys, part 3 is finally up Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Coastal Maine
Posted by dupes on Friday, June 13, 2008 5:56 AM
Well it's about time. Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]
  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Thursday, June 12, 2008 8:00 PM
Well I finally got my laptop back from the repair people, so I should be able to add part 3 soon. Borrowing computers isn't exactly ideal for writing long detailed things like this tutorial Smile [:)]

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Relocating
Posted by Mobious on Sunday, June 8, 2008 9:10 PM

An excellent tutorial so far,

I will be keeping an eye on this one. I've tried painting faces with acrylics but failed miserably. The shading thing threw me for a loop. The mini gallery was a great idea. I've already picked up a few pointers that I always rush thru, the prep work. So I would like to thank you for sharing this tutorial.Thumbs Up [tup]

"It's a problem of applied physics" Roy Brown

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Indy
Posted by raider83 on Sunday, June 1, 2008 5:32 PM
I remember seeing that first bust in FSM recently Buddho. Good stuff!
On the bench: Monogram 1/48 Kingfisher Cardinal Ritter- Class 1A 2008 Indiana State Football Champs
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Newport News VA
Posted by Buddho on Sunday, June 1, 2008 4:00 PM


Here are some of my figures painted with Vallejo and Citadel acrylics:

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posted by T-rex on Sunday, June 1, 2008 3:28 PM

Read a figure tutorial and it says "acrylics when are dry are just too dry and unrealistique for flesh color on figures, enermals are better canse there smooth..." 

Well it doesn't really matter the paint use on the figure as look as it looks good, it just eyes and shadows that I can't do right, as well as highlights.

Working on: Trumpeter SU-152 (1/35) Trumpeter E-10 (1/35) Heller Somua (1/35)

"The world is your enemy, prince of a thousand enemy. And when they'll find you, they will kill you... but they will have to catch you first ''

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Friday, May 30, 2008 9:16 PM
Nope, I've been working on finishing up my Jagdpanzer for the Hunters GB so I've been a bit pressed for spare time. After Sunday, I should begin writing again Smile [:)]

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Coastal Maine
Posted by dupes on Friday, May 30, 2008 7:47 PM

Great stuff there, Al. Cool [8D]

Hermes...how's part 3 coming? Still recovering from those bike rides? Mischief [:-,]

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