New Paper Modeler - Need Help

Hello Chad!

I see you got some nice, quality Polish paper models - I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun with them - and I would be glad to help you whenever you feel like writing - in this thread or a PM.

I even have the first one completed - ulnuckily no photos, and I gave the model away as a gift to a friend.

Now generally the best method of reinforcing parts with cardboard is to cut them out coarse (meaning leaving a few millimeters of unprinted paper around the actual outline of the part), then applying glue - spray type glue works great here. White glue can be used too, but there are some types of white glue that distort the paper part when applied on the whole surface - those should be avoided. Then you glue the part on the cardboard of the right thickness and let the glue dry throughly. When the glue is not fully dry you will notice the reinforced part is somehow "funny" to cut, gummy or spongy. This goes away when everything is dry. Then you cut the part out "fine" - exactly on the line. Tight corners are best done with a sharp knife and not with scissors. The inner corners and the gun cutout on the part you posted are places where a nice break-away type knife will really come in handy. Use that break-away feature often and always have a sharp point at hand - you can gae a much better quality model this way.

Please note that the part you have shown and generally the overwhelming majority of parts that need to be reinforced with cardboard don't need to be folded. The dotted lines in your example are just locations showing where other reinforced parts will connect.

By the way - the inscription in the lower portion of the part tell you to sand the part a little to form an edge ("szlifować" means "to sand" in Polish).

The slots in parts "W-14" and "W-15" are also best done with a sharp knife. Don't worry and cut the base of the slot with a cut a little wider than the slot itself - makes for an easy work and doesn't make the part significantly weaker.

One more thing - the bulkhead somehow almost always have a tendency to be a little too big. Before glueing check them for fit with the outer skins and sand down the edges a little bit to make them fit.

I hope this helps - if you have any more questions, please don't hesitate to ask. good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

Pawel, I was really hoping you would see this post!  It helps so much!  Thank you my friend!

I use 1/16 inch basswood!

Thanks Phil!  I definitely feel like I can do this if I go nice and slow. 

Philo - with all due respect, nice 1mm cardboard works better for this!

Chad - how about a little WIP with photos? Good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

Pawel - Which one do you think would be the best one to start with?

Chad - I don't know the Dewotine kit - maybe you could post some pictures of the parts? Other than that I know that Bf-110 and I have a good idea about that Su. Both models are not very hard, but I wouldn't quite recommend them as a first paper model. The Bf-110 would probable be OK if you built it without the cabin interior. On the Su the tracks are probably a lot of work. This is all no problem in case of a modeller who works slowly but steadily, thinks ahead and has experience with other type of models.

Having said that, I'd probably recommend the Dewotine or the Bf-110.

Hope it helps - have a nice day

Paweł

Pawel: Where does one find cardboard in varying thicknesses?

Space Ranger - you can buy it in art supply stores and the likes, but I like to recycle - because cardboard is everywhere around us, you just need to keep your eyes open. All those boxes, packaging materials and lots of the stuff normal people just waste. How about the backs of old calenders - many of them have nice, large format cardboard backs. Blocks of drawing paper have them too. In the old communist times shoe cartons were a popular source in Poland.

If you have good glue, you have the option to glue two layers of thiner cardboard together getting the desired thickness. For thinner stuff there are various advertising material often printed on surprisingly good paper.

So it's really a question of awareness - and I'm sure you can find something suitable that's already been paid!

Good hunting and have a nice day

Paweł

Hi! 

Welcome to the Wide, Wide world of Paper-Modeling! I get my cardboard from two sources.The local donut shop.  Not Dunkin! Only the box tops( no greasy spots there! When I need a lot like my present project the Andrea Doria, I buy it at Office Depot. I use the cream colored card stock file folders.

 Follow pawel's instructions and you'll be good to go.I use Aleens Sticky Glue( Clear) Now.It deforms the paper not at all if you use it sparingly. Regular Aleens, like Elmers seems to have to much water in it!

      There is something I forgot to put in here.If you have to laminate paper to Cardboard, then this is important. When you do your "Fine" edge as Pawel has explained there is something to remember. Cardboard makes the part thicker so Take your knife and slightly "Chamfer" With the deeper edge toward the middle of the part, the edge away from the outside surface.

       This way when you glue it all together, you will have a nice finished edge and no cardboard showing!

Tanker-Builder

Hi! 

Welcome to the Wide, Wide world of Paper-Modeling! I get my cardboard from two sources.The local donut shop.  Not Dunkin! Only the box tops( no greasy spots there! When I need a lot like my present project the Andrea Doria, I buy it at Office Depot. I use the cream colored card stock file folders.

 Follow pawel's instructions and you'll be good to go.I use Aleens Sticky Glue( Clear) Now.It deforms the paper not at all if you use it sparingly. Regular Aleens, like Elmers seems to have to much water in it!

 

Hey Tanker,

You stilll using the Aleen's Clear Sticky Glue for your paper models?

Yes! S.M.T.!

    Although I have figured out the problem with The Regular. I was working in my room. The air around here is cranked up all the time so it is cooler than most houses. Sooo-I have to just use less of it. The clear is still my Go to!

Just a few glue tips for new paper modelers, which may or may not be relevant.

As several replies noted above, white glue will tend to make paper parts ripple or curl. However...if it's all you've got...or, if extra strength or stiffness is desired for a certain application, white glue will do fine if applied in a thin layer, and left pressed under a weight to keep it flat until it fully dries.

Second...should one be inclined, it is generally good to avoid spray-type adhesives, as they often tend to discolor to random and ugly yellow or brown patches with passing time. I have had this happen even with name-brand (3M) adhesive which is specifically marked "non-staining"...which is due, I think, to the somewhat 'random' ingredients of some of the grades of paper stock used to print these models over the years.

Enjoy your build! It's a great corner of the modeling hobby, with a vast number of models available that plastic manufacturers will never touch. Plus, completing even simple models gives a real sense of accomplishment and craftsmanship.

Cheers

Gregbale!

      The real fun fo me is finding other materials for Rails and Ship ladders. I use P.E. and Zip Ties(For the steps ) and P.E. for the handrails. It doesn't look to bad either!

 I don't know about the spray adhesives, because I don't use them. But the same can be said for Craft Clear matte and Gloss finishes. Some will turn yellowish on the white parts of a ship! I think  it is because of the card and paper make-up.