Gamera

Captain: Great photo of the Seaview!!!

I was going to post the same. There's something about that image, it's mezmorizing.

The interior is a beautiful looking build and as many have commented before, the crystal compliments the study perfectly. 

The story is a wonderfully crafted flight of fancy.  The tale is something you might discover find while perusing museum displays with their brass plaques and velvet ropes.

PhoenixG

The interior is a beautiful looking build and as many have commented before, the crystal compliments the study perfectly. 

The story is a wonderfully crafted flight of fancy.  The tale is something you might discover find while perusing museum displays with their brass plaques and velvet ropes.

 

You sir... are too kind. Thank you!

I made another light box. This will mount behind the opened door that I fabricated. When viewed from one side of the assembly, you can see through that door some. The opening leads to the engine room and so the multicolor Led will give the look of some sort of power plant. Also, I wanted to add a little detail, thus the copper piping. You'll get a sence of structure verses a blank wall. 



That is where I am today. I am waiting for the Leds to arrive. Once I get those I can start testing things for light balance and such.

Later.

Cap'n Mac!

     I guess that's why one of my hobbies years ago WAS salvaging, rebuilding and restoring Old Wood Boats! For Myself and others. Just something about the Smell of Marine Grade Cedar and Teak, not to mention White Oak and Silver Pine. I cannot, for the life of me, Figure how those Poo B#$%@&#s forward of the mast survived the life they did. Maybe that is why so many were hard Drinking old men by thirty.

      The smell of the woods and the old style varnish you had to make of cakes you bought at the Chandlery, definitely led one to daydream sometimes. Oh, and Yes, The vessel would definitely talk to you.Thing is Ya better Listen too!

Well... the main light box did not work out as planned. Facing two LEDs towards each other did not produce enough ambient light. I should have known this. LEDs don't behave the same way as incandescent bulbs; LEDs focus their light from the front.

But-- no worries. This snafu led me to something much much better. Ultimately--the shotgun approach is replaced with strategically placed light cans. I positioned LEDs exactly where I want the light painted.

So-- I placed one light over the organ, two over the couch (one on each side), one over the crystal globe, and one over the writing desk. All the main elements are illuminated producing a very nice effect. For the couch, I positioned the lights at angles for better coverage. Otherwise, the ceiling frame was in the way causing shadows.

Notes:

1. I am using 3mm cool light LEDs for the main parlor. I tried warm white, and I didn't like it. It was too yellow and to my eye--it muddied the details.

2. I used Evergreen tubing to help secure the LEDs, but also to help focus the light. 

3. I might still use the light box I made. It might be good for light blocking. Time will tell on that.

4. For the engine room I used a 5mm fast changing RGB LED. The LED cycles colors.

Below is an example of one LED. I still have to wire the other LEDS.

Btw. The engine room LED/assembly turned out great! I used the same tubing to focus light and you can clearly see the changing colors. Somewhere down the road I will try imaging all this so you can see. 

I need to finish wiring the LEDs and from there I might start work on the main windows. Or, I might address the exterior lighting adjacent to the main windows.

Later.

Bakster

4. For the engine room I used a 5mm fast changing RGB LED. The LED cycles colors.

Yeah, I was pondering how to get the "swirly" light colors fr the engine room, which Disney would have used a rack of overlapping "color wheels" in the studio.

Which suggests using 3-4 multi-color LEDs and wiring them so that they "fire" out of sequence to each other with different colors.  Which might want a mirror to reflect the light in the desired direction.

That blue-white LED over the organ is just right per that photo.  It has the "arc light" look of studio lighting, which gives a "movie set piece" look.

The next question will be if micro speakers are wanted to play organ notes

Which suggests using 3-4 multi-color LEDs and wiring them so that they "fire" out of sequence to each other with different colors.  Which might want a mirror to reflect the light in the desired direction.

Yeah a person could do that. I went the easy way. I can't find the link right now but it's the same color changing LED I used on the power plant in my BootHill build.

That blue-white LED over the organ is just right per that photo.  It has the "arc light" look of studio lighting, which gives a "movie set piece" look.

Thanks.  And btw. That is what I am talking about. To the human eye the light does not look that blue, if at all. The camera sees it that way. I had to PP the image and push the color temp to the warm side in order to tone it down some. It is still way off but it is what it is. I hate that about LEDs; impossible to photograph correctly.

The next question will be if micro speakers are wanted to play organ notes 

You crack me up, Capn. You keep after me to do that. The Seaview, the Icarus, the Johnny-quest Dragonfly, and now the Nautilus. Lol. But do you know what? I might consider it with this build. There is lots of room in the innards to mount a board, and it would be a cool thing to do. Maybe I could even capture some dialog of Nemo barking orders during the squid attack. 

Finally, found it. Took me 20 minutes. Sheesh.

https://youtu.be/5w9qxZCvZW8

You are becoming the master of model lighting, Steve.

Greg

You are becoming the master of model lighting, Steve.

 

Thanks, Greg. I call it luck.

Oh Boy!

 This is gettin "Verry" interesting. Your lighting effects are going to be "Viciously Delicious"!

Bakster

Well... the main light box did not work out as planned. Facing two LEDs towards each other did not produce enough ambient light. I should have known this. LEDs don't behave the same way as incandescent bulbs; LEDs focus their light from the front.

But-- no worries. This snafu led me to something much much better. Ultimately--the shotgun approach is replaced with strategically placed light cans. I positioned LEDs exactly where I want the light painted.

So-- I placed one light over the organ, two over the couch (one on each side), one over the crystal globe, and one over the writing desk. All the main elements are illuminated producing a very nice effect. For the couch, I positioned the lights at angles for better coverage. Otherwise, the ceiling frame was in the way causing shadows.

Notes:

1. I am using 3mm cool light LEDs for the main parlor. I tried warm white, and I didn't like it. It was too yellow and to my eye--it muddied the details.

2. I used Evergreen tubing to help secure the LEDs, but also to help focus the light. 

3. I might still use the light box I made. It might be good for light blocking. Time will tell on that.

4. For the engine room I used a 5mm fast changing RGB LED. The LED cycles colors.

 

Below is an example of one LED. I still have to wire the other LEDS.

Btw. The engine room LED/assembly turned out great! I used the same tubing to focus light and you can clearly see the changing colors. Somewhere down the road I will try imaging all this so you can see. 

I need to finish wiring the LEDs and from there I might start work on the main windows. Or, I might address the exterior lighting adjacent to the main windows.

Later.

 

 

 

Holy barnacles captain, I have been away playing with the grandkids for a bit and you have accomplished a ton!

The color pallette on your interior really sets the mood perfectly and your cast crystal was just the touch needed to top it all off.

REALLY like your lighting approach and your scratched can lights are a great idea that has many applications.

You have probably seen these, they have been getting a lot of coverage the last several months and I think that Aaron and Tim may have actually done a video about them as well. I thought they were really clever and can see them being quite useful to the scale model community. I am seeing them showing up on Amazon now as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QL7bwm_FqlA

Really enjoying your build

That's awesome Bakster, don't see yourself short- that's amazing work! 

Tanker-Builder

Oh Boy!

 This is gettin "Verry" interesting. Your lighting effects are going to be "Viciously Delicious"!

 

Thanks TB...

Back to the bench

The color pallette on your interior really sets the mood perfectly and your cast crystal was just the touch needed to top it all off. REALLY like your lighting approach and your scratched can lights are a great idea that has many applications.

Thanks, Gil. Probably something I should point out is this. I have the LEDs so they don't extend beyond the tubing. You can adjust that depth thus creating different lighting effects. 

Back to the bench

You have probably seen these, they have been getting a lot of coverage the last several months and I think that Aaron and Tim may have actually done a video about them as well. I thought they were really clever and can see them being quite useful to the scale model community. I am seeing them showing up on Amazon now as well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QL7bwm_FqlA

I had seen that but I completely forgot about that technology. Thanks for the refresher on that.  I have to give that more thought for the future!

Back to the bench

Really enjoying your build

I am glad. That helps me push on because I often ask myself-- why are you doing this? LOL. 

Gamera

That's awesome Bakster, don't see yourself short- that's amazing work! 

 

I worked on making the LED lead wires. This part of the build is what scares me. There are a lot of things that can go wrong if a person doesn't think things through, and even then, you can get bit. My experience wiring and running LED wiring is limited. I know enough to be dangerous, but basically, I am learning as I go. 

I am using magnet wire. I like the wire because it is flexible, and it holds a shape to how you want it. Also, I like it for its low overall diameter. I'd say, the latter is the biggest plus. You can easily bury it in an assembly. The wire has a varnish insulation that is thin leading to its low OD. Standard insulated wire eats up real-estate with its larger OD, and typically, it won't hold its shape well. Telephone wire might be the exception. The downside to magnet wire is it is fragile at the solder joint. It breaks easily if you are not careful. And that is the fear. Once I get everything mounted, there is little going back. If there is a failure, depending on where and at what stage in the build, it might be unfixable. It's use is not unprecedented for models. I have seen other model builders use it for the same reasons I noted. So, enough said about the wire.

Not completely trusting my electonic circuit knowledge, I decided to attach the leads to a proto board and let the LEDs burn in for several hours. If there is a failure, I want to know now, and not when I have them glued and the model closed up. Thus far, they are working fine.

Don't let all the wires scare you. Some of that is not actually used in my testing. I had some on the board from a previous project and I didn't remove them. Also, I should add, you can buy LEDs prewired with the resistors and or, you can get a special resister module if preferred. Many ways to skin a cat, as they say. Point is, don't let this rats nest scare anyone from lighting their own model.

Ok the LEDs are secured. I applied small amounts of CA to secure them.

I will image the interior for you in the next day or two. 

Gee when I started reading this I couldn’t even spell LED, now I know how to add wires and a battery to ‘em.

 Is this not the modeling equivalent to a cold beer on a scorching hot day?              Soo Goood!

DUSTER

Gee when I started reading this I couldn’t even spell LED, now I know how to add wires and a battery to ‘em.

 Is this not the modeling equivalent to a cold beer on a scorching hot day?              Soo Goood!

 

Hey, Duster!  I think you need some pretzels with that beer. I will get you some! 

Thanks my, Friend. I am glad you are not finding my LED detail too mundane. I know for some it may be. 

Btw.  That Beer looks good. I am having lunch with coworkers today. Something tells me a beer may be in the offing. 

Thanks for posting!

Bakster

Finally, found it. Took me 20 minutes. Sheesh. https://youtu.be/5w9qxZCvZW8

That's a spiffy effect, a few dozen notions occurred to be for use of that LED. 

Not least of which was the front nacele for spaceship Enterprise, for people building the larger version and not wanted to use the radial AM array.

Just a toe-dip in "sugar cube" speakers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXnF5Qgygug

Yeah that's awesome! 

Now I'm wondering with the cool blinky lights you could rig Nemo up a disco ball... 

"That's a spiffy effect, a few dozen notions occurred to be for use of that LED. 

Not least of which was the front nacele for spaceship Enterprise, for people building the larger version and not wanted to use the radial AM array."

That is a great idea. They wouldn't rotate but I think they would look cool!

"Just a toe-dip in "sugar cube" speakers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXnF5Qgygug"

Thanks for the link too. That speaker should be a good one to use!

I did some research on recordable audio devices and some of this is coming back to me from previous review. I am using a 9 volt supply and that sort of pigeonholes me. Most use USB voltage and or 3 volt. I don't want to get into using two supplies. I did find one or two 9 volt systems but they look iffy in terms of quality. So, I am feeling a little skeptical right now about adding audio to this. More research needs to be done though.

Gamera

Now I'm wondering with the cool blinky lights you could rig Nemo up a disco ball...  

https://www.electronics123.com/shop/br9-20-second-recording-module-with-9v-battery-connector-3100#attr=

Ok. Hopefully, these are the last images of this assembly until the end of the build.

Again-- the camera is creating a bluish cast that is not there. So, you need to imagine these without all that blue.

Below. I tried to capture a little light from the engine room and you can see some green. But-- the light changes so fast it's hard to capture. Maybe at the end of the build I will make a Gif showing the transitions.

Spectacular work with the lighting.   It's the right balance of brightness and coverage.

As for the blue cast to the pictures.  My imagination sees this,

How close it?

PhoenixG

Spectacular work with the lighting.   It's the right balance of brightness and coverage.

PhoenixG

As for the blue cast to the pictures.  My imagination sees this,

PhoenixG

How close it?

Your imagination does have it less blue but there is a shift to yellow. To the eye as not seen through my camera, the LEDs give a very clean white light. That is not to say that I don't like what you are seeing. You are seeing a nice warm light and I like that too!

I have been thinking on this and I think at some point I will try imaging the model in RAW format. The problem as I see it is that the camera is doing what cameras do. They capture the data, disassemble the image, and then reassemble the data into jpeg format in a way the software thinks we want to see it. This is where errors occur. RAW keeps the data in its pristine form. You then must rely on computer software to do what the camera is doing and sometimes, computer software does a better job. Along with that--in RAW format-- you have much more control over what and how things get changed. I will try it at some point.

Below is a glaring example of the problem. This image is from my Model T build. Look at the seatbacks in relation to the car body. Look at how the color shifted. Those seatbacks are the exact same color as the body but in the image--the camera shifted it to a darker green. I was stunned at this. I didn't notice what happened until I posted it on my T thread.

You can see that is happened in this image too.

But in this image-- it looks fine.

I think that this is most to do with LED lighting. I doubt this would happen with natural lighting. With the T-- I used my hanging bench light that is LED. It is daylight balanced but it's LED, and there is something about it that seems to fool cameras.

And that is a whole lot of stuff about cameras. 

Bakster

https://www.electronics123.com/shop/br9-20-second-recording-module-with-9v-battery-connector-3100#attr=

 

Still looks to be something to tuck into bases, rather than models.  Which clearly suggests using an IR motion sensor as a switch.  (Wonder if the them song to 20k leagues under the sea is "public domain" . . . )