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Help! Attack of the Unpaintable Vinyl!

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  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Huntington, WV
Help! Attack of the Unpaintable Vinyl!
Posted by Kugai on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 1:43 PM
Has anyone else out there had to deal with soft vinyl or rubber parts? I'm not talking about the harder stuff for figure kits or tank tracks, but something that's so flexible that the usual paints crack and flake off.

Specifically, I'm stuck on how to deal with the vinyl "sleeves" for BanDai's Griffon Labor from their Patlabor series. The molded color doesn't match the box art ( the only one in the series that has this problem ) and I need a black paint that'll withstand repeated flexing for different displays.

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww122/randysmodels/No%20After%20Market%20Build%20Group/Group%20Badge/GBbadge2.jpghttp://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/razordws/GB%20Badges/WMIIIGBsmall.jpg

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 2:24 PM
Kugai,

I built the 35th scale Alphonse and wound up making the "sleeves" darker by using thinned Tamiya semi-gloss black and gray.
I used isopropyl alcohol to thin the paint and it came out very well(I think). The paint takes a while to cure, so I would let it set for at least 24 hours. Being that it is relatively soft "rubber" you probably don't want to handle it too much. Even though its a master grade kit you still don't want to try to pose it too much either or the oils from your skin will end up rubbing the paint off!
Don't get me wrong, I still like to re-pose the thing from time to time(being that its on my desk), but just not too often!
Hope that helps!

Carlos
  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Baton Rouge, Snake Central
Posted by PatlaborUnit1 on Wednesday, December 17, 2008 11:44 AM

this is an oldie but a goodie:

Someone told me to try flexible fabric and vinyl paint from the auto store.I found several cans of it with the spray paints, and it is made for interior trim. I think the dark grey would work here. I had the same issue with my Patlabor joints, hence the reason I never finished my PL with the armor on it. Now I know how to do it.

you could also try gaming or figure paints that are water based and dry quickly, such as Reaper or Vallejo.

David

Build to please yourself, and don't worry about what others think! TI 4019 Jolly Roger Squadron, 501st Legion
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: United States
Posted by kylwell on Wednesday, December 17, 2008 12:11 PM
Yup. There are spray on pants for automotive vinyl that work pretty well.
  • Member since
    February 2008
  • From: Schaumburg, IL
Posted by SkullGundam on Wednesday, December 17, 2008 12:25 PM
I think you just solved my problem of how to paint the hoses that are all over Zakus and HiZacks.  Thanks!

If at first you do succeed, try to hide your astonishment.

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  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: United States
Posted by kylwell on Wednesday, December 17, 2008 3:26 PM

Some details.

I'd shoot some of this on a test piece before committing to something irriplacable.

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_sem.cfm

http://www.repaintsupply.com/cat_color.cfm 

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Huntington, WV
Posted by Kugai on Wednesday, December 17, 2008 5:29 PM

Holy Chao, I'd forgotten about this one!

Somebody out there must be psychotic-I mean psychicBig Smile [:D].  Thanks for the timely input.  My MG Griffon kit just came in the other day.  Now if I can just get some other kits done and decide on straight gloss black or a slightly metallic look...

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww122/randysmodels/No%20After%20Market%20Build%20Group/Group%20Badge/GBbadge2.jpghttp://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/razordws/GB%20Badges/WMIIIGBsmall.jpg

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Posted by Milairjunkie on Wednesday, December 17, 2008 7:12 PM

Do you know anyone in automotive re-finishing?

Plasticiser is used on a regular basis by these guys for painting plastic bumpers & trim, PPG, DuPont & all the other paint suppliers make the stuff. It can be added in differing ratios so that the paint will cover anything from rigid plastic to "foam" like spoilers - without seperating from the surface or splitting.

Your best bet would be ask someone that works in a bodyshop that has its own paint mixing scheme, or try someone who is involved in paint supply to bodyshops.

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Wednesday, December 17, 2008 9:33 PM

I had the same problem w/ my Phantom Labor:

/forums/890711/ShowPost.aspx

I primed the vinyl w/ Tamiya Fine White Primer, the painted it w/ Floquil Model Railroad paint. Engine Gray, I think (in retrospect, I wish I had used something darker).

It still chipped a little where the arm armor rubbed against it, but it otherwise worked nicely. As you can see, it flexes pretty well; just don't scrape it too much.

I've also used the Floquil Paints just by themselves, and they stick just about the same.

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