Help! Attack of the Unpaintable Vinyl!

I had the same problem w/ my Phantom Labor:

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I primed the vinyl w/ Tamiya Fine White Primer, the painted it w/ Floquil Model Railroad paint. Engine Gray, I think (in retrospect, I wish I had used something darker).

It still chipped a little where the arm armor rubbed against it, but it otherwise worked nicely. As you can see, it flexes pretty well; just don't scrape it too much.

I've also used the Floquil Paints just by themselves, and they stick just about the same.

Do you know anyone in automotive re-finishing?

Plasticiser is used on a regular basis by these guys for painting plastic bumpers & trim, PPG, DuPont & all the other paint suppliers make the stuff. It can be added in differing ratios so that the paint will cover anything from rigid plastic to "foam" like spoilers - without seperating from the surface or splitting.

Your best bet would be ask someone that works in a bodyshop that has its own paint mixing scheme, or try someone who is involved in paint supply to bodyshops.

Holy Chao, I'd forgotten about this one!

Somebody out there must be psychotic-I mean psychic.  Thanks for the timely input.  My MG Griffon kit just came in the other day.  Now if I can just get some other kits done and decide on straight gloss black or a slightly metallic look...

Some details.

I'd shoot some of this on a test piece before committing to something irriplacable.

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_sem.cfm

http://www.repaintsupply.com/cat_color.cfm 

I think you just solved my problem of how to paint the hoses that are all over Zakus and HiZacks.  Thanks!

Yup. There are spray on pants for automotive vinyl that work pretty well.

this is an oldie but a goodie:

Someone told me to try flexible fabric and vinyl paint from the auto store.I found several cans of it with the spray paints, and it is made for interior trim. I think the dark grey would work here. I had the same issue with my Patlabor joints, hence the reason I never finished my PL with the armor on it. Now I know how to do it.

you could also try gaming or figure paints that are water based and dry quickly, such as Reaper or Vallejo.

David

Kugai,

I built the 35th scale Alphonse and wound up making the "sleeves" darker by using thinned Tamiya semi-gloss black and gray.
I used isopropyl alcohol to thin the paint and it came out very well(I think). The paint takes a while to cure, so I would let it set for at least 24 hours. Being that it is relatively soft "rubber" you probably don't want to handle it too much. Even though its a master grade kit you still don't want to try to pose it too much either or the oils from your skin will end up rubbing the paint off!
Don't get me wrong, I still like to re-pose the thing from time to time(being that its on my desk), but just not too often!
Hope that helps!

Carlos