PL Refit, Advice needed *UPDATE*

Hi again,

   After using the search function, I'm going to try using Testors clear parts cement as a masking agent. I'll check back in and let ya know how it works out.

                                      Thanks!

Lanarian wrote:

Hi again all,    I'm finished with the subassemblies on my 1701-A, and am (almost) ready to start painting.    Have a couple of questions first tho:     1. What's the best way to mask all the little windows and glassy-bits

I've used Tamiya Liquid Mask on some of my models in the past, but have found it to be a bit hard to clean out of cracks/crevices.  Another alternative that I've seen folks use is Elmers Wood Glue. 

2. Do I leave whatever masking I use on from Primer to finish coat, or does it need to be removed and reapplied at each stage? I'm concerned about removal once the paint has dried.      And of course, any other tips/suggestions are greatly appreciated!!                                  Thanks!!

Yes, leave it on thru every stage prior to the final clear (Dull?) coat until the paint has fully cured.  I recommend taking it off prior to your clear/dull coat.  I've not yet built a 1/350 PL Refit, but have never had problems with the above method on other kits I've built  in the past. 

Yeah patience is the key.. I rushed the first PL refit that I did, and although it turned out ok, it kinda showed.. This second one, I have stop started, stop started, but atleast I am not rushing it.. It will get done, but I definately will do the small thinf properly!.. So I say, do what feels right, but dont cut corners!

Chris 

Hi all,

   Yep, I would definitely use masking tape next time (if I get a next time). I'm getting the paint and stuff off, but it's a real bear. adding some liquid (spit) seems to help loosen it quite a bit.

  Man, sometimes I really wish life had a rewind button.....

  Microscale has a mask called  MICRO  MASK !Liquid masking medium.........                             Works Great!!!!

Zoloff Tinru wrote:

Microscale has a mask called  MICRO  MASK !Liquid masking medium.........                             Works Great!!!!

Yep, but, I have been having troubles getting it off afterwards 

Did you hold your tongue at 45 degrees like I said Ed?

Chris 

Chris_in_Japan wrote:

Did you hold your tongue at 45 degrees like I said Ed? Chris

Yeup. Tried that. 

grrrrrr.. I KNEW someone was gonna ask me that...

   Honest answer? I did. But after applying all the aztecing, I just couldn't stomach the thought of applying it to all the windows too. I figured "There's just GOTTA be an easier way!!".

   So, valuable lesson learned.

   I'm currently taking a break from it. I've got several places where the paint has lifted (peeled?) either from the aztecing or from masking and miscellaneous other painting mishaps so I'm gonna let my frustration settle down a bit.

a valuable lesson learned and this Monster is a learning experience.

Best thing to do when one gets flustered is to take a break from it. At least, that is what I do 

Heya,

  Does anyone use Parafilm anymore. That is what I used to use ( I am just getting back into building again). 10 years ago ( roughly ) it was the thing to use and abuse, not sure now.

Guido

Hey Guido, Welcome to the forums & yes, some people still use parafilm. I just tried

some Frisket last night on my P-51B for the first time and it worked pretty good on the

open green house canopy. Might be good to use on this Monster Refit too!!

Mikeym_us wrote:

well as for me for the most part I am going to Aztec the saucer without the windows in place. Then assemble it later.

That sounds like a plan. at least ya wont have to worry about masking the windows I'll

probably try this since I've used the Micro Mask & have tried various methods to remove it. Tape, sharpened toothpick, Q-tip with alcohol, still had to revert to the back of a #11 blade to get it up tho 

Now once I get a corner up I'd grab it with the tweezers but, it's trying to get the corner upthat kills me!!and then it breaks after a little tug so, back to pickin' at it.  I've pretty much got it all off the Ent. D I'm working on tho

Mikeym_us wrote:

now if only they can make a unbreakable wooden toothpick. Thats my only problem with toothpicks now with the tweezers I gently use the edge to pick the edge up then slowly pull the sheet of micromask off of the window. Now as for the Refit I am not sure if I should start it before or after I start on the Reliant.

do both!!

I've got time to build both but not the space since my workspace is also my bedroom. And I think it is going to get interesting when I wire up the 30+ grain of wheat bulbs that I have (though I think I might only need 10)

here are pics of my 35 Grain of Wheat bulbs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/100_0212.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/100_0211.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/100_0210.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/100_0209.jpg

LoL I don't think I could even consider trying to light up my Enterprises!!

That just looks too dang small & confusing for me

Ed I definitely think I'll need a bigger transformer unless I can find a way for a 14 volt LED to work with a 9 or 12 volt transformer. But there are 8 green 2 red and 25 clear LED's and they are 14 volts. And I do have some bulbs I took off of my AMT Star Destroyer with fiber optics that work with 9 volts.

Cant say I have been game enough to light anything either.. The Bandai models are about as far as I have gotten with lighting!

Cant wait to see once you have it all worked out though!.. 

Chris 

Mikeym_us wrote:

Ed I definitely think I'll need a bigger transformer unless I can find a way for a 14 volt LED to work with a 9 or 12 volt transformer. But there are 8 green 2 red and 25 clear LED's and they are 14 volts. And I do have some bulbs I took off of my AMT Star Destroyer with fiber optics that work with 9 volts.

LoL... all greek to me!! sounds like you've got your work cut out for ya tho.

WB Chris!! 

ilikespagetti wrote:

Yeah I'm with Ed here, I'm having a hard enough time trying to motivate myself to wire two jumbo LED's in my T-800 Endoskull.

LoL you got more guts than I (or no brains) as I know I don't posess the skills nor patience to attempt a wiring job like that