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Working with Resin?

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  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Philadelphia PA
Working with Resin?
Posted by smeagol the vile on Tuesday, June 3, 2008 1:33 AM

For my Mg Kaempfer I want to try some aftermarket update parts.  One of them being a Resin weapon from Mecha Skunk.

 

My question is really, what should I use to glue the resin kit together? super glue? any specific kind? is there any bad kind? 

 

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Down Under
Posted by dj898 on Tuesday, June 3, 2008 1:38 AM

you can use either super glue (CA) or epoxy glue.

however for added strength it won't hurt to pin the parts as well... 

people living in glass colonies shouldn't throw nuclear stones.
  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Tuesday, June 3, 2008 1:53 AM
I have no experiance pinning, and since it is just a weapon that wont have any pressure on it at all, if anything, it will be supported by the model's hands, I am going to avoid the pinning, but thanks alot

 

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Down Under
Posted by dj898 on Tuesday, June 3, 2008 2:49 AM

In that case use the epoxy glue.

You can get 3-5min epoxy glues from the hardware store~ 

people living in glass colonies shouldn't throw nuclear stones.
  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Tuesday, June 3, 2008 5:20 AM

In lieu of pinning, you can drill small holes into each part. The super glue flows into the holes and acts as its own pin this way.

Super glue has very little shear strength. That is to say, if you glue two pieces together, pulling them directly apart is very difficult. You'll probably destroy the part first.

However, the slightest tap sideways will often cause the part to break off.

You know that old SG commercial where the construction worker hangs from a girder by his helmet? A little side-wise tap from a regular hammer and that guy would fall.

Pinning (or drilling small holes for the superglue to run into) helps to alleviate the shear problem.

As far as quality goes, pretty much any SG you buy will do the trick. I've been using the cheap stuff from Walgreen's for almost 20 years.

It works as an excellent filler too.

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Down Under
Posted by dj898 on Tuesday, June 3, 2008 7:37 PM
At first it may looks bit daunting but pinning isn't too bad~
Here are pictures of 1/12 Kamen Rider resin figure I worked on...
I used the scrap 1mm brass rod I got from the local hobby shop.
 
people living in glass colonies shouldn't throw nuclear stones.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Wednesday, June 4, 2008 12:17 PM

Eopxy certainly has more overall strength than superglue, but you have to clamp or immobilize the iems for the 3-5 minute while it cures. Now, if your parts are in places where a clamp will fit, you're in business. However, if you're left using our fingers, ou have to be able to hold them still for the time it takes to set. Also, if the attachment point is relatively small, epoxy will leave you with a lot of wasted glue.

For CA, I use Zap-A-Gap green. Thicker than tube superglue, sands glass smooth, reacts well to accelerators, such as Zip Kicker, designed with filling properties and great shelf life.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Wednesday, June 4, 2008 6:08 PM
Now, Im also looking for what kind of glue I could use to attach metal parts as well?  Would epoxy glue work for metal pieces, or would super glue be better for that?

 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Thursday, June 5, 2008 1:18 AM

Again, I just use SG. The slow setting stuff is a little more expensive, but worth it for using photo etch and metal parts.

Epoxy might take too long to cure, depending on the part. For something that lays flat, it should work. For a thin piece that sticks out at an angle, I'd use SG.

SG also gives off fumes that can cause a buildup on nearby parts, so it's best to use it before you paint, rather than after.

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Saturday, June 7, 2008 11:51 PM
I went out and got some super glue, they had epoxy but I didnt know what kind was what so I didnt get any.  For the super glue I got this Gorilla Glue stuff I have seen all over the place.  It needs alot of pressure to stick, but once it dries, the ****** sticks

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Sunday, June 8, 2008 5:38 AM

Another thing with CA glues is that they work best with very close fitting surfaces ie. smooth, flat mating surfaces. The closer the parts fit, the quicker and stronger the bond.

For example, if you take a piece of sprue and cut it so you have two flat, smooth ends, if you glue the ends together with CA, the bond will be almost instantaneous. Push the two ends together and it will be difficulat to pull them apart.

Glue the same two pieces side to side (ie along the sprue, as opposed to end to end) using CA and it will be very difficult to get them to stick, due to the very small mating surfaces. The parts need be clamped or held together until the glue hardens. In this sort of situation it's recommended to use an accellerator.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by ssgkopp on Sunday, June 8, 2008 9:30 AM

I use Wave's Black CA.  The stuff is great and sands the best IMO. For larger pieces like wings and such i use the cheap 5 minute expoxy from wal-mart or lowes. I tried the 1min stuff but didnt like it.

  Also you can use Aves Apoxie Sculpt to glue pieces but it takes a while to cure. 

 

I have fallen for resin kits so much that i have to talk myself into doing an injection kit because because of all the damn pieces they have. 

  • Member since
    February 2007
Posted by PetarB on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 9:01 PM
There's an article in this publication (link below) that may be of interest to you - in introduction to working with resin.
http://www.psychostyrene.co.uk/archive/arciss1/issue1.html
Good luck!
www.studiostarforge.com
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