Working with Resin?

I use Wave's Black CA.  The stuff is great and sands the best IMO. For larger pieces like wings and such i use the cheap 5 minute expoxy from wal-mart or lowes. I tried the 1min stuff but didnt like it.

  Also you can use Aves Apoxie Sculpt to glue pieces but it takes a while to cure. 

I have fallen for resin kits so much that i have to talk myself into doing an injection kit because because of all the damn pieces they have. 

Another thing with CA glues is that they work best with very close fitting surfaces ie. smooth, flat mating surfaces. The closer the parts fit, the quicker and stronger the bond.

For example, if you take a piece of sprue and cut it so you have two flat, smooth ends, if you glue the ends together with CA, the bond will be almost instantaneous. Push the two ends together and it will be difficulat to pull them apart.

Glue the same two pieces side to side (ie along the sprue, as opposed to end to end) using CA and it will be very difficult to get them to stick, due to the very small mating surfaces. The parts need be clamped or held together until the glue hardens. In this sort of situation it's recommended to use an accellerator.

Again, I just use SG. The slow setting stuff is a little more expensive, but worth it for using photo etch and metal parts.

Epoxy might take too long to cure, depending on the part. For something that lays flat, it should work. For a thin piece that sticks out at an angle, I'd use SG.

SG also gives off fumes that can cause a buildup on nearby parts, so it's best to use it before you paint, rather than after.

Eopxy certainly has more overall strength than superglue, but you have to clamp or immobilize the iems for the 3-5 minute while it cures. Now, if your parts are in places where a clamp will fit, you're in business. However, if you're left using our fingers, ou have to be able to hold them still for the time it takes to set. Also, if the attachment point is relatively small, epoxy will leave you with a lot of wasted glue.

For CA, I use Zap-A-Gap green. Thicker than tube superglue, sands glass smooth, reacts well to accelerators, such as Zip Kicker, designed with filling properties and great shelf life.

In lieu of pinning, you can drill small holes into each part. The super glue flows into the holes and acts as its own pin this way.

Super glue has very little shear strength. That is to say, if you glue two pieces together, pulling them directly apart is very difficult. You'll probably destroy the part first.

However, the slightest tap sideways will often cause the part to break off.

You know that old SG commercial where the construction worker hangs from a girder by his helmet? A little side-wise tap from a regular hammer and that guy would fall.

Pinning (or drilling small holes for the superglue to run into) helps to alleviate the shear problem.

As far as quality goes, pretty much any SG you buy will do the trick. I've been using the cheap stuff from Walgreen's for almost 20 years.

It works as an excellent filler too.

In that case use the epoxy glue.

You can get 3-5min epoxy glues from the hardware store~ 

you can use either super glue (CA) or epoxy glue.

however for added strength it won't hurt to pin the parts as well...