Several things need to be considered in making decisions like that. The first, of course, is the color of the prototype. During WWII the flight decks of most American carriers (I'm sure there were exceptions) were stained dark blue. I don't know a great deal about Japanese warship colors, but I have the impression that unpainted flight decks were much more common in the Japanese Navy during that period. (They did, however, have lots of markings - lines, phonetic symbols, hinomarus, etc. - painted on them, and some, at least, had rather spectacular camoflage patterns.) I have a knee-jerk reaction against bare wood model parts. (An exception might be boxwood - but I think we can rule out the possibility of any manufacturer selling boxwood parts for 1/700-scale ship model kits.) Basswood, the most common one (I think) among the aftermarket manufacturers, cries out for, at the miminum, some sort of clear finish to settle the fuzz. (My favorite treatment for that purpose is old-fashioned white shellac, highly diluted.) My longtime favorite, holly, looks great with a little stain applied to it; the grain is so fine that the stain literally makes it look like miniature wood. The danger, though, is that if you emphasize the grain of the wood too much you'll also emphasize the fact that the entire deck is made from one piece of it, rather than individual planks. That's why I have some reservations about the whole idea of using sheets of wood to make decks on such a small scale. I should emphasize that I haven't seen any of those aftermarket decks first-hand. Maybe the manufacturers apply some sort of finish to them. I have the impression that the plank edges, overall outlines, and various details are indicated with either paint or ink. If I were trying to decide how to finish such a part I'd certainly do some test shots to make sure the finish I was thinking about wouldn't dissolve the markings - or cover them up, thereby putting me back at square one. |