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Tape pulling paint up

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  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: California
Tape pulling paint up
Posted by Hogan on Monday, November 19, 2012 8:03 PM

Hi all,

I thought I had this down fairly well, but apparently not.  I am building the 1/350 Academy "HMS Warspite".  She has the camo hull with light gray and dark sea gray.  I painted the light gray first and gave it several coats since it was supposed to serve as a primer coat as well.  I then painted the entire hull with future to give it some extra strength.  I then gave it 24 hours to dry.  Today, I masked carefully so I could spray the dark sea gray.  I misplaced a couple of strips of tape, removed them, and replaced them with no pulling of the paint, so I thought I was OK.  I finished masking, painted, and then slowly and carefully began pulling off the tap.  More than 90% came off without pulling up any paint.  But what paint that did come off did so at the worst, most visible spots.  

Does anyone have any suggestions how I can solve this?  I even stuck the masking tape over my forehead to get a bit of oil on it and remove some of the tackiness.  I'm just at a loss.  And trying to brush paint a ship of this size just won't look at all good. 

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Bob

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, November 19, 2012 8:20 PM

DeadI'm truly sorry for this, as I've had it happen too and it can ruin your day.

Fixing it from here usually requires a strip and repaint.

Sort of in order, my thoughts. Primer and paint are two different things. Using multiple coats of the same thing ensures that the two will bond together really well, in this case better than to plastic. Of course exposing primer with tape isn't so great either. I've gone to always using lacquer or enamel primers, regardless of the color coats. For those I tend to use enamels too but it's usually Tamiya primer with Humbrol or Testors or WEM over it. Other spray can primers are ok, but controlling the thickness of the coat can get dicey.

Did you wash the parts well?

I let my paint coats dry a minimum five days, to a week.

What tape did you use? I find that Tamiya or the blue stuff with the orange paper core.

I hope she does ok at the ship hospital!

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, November 20, 2012 9:18 AM

I certainly agree with everything that GMorrison said, but will add a couple of things.

I use enamels, so drying time is important. I built a drying box that heats the air going into a chamber where the model (or part) sits.  This helps speed drying time.  Temp shouldn't go TOO high for plastics- mine runs just a shade over 100F.  For acrylics or lacquer, drying time is much shorter so a dryer is not ordinarily needed.

Most styrene kit mfgs have eliminated bad mold release oils that require washing, but some still do. I typically do not wash styrene parts these days unless I do have adhesion problems, which happens rarely.  But then, I do use a pretty aggressive primer. I use Krylon primer.  But, I always wash resin parts.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Lyons Colorado, USA
Posted by Ray Marotta on Tuesday, November 20, 2012 5:00 PM

Bob,

Other than "slowly and carefully" you gave no more description of HOW you pulled the tape off.

I have found that pulling masking tape off works best when you peel the tape off perpendicular

to the run of the tape.  the operative word is still "slowly and carefully", though.

All the best

Ray

 ]

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: California
Posted by Hogan on Wednesday, November 21, 2012 9:45 AM

Thank you all for the information!! It is appreciated.  As for pulling the tape, I try to pull it perpendicular from the surface.  Given your suggestions, I think I just didn't wait long enough for everything to cure, but also, I think this particular model may be in need of some washing.  Thanks again!!

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