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Order of assembly according to the manual?

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  • Member since
    December 2012
Order of assembly according to the manual?
Posted by Riffraff on Saturday, March 9, 2013 12:22 PM

So I am back into scale modelling after being away after many years since I was a teenager, and I'm building my first ship ever. Its the Academy Titanic Centary Edition 1:400 that comes with PE parts, plus I also bought some more from Tom's.

So I have the regular Academy assembly manual, plus two more Academy manual/charts for the PE stuff, plus I also have Tom's charts. That's a lot of papers to be looking over to make sure I am doing things correctly, and kind of a jigsaw puzzle, but I like that challenge. I guess the part I question though is the original Academy manual and the order in which they show to assemble this. For example on one of the first pages you begin the assembly of the Forcastle deck (which is the front deck or nose). They give instructions to assemble about 3/4 of the parts, then the manual moves onto another deck of the ship.

Later in the manual just after they tell you to glue the Forcastle deck into the hull, they show the final pieces to glue in place such as a mast type pole, the crows nest, some cranes and ladders etc. My thougths are that it would be easier to assemble all this stuff like right now before, as opposed to after the deck is mounted in the hull. Or is it easier to mount the deck in the hull without that extra stuff sticking up into the air.

So I guess my question is should a newbie like me try and follow the manual exactly? and assume Academy knows their model better than I do. But I just think it would be less cumbersome to install most everything before the deck is mounted in the hull, plus then that deck is pretty much done before I move onto another area and I'm not jumping back and forth between decks. Maybe this is all dependant upon ones ability. Any opinions?      

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Saturday, March 9, 2013 12:35 PM

I often build sub assemblies first, out of order, as long as I don't have any fear that they will interfere with other steps or that some of the more delicate pieces will break during further assembly.

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, March 9, 2013 3:00 PM

Also, even though the masts might seem like a tight fit in their sockets in the decks, it's better to "step" them after the deck is in place so that you can eyeball it's correct position both side to side and fore and aft (raked in this case). And with a number of them, probably on different sections of kit deck, there's no way they'll line up when seen from the front or back without the ability to adjust them to line up with each other while the glue is setting. This is a good place to use solvent glue rather than CA (superglue).

I know sometimes it gets to be confusing when you start building things out of order as you'll forget what you didn't do. For that reason I usually make a photocopy of the plans and use a highlighter to cross the parts off as I go along. That solves the "wuddat?" at the end of the build when you have a sprue still containing parts.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Saturday, March 9, 2013 3:32 PM

I always feel free to "improvise" on the assembly sequence.  I usually study a few steps ahead and then decide on how to assemble the parts in question.  I have found that the manuals seem to be written by someone who has not actually built the model, sometimes.  With something as complex as a ship model, there are many ways to assemble it.  Do what seems right to  you.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Saturday, March 9, 2013 5:51 PM

Its almost always necessary to divert from the order of the instructions,they are not always the best.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Saturday, March 9, 2013 10:30 PM

Agreed.  My experience with sailing ship kits has taught me to regard the instructions as a basic guideline, but I've found that sometimes there are very consequential, logically-challenged sequences...and maybe even some that will require a re-do if followed!  Read the manual over and over until you have it memorized, then look for ways to improve it....it's likely you'll find a way to do so!

I still don't understand why my current kit's instructions tell me to rig all the yard braces BEFORE the lifts and other inner-deck lines have been belayed.....maybe it's a practical joke!   :)

GMorrison has the right idea...make a copy and edit the heck out of it! Some of my plans have notes and sketches and references all over the pages.

Cheers!

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: EG48
Posted by Tracy White on Sunday, March 10, 2013 10:12 AM

One thing to keep in mind is that kit instructions are often made more in mind with saving the manufacturer paper than walking the modeler through a good sequence. Quite frankly, the build order is often quite stupid and apt to increase frustration, not decrease it.

As a general rule, it's best to build the core first, then add the fragile stuff. Particularly if you've going to be doing a lot of puttying and sanding, why would you want fragile davits in place that you can accidentally break?

For ships, I have an "up and out" philosophy. Start at the bottom, work your way up, adding parts, then out. Put the centerline guns on before the outboard guns, so that you're not reaching OVER the fragile parts as often. The practical flow of this is to build the hull first (if it has separate pieces), then the main deck (sans any detail pieces), then superstructure assemblies, etc.. If there are prop shafts and rudders, I usually leave those off until later as well, at least until the superstructure is down and I'm not doing as much manhandling.

Masts, even though they are generally on the center line, I usually leave closer to last, because they're larger and more prone to damage.

So for Titanic (I don't know the exact kit  you're building, but I've built a couple of the older Revell kits), I would start with the hull and just add the decks without details unless you need to put them on before another deck goes in place. Leave the cranes, boats, stairs, etc., off until all of the decks are in place. Mount the stacks, then start on the smaller details.

Tracy White Researcher@Large

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, March 10, 2013 10:46 AM

One thing I do before actually starting each kit is to do a build in my mind.  I start by reading the procedure as in the instructions and visualize how well each step can be performed as per instructions.  Then I can see where I need to follow the instructions and where I may have to deviate from them.

Biggest problem is that I truly believe the manufacturers do not believe the majority of builders PAINT their models, so the biggest concern is that in following the kit instructions many parts may be very difficult to paint.  So I find that figuring which parts need to be painted individually and which parts are painted as an assembly is the main thing that drives many deviations to the kit sequences.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2012
Posted by Riffraff on Sunday, March 10, 2013 6:46 PM

Thanks everybody! Lots of great points, tips, and information that a guy like me can use.

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