Order of assembly according to the manual?

Thanks everybody! Lots of great points, tips, and information that a guy like me can use.

One thing I do before actually starting each kit is to do a build in my mind.  I start by reading the procedure as in the instructions and visualize how well each step can be performed as per instructions.  Then I can see where I need to follow the instructions and where I may have to deviate from them.

Biggest problem is that I truly believe the manufacturers do not believe the majority of builders PAINT their models, so the biggest concern is that in following the kit instructions many parts may be very difficult to paint.  So I find that figuring which parts need to be painted individually and which parts are painted as an assembly is the main thing that drives many deviations to the kit sequences.

One thing to keep in mind is that kit instructions are often made more in mind with saving the manufacturer paper than walking the modeler through a good sequence. Quite frankly, the build order is often quite stupid and apt to increase frustration, not decrease it.

As a general rule, it's best to build the core first, then add the fragile stuff. Particularly if you've going to be doing a lot of puttying and sanding, why would you want fragile davits in place that you can accidentally break?

For ships, I have an "up and out" philosophy. Start at the bottom, work your way up, adding parts, then out. Put the centerline guns on before the outboard guns, so that you're not reaching OVER the fragile parts as often. The practical flow of this is to build the hull first (if it has separate pieces), then the main deck (sans any detail pieces), then superstructure assemblies, etc.. If there are prop shafts and rudders, I usually leave those off until later as well, at least until the superstructure is down and I'm not doing as much manhandling.

Masts, even though they are generally on the center line, I usually leave closer to last, because they're larger and more prone to damage.

So for Titanic (I don't know the exact kit  you're building, but I've built a couple of the older Revell kits), I would start with the hull and just add the decks without details unless you need to put them on before another deck goes in place. Leave the cranes, boats, stairs, etc., off until all of the decks are in place. Mount the stacks, then start on the smaller details.

Agreed.  My experience with sailing ship kits has taught me to regard the instructions as a basic guideline, but I've found that sometimes there are very consequential, logically-challenged sequences...and maybe even some that will require a re-do if followed!  Read the manual over and over until you have it memorized, then look for ways to improve it....it's likely you'll find a way to do so!

I still don't understand why my current kit's instructions tell me to rig all the yard braces BEFORE the lifts and other inner-deck lines have been belayed.....maybe it's a practical joke!   :)

GMorrison has the right idea...make a copy and edit the heck out of it! Some of my plans have notes and sketches and references all over the pages.

Cheers!

Its almost always necessary to divert from the order of the instructions,they are not always the best.

I always feel free to "improvise" on the assembly sequence.  I usually study a few steps ahead and then decide on how to assemble the parts in question.  I have found that the manuals seem to be written by someone who has not actually built the model, sometimes.  With something as complex as a ship model, there are many ways to assemble it.  Do what seems right to  you.

Also, even though the masts might seem like a tight fit in their sockets in the decks, it's better to "step" them after the deck is in place so that you can eyeball it's correct position both side to side and fore and aft (raked in this case). And with a number of them, probably on different sections of kit deck, there's no way they'll line up when seen from the front or back without the ability to adjust them to line up with each other while the glue is setting. This is a good place to use solvent glue rather than CA (superglue).

I know sometimes it gets to be confusing when you start building things out of order as you'll forget what you didn't do. For that reason I usually make a photocopy of the plans and use a highlighter to cross the parts off as I go along. That solves the "wuddat?" at the end of the build when you have a sprue still containing parts.

I often build sub assemblies first, out of order, as long as I don't have any fear that they will interfere with other steps or that some of the more delicate pieces will break during further assembly.