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1/350 DML USS Livermore screw up

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  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: NE Oklahoma
1/350 DML USS Livermore screw up
Posted by Allen109 on Thursday, February 27, 2014 2:16 PM

Alright,I messed up.Bad. 

In my attempt to drill out the supports for the prop shafts(cause I wanted to replace the shafts with metal that wasn't warped,versus trying to straighten the plastic ones) I managed to blow out the the plastic with the drill bit I was using.

I went to my LHS in a attempt to find metal tubing that would work,and am currently looking at plastic replacements. Finding a matching inner diameter isn't a problem,but all the outer dimensions are too large.

Already missed my deadline for fixing this in time for our local contest.

Any ideas?

  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by ddp59 on Thursday, February 27, 2014 4:52 PM

if inner diameter is correct but outside is to big then turn it down with a coarse file & a drill to be used as a lathe. did that for the capstans on my 1/426 pennsylvania rebuild.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, February 27, 2014 4:56 PM

One thing you could try.

Extruded plastic shapes will keep their shape when you heat and stretch them. Square rod stays square, tubes stay tubes etc.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, February 28, 2014 9:12 AM

Why do the shafts have to be tubing? Why not rod?  Piano/music wire is a good color for shafts and comes in a lot of sizes.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Friday, February 28, 2014 9:34 AM

Don, I believe he's talking about the strut/support for the prop shaft, which needs to be hollow, not the shaft itself.

Allen, check out the listing here http://store.spruebrothers.com/category_s/2053.htm and look under the description "micro brass tube" to see if there's a suitable size.

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: NE Oklahoma
Posted by Allen109 on Friday, February 28, 2014 10:53 AM

Don, I believe he's talking about the strut/support for the prop shaft, which needs to be hollow, not the shaft itself.

Phil_H- Exactly. The shafts will be metal rod; I'm using piano wire(?) that is .047 inches.

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: NE Oklahoma
Posted by Allen109 on Friday, February 28, 2014 10:53 AM

I will be checking those out.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, February 28, 2014 1:34 PM

Thing about piano wire is it's steel, so it will rust if you don't clean it and clear coat it.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: NE Oklahoma
Posted by Allen109 on Friday, February 28, 2014 3:36 PM

GMorrison- Even if I paint over it? The hull red I'm using is Tamiya (acrylic).

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Sunday, March 2, 2014 3:45 PM

Allen .

It's been my experience that the shafts were painted with primer and the same color as the ships bottom , OR they were steel with a sprayed on anti-corrosive .Tamiya paints Don't work well as a primer on steel .

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: NE Oklahoma
Posted by Allen109 on Monday, March 3, 2014 10:22 AM

tankerbuilder- should I use an enamel/lacquer to prime, or will MM Acryl be sufficient?

  • Member since
    July 2008
Posted by ModelWarships on Monday, March 3, 2014 10:22 AM

Allen send your address. I have quite a few spares for those kits. My email is cadman@modelwarships.com

Timothy Dike

Owner and founder

ModelWarships.com

  • Member since
    July 2008
Posted by ModelWarships on Tuesday, March 11, 2014 7:03 PM

Found your email. It will go out Saturday.

Timothy Dike

Owner and founder

ModelWarships.com

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: NE Oklahoma
Posted by Allen109 on Thursday, March 13, 2014 11:25 AM

Much appreciated.

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