1/350 DML USS Livermore screw up

Much appreciated.

Found your email. It will go out Saturday.

Allen send your address. I have quite a few spares for those kits. My email is cadman@modelwarships.com

tankerbuilder- should I use an enamel/lacquer to prime, or will MM Acryl be sufficient?

Allen .

It's been my experience that the shafts were painted with primer and the same color as the ships bottom , OR they were steel with a sprayed on anti-corrosive .Tamiya paints Don't work well as a primer on steel .

GMorrison- Even if I paint over it? The hull red I'm using is Tamiya (acrylic).

Thing about piano wire is it's steel, so it will rust if you don't clean it and clear coat it.

I will be checking those out.

Don, I believe he's talking about the strut/support for the prop shaft, which needs to be hollow, not the shaft itself.

Phil_H- Exactly. The shafts will be metal rod; I'm using piano wire(?) that is .047 inches.

Don, I believe he's talking about the strut/support for the prop shaft, which needs to be hollow, not the shaft itself.

Allen, check out the listing here http://store.spruebrothers.com/category_s/2053.htm and look under the description "micro brass tube" to see if there's a suitable size.

Why do the shafts have to be tubing? Why not rod?  Piano/music wire is a good color for shafts and comes in a lot of sizes.

One thing you could try.

Extruded plastic shapes will keep their shape when you heat and stretch them. Square rod stays square, tubes stay tubes etc.

if inner diameter is correct but outside is to big then turn it down with a coarse file & a drill to be used as a lathe. did that for the capstans on my 1/426 pennsylvania rebuild.