Primer Poll

the Baron

Another problem with the automotive primer is that I've had a couple cans where the can got clogged--not the nozzle itself, but at the point where the nozzle gets inserted.  It's happened with over half the paint left, and I've had to pitch those cans.  That eliminated the advantage of the low price.

One thing to watch with modern spray cans-  in addition to cleaning the nozzle, by inverting can and discharging for a few seconds, you must replace the cap as soon as possible.  Nowadays the caps seem to have the section that covers the nozzle seal airtight. I have had several cans go bad when I neglected to replace the cap promptly.

1) I prefer to airbrush on primer due to far superior control.

2) I have yet to decant any rattle can stuff, but would like to do so one of these days

3) I have used and prefer (in order):1. Humbrol primer from the tin; 2. Mr. Surfacer ; 3. Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer. All have worked well for me.

I use Krylon flat white in the rattler.

I recently had a bad experience with Humbrol enamel over Tamiya primer.

Thx everybody. Seems no one air brushes it!

Dupli-Color Sandable primer, Grey. Rattlecan.

Jim 

I use Mr Surfacer 1200 or Tamiya Extra Fine,both directly from the rattlecan

Tamiya rattle cans and some "Games Workshop" rattle cans I still have from when Tamiya paints had import problems into the US. Sometimes Mr. Surfacer.

I have used automotive primer, usually WalMart's store brand, until recently.  That  was mostly for cost concerns--it covered decently, and a can lasted pretty long, for the low price.  I would use light or medium grey, or rust red, depending on the subject.  However, I have recently bought a can of Tamiya primer, and I may start using it exclusively for all scale models, despite the price.  I like the fine grain of the surface, very smooth but with good "tooth", and not to thick.  That was a problem with automotive primers--they can go on thick, if you're not careful.  And the Tamiya primer covered pretty well, too, so I think the little can will last over more projects than I though.

Another problem with the automotive primer is that I've had a couple cans where the can got clogged--not the nozzle itself, but at the point where the nozzle gets inserted.  It's happened with over half the paint left, and I've had to pitch those cans.  That eliminated the advantage of the low price.

I haven't used the airbrush to apply primer.  I do want to test using the finer grades of Mr Surfacer as a primer, though, and that would be applied with the airbrush.

I use Tamiya neutral gray acrylic cut with 90% isopropyl alcohol through my airbrush.(Paasche Vl)Works great every time.

Thx. Any others?

I use Krylon primer. Rattle can.  I use the standard gray primer except where the major finish color is either white or yellow. Krylon offers a white primer which I use in those cases.

I learned about Krylon primer from the old Usenet newsgroup rec.models.scale for those of you who remember newsgroups.

Hokey,

I use Tamiya extra fine primer from a rattle can on my models.  I have not decanted the primer.... Yet.... I haven't had any issues so far.

Steve