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Tips for removing and using the 1/700 North Star naval figures?

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  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Tips for removing and using the 1/700 North Star naval figures?
Posted by mfsob on Friday, January 29, 2016 7:54 PM

As if 1/700 shipbuiding isn't painful enough ... I recently got some of the North Star three-dimensional resin naval figures. I never have much luck 'bulking up" the usual flat PE people, and thought this would be better.

Well ... first off, I can't figure out how to get these very densely backed guys off of the pour stub. They are all in a little square and the stub is curved to boot! I'm afraid if I dive in with my Xacto knife I'll end up with a lot of useless bits and pieces. I think I can use Blue Tack or something similar to hold them up while I paint them. If I get that far.

Anyone have any experience with these guys?

 

  • Member since
    September 2013
  • From: San Antonio, Texas
Posted by Marcus McBean on Friday, January 29, 2016 8:29 PM

I find a thin saw works best whenever there isn't much room between part and sprue.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, January 29, 2016 9:08 PM

Can you please post a photo? It may be file work to just thin the sprue down to nothing.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2016
  • From: Fremont, California
Posted by Kevin Ma on Friday, January 29, 2016 9:16 PM

hi....

I just signed up because I am considering purchasing the revell bismarck 1/350

I want to add PE(especially railing), wooden deck, brass gun barrels, and some resin parts

I am considering buying them together seperatly. It should cost me around $200 or so.......

should I just buy the 1/350 Pontos models bismarck 1941 detail upgrade set for revell. It seems that they are the same.......

What most worries me the most is that if I buy the Pontos detail upgrade set, I wouldn't be able to paint it. Anyone who has used Pontos detail upgrade set please help

$_35.JPG (300×180)

this is the detailed set but I want it to look as if it was at its final sortie

I want the ship to look like this......

 

P.S. A heads up on my experiance- built a few 1/700 ship models, a few gundam models (1/100), a few airplane models (forgot the scale)

thanks

Imperial Japanese Navy (IJN)

On bench:

Revell 1/350 Bismarck

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Saturday, January 30, 2016 12:00 PM

Here's a picture, which makes things look easier than they really are becuase it's sooooooooo magnified:

My sprue has a very noticeable inward curve to it. I'm thinking of soaking it in hot water to try and flatten it out, but I don't think there's enough room for a sawblade in there, even my ultra-thin JLC.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, January 30, 2016 12:14 PM

Great photo.

I think the way to go is to rub the thing back and forth over a flat piece of sand paper.

You migh try cutting it in half to reduce the curl.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Sunday, January 31, 2016 11:26 AM

Those little guys really are amazing. I'm not sure my 65-year-old eyeballs could cope with them.

It looks like those attachment points are mighty thin. I'm wondering if the figures could be sliced off with a razor blade. And maybe a way to deal with the "sprues" left on the feet would be to drill holes for them in the deck. That would make the glue joints sturdier; if the sailors are attached with nothing but a tiny dot of adhesive, it seems like any little jar or vibration would shake them loose.

All this is speculation; I've never worked with any parts remotely resembling these.

That such guys can be bought at all should be a reminder of the unbelievably sophisticated detail that's become feasible for small-scale ship models. We really are living in a golden age of scale modeling.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wyoming Michigan
Posted by ejhammer on Sunday, January 31, 2016 7:36 PM

Looked on http://www.northstarfigures.com/ for naval figures but didn't find those. What is the stock number or isn't this the correct North Star?

 

EJ

Completed - 1/525 Round Two Lindberg repop of T2A tanker done as USS MATTAPONI, USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa Dec 1942, USS Yorktown 1/700 Trumpeter 1943. In The Yards - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa 1945, USS ESSEX 1/700 Dragon 1944, USS ESSEX 1/700 Trumpeter 1945, USS ESSEX 1/540 Revell (vintage) 1962, USS ESSEX 1/350 Trumpeter 1942, USS ESSEX LHD-2 as commissioned, converted from USS Wasp kit Gallery Models. Plus 35 other plastic and wood ship kits.

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Sunday, January 31, 2016 11:44 PM

Here's a link to the relevant page on the Freetime Hobbies website: http://freetimehobbies.com/searchresults/?search_query=1%2F700+north+star+figures&Search= .

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wyoming Michigan
Posted by ejhammer on Monday, February 1, 2016 8:50 AM
Thank you. EJ

Completed - 1/525 Round Two Lindberg repop of T2A tanker done as USS MATTAPONI, USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa Dec 1942, USS Yorktown 1/700 Trumpeter 1943. In The Yards - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa 1945, USS ESSEX 1/700 Dragon 1944, USS ESSEX 1/700 Trumpeter 1945, USS ESSEX 1/540 Revell (vintage) 1962, USS ESSEX 1/350 Trumpeter 1942, USS ESSEX LHD-2 as commissioned, converted from USS Wasp kit Gallery Models. Plus 35 other plastic and wood ship kits.

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: 37deg 40.13' N 95deg 29.10'W
Posted by scottrc on Monday, February 1, 2016 9:29 AM

mfsob

Here's a picture, which makes things look easier than they really are becuase it's sooooooooo magnified:

My sprue has a very noticeable inward curve to it. I'm thinking of soaking it in hot water to try and flatten it out, but I don't think there's enough room for a sawblade in there, even my ultra-thin JLC.

 

You have some surgery there.  I was thinking that you are correct in heating up the array and taking the warp out.  Once its flat, I would sand the base to the point that its thin enough to cut the guys out and then finish sanding the leftover base material off their feet.  

Or I'd punt and put a slab of tape on their heads and put the whole a array on the belt sander and sand the base off in one step.  But that sounds risky, might have little guys everywhere if the tape gives way.

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Monday, February 1, 2016 12:00 PM

*laughs at having little guys everywhere* My scenario is that I end up with a lot of guys cut off at the knees. Sometimes I think 1/700 has gotten to simply insane levels of detail, especially for older guys like me.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Illinois
Posted by wjbwjb29 on Monday, February 1, 2016 12:11 PM

If those are 3d printed they should pop loose pretty easy. I have been working with 3D Models guns and find they come of the wafer easy. Try wiggling one free it should come off easy

 

Bill

On the Bench:   Trumperter Tsesarevich on deck Glencoe USS Oregon

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