Tips for removing and using the 1/700 North Star naval figures?

If those are 3d printed they should pop loose pretty easy. I have been working with 3D Models guns and find they come of the wafer easy. Try wiggling one free it should come off easy

Bill

*laughs at having little guys everywhere* My scenario is that I end up with a lot of guys cut off at the knees. Sometimes I think 1/700 has gotten to simply insane levels of detail, especially for older guys like me.

mfsob

Here's a picture, which makes things look easier than they really are becuase it's sooooooooo magnified:

My sprue has a very noticeable inward curve to it. I'm thinking of soaking it in hot water to try and flatten it out, but I don't think there's enough room for a sawblade in there, even my ultra-thin JLC.

 

You have some surgery there.  I was thinking that you are correct in heating up the array and taking the warp out.  Once its flat, I would sand the base to the point that its thin enough to cut the guys out and then finish sanding the leftover base material off their feet.  

Or I'd punt and put a slab of tape on their heads and put the whole a array on the belt sander and sand the base off in one step.  But that sounds risky, might have little guys everywhere if the tape gives way.

Here's a link to the relevant page on the Freetime Hobbies website: http://freetimehobbies.com/searchresults/?search_query=1%2F700+north+star+figures&Search= .

Looked on http://www.northstarfigures.com/ for naval figures but didn't find those. What is the stock number or isn't this the correct North Star?

EJ

Those little guys really are amazing. I'm not sure my 65-year-old eyeballs could cope with them.

It looks like those attachment points are mighty thin. I'm wondering if the figures could be sliced off with a razor blade. And maybe a way to deal with the "sprues" left on the feet would be to drill holes for them in the deck. That would make the glue joints sturdier; if the sailors are attached with nothing but a tiny dot of adhesive, it seems like any little jar or vibration would shake them loose.

All this is speculation; I've never worked with any parts remotely resembling these.

That such guys can be bought at all should be a reminder of the unbelievably sophisticated detail that's become feasible for small-scale ship models. We really are living in a golden age of scale modeling.

Great photo.

I think the way to go is to rub the thing back and forth over a flat piece of sand paper.

You migh try cutting it in half to reduce the curl.

Here's a picture, which makes things look easier than they really are becuase it's sooooooooo magnified:

My sprue has a very noticeable inward curve to it. I'm thinking of soaking it in hot water to try and flatten it out, but I don't think there's enough room for a sawblade in there, even my ultra-thin JLC.

hi....

I just signed up because I am considering purchasing the revell bismarck 1/350

I want to add PE(especially railing), wooden deck, brass gun barrels, and some resin parts

I am considering buying them together seperatly. It should cost me around $200 or so.......

should I just buy the 1/350 Pontos models bismarck 1941 detail upgrade set for revell. It seems that they are the same.......

What most worries me the most is that if I buy the Pontos detail upgrade set, I wouldn't be able to paint it. Anyone who has used Pontos detail upgrade set please help

this is the detailed set but I want it to look as if it was at its final sortie

I want the ship to look like this......

P.S. A heads up on my experiance- built a few 1/700 ship models, a few gundam models (1/100), a few airplane models (forgot the scale)

thanks

Can you please post a photo? It may be file work to just thin the sprue down to nothing.

I find a thin saw works best whenever there isn't much room between part and sprue.