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By the deep 17 ...

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  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by rdiaz on Friday, April 22, 2016 5:15 AM

That is very, very nice. Never heard of those casein based paints. Being Pelikan I don't think they will be hard to find around here. Oil takes ages to dry!

 

However, since a lot of touching up with wet brushes is required, I'm not sure this will work if acrylics are used as a base. Did you use enamel as your base color?

 

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by steve5 on Friday, April 22, 2016 5:09 AM

daniel , your modeling ability far out strips most of us in this forum , but gee I'm glad your here , I've followed your victory build for at least 2 and a half year's , and I never want it to end , welcome aboard

steve5

 

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: Ludwigsburg Germany
Posted by dafi on Friday, April 22, 2016 3:25 AM
Slowly things are starting to get the intended way ;-) 
 
I chose my 2 favourite samples and was coming from both extrems of application - carefull and loads.
 
deep17-hull_6566.jpg
 
But still this was too fooked, even though already twice reduced. The casein paint is easily to be gradually removed by wet brush, or if far too much by a wet cloth. Here the collection of paints, large brush and an inlay of a sweets box for mixing ...
 
deep17-hull_6570.jpg
 
... here taking off the paint with brush, pipe cleaner and Q-Tipp, afterwards more paint in different shades, allow extremely weeeeeeeeeell drying and taking the exceed of if necessary.
 
deep17-hull_6571.jpg
 
Funnily both samples are coming closer together. Time to start the marks of water running down the sides, easily incorporated with some fresh paint or even only a wet brush.
 
deep17-hull_6572.jpg
 
Made the marks of the scuppers, the black not only being dirt but also the often seen black rot of the surface and gaps if wood is continuously confronted with wet dirt.
 
deep17-hull_6576.jpg
 
And both trials in comparission.
 
deep17-hull_6577.jpg
 
And finally the hinges added and integrated with some shades.
 
Deep17_hull_6593.jpg
 
All the best, Daniel
  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: Ludwigsburg Germany
Posted by dafi on Friday, April 22, 2016 3:20 AM
Those new parts gave me the comfortable position to try out some aging and weathering technics on a comparable base.
 
I used casein based paint, as it is quite resistant against touching but still reworkable in a dryed state.
 
 
So I applied 4 different shades to all 3 pieces, and I had a nice variaty of results.
 
The base was a classical Revell ocher and the application was Pelikan Plaka that was applied generously and then once dried was whiped off with a slightly wet cloth.
 
Depp17_6552b.jpg
 
... looking spectacular, but mostely far too fooked up :-)
 
The good thing on the casein paint is, take a wet cloth and just wipe everything off and redo :-)
 
It prooved that the most spectacular job for me was: waaaaaaaaaaaaiiiiiiiiitiiiiing until the paint gets dry enough ...
 
more trials with the casein paint ...
 
Deep17_6560c.jpg
 
Deep17_6560b.jpg
 
...  and for comparisson another medium: oil paint diluted with original Zippo lighter fuel.
 
Deep17_6560a.jpg
 
And it looks much more realistic now.
 
Cheers, Daniel
  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: Ludwigsburg Germany
Posted by dafi on Thursday, April 21, 2016 9:30 AM

Thank you tank builder!

XXXDAn

 

 

PS: And Hourrrrrray, I am allowed to post straight and therefor reply faster and I can edit some of my writing mistakes :-) :-) :-)

 

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Thursday, April 21, 2016 8:02 AM

Hello Dan !

Welcome here , and don't worry , Your English is okay .At least you won't have to cringe listening to my German .I like your idea and have done such stuff in the past as gifts for folks who don't have room for the whole ship ! Keep us in the loop , okay ?   Tanker - Builder

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: Ludwigsburg Germany
Posted by dafi on Thursday, April 21, 2016 3:16 AM

Thank you for all the comments, very welcome!

And Steve, thank you tons for those accolades, I hope I can stand up to the expectations with my tinkering :-)

For me model making never is a straight forward process, in the german forums I was one of the first to break the iron rule: It is glued - it stays!

And so we come to the typical dafinistic approach in model making: Destruction!!!

Deep17-130230_6536.jpg

 
... that is always the bit that small boys love the most ...
 
... and yes, let´s snail around a bit ...
 
Deep17-130230_6538.jpg
 
... rebuild the rails to slightly different dimensions ...
 
Deep17-130230_6539.jpg
 
... and redoing the splitlines with the help of Dymo tape.
 
Deep17-130230_6542.jpg
 

And this led to the next step: duplication of my duplicate :-)

 

Deep17-130331_6546.jpg

 

This left me with two slidely different versions of the same area of the ship, the source of the next tests to come.

 

Cheers and all the best, Daniel

  • Member since
    July 2010
  • From: Tempe AZ
Posted by docidle on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 7:49 PM

Dan,

It is great to see you here and welcome to FSM. As usual, I love and I am amazed with your techniques. I'm pulling up a chair because I always learn some great techniques from you.

I have known Daniel for a number of years through various other modeling sites such as the German site Wettringermodelbauforum.com and Modelshipworld.com. Personally, I think everyone should check out his Heller 1/100 HMS Victory thread on Modelshipworld. It is absolutely amazing how he worked and reworked this model to fit his vision. Here is the link:

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-heller-plastic-to-victory-and-beyond/

Also, anyone interested in REALLY going the extra 100 miles on their Victory model, like it isn't a project in itself, Daniel created a number of photoetched sets for his Victory and is now selling the sets here at his site and you owe it to yourself to check out these beauties.

http://www.dafinismus.de/index_en.html

No, I do not work for Daniel but as I have said, I have admired his work for years and would like to consider him a friend. And as always Dan, your English is so much better than my German! 

Lookng forward to to your next installment,

Steve

       

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: Ludwigsburg Germany
Posted by dafi on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 2:20 PM

And Roberto, I will stoll add some pictures how a ship looked inside on another place here, just gimme time :-)

 

Cheers, Daniel

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: Ludwigsburg Germany
Posted by dafi on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 2:18 PM
Sorry not to be able to answer your questions faster, as they have to be (still?) approuved by the mods.
 
Yes it is a cast from the heller hull and the backside is just thinned to get rid of the overcast. The display started as a mere test piece that suddenly got a life of its own, leading to several twists and turns, just for the sake of enjoying the trying out new technics :-)
 
 
After the first coat of primer I left the can on the cold balcony, stupid idea, as the color got to cold ...
 
Deep17-130229_6530.jpg
 
... which I was made aware by an apart giraffe pattern on the model :-(
 
So back to zero and take down the paint with the help of a scaler. 
 
Deep17-130229_6532.jpg
 
... reworked the splitlines ...
 
Deep17-130230_6533.jpg
 
... and saw (PUN!) the results of this unexpected action. The scratching down the color left some rattling marks.
 
One needs to be able to see and realise, but these rattle marks look very much like the marks of handsawn wood, also seen on older ships.
 
As I was already looking for a long time how to differenciate a painted steel hull from a painted wooden hull, I got aware taht with the slightly uneven levels of the different planks, the different dimensions of the gaps in between the planks and the rattle marks, I am coming quite close to the look I was looking for :-)
 
XXXDAn
  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 2:09 PM

But it's really confusing because the Heller kit does not have filled gun ports.

Daniel, I think you are maybe making a diorama using the Heller side as a model for a smaller section? And you drilled those holes to remove the over casting.

Appears not to be meant to be seen from the inside.

 Neeto little belt sander! Don't breath the dust!

Interesting...

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    December 2012
Posted by rwiederrich on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 11:26 AM

I'm assuming the original side is NOT a 1/4" thick as is the test casting..the aim(It appears), is to sand off the plug backings, then add port trim so you can actually add guns in their carriages.....instead of the plug gun tips.Wink

 

Rob

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: Ludwigsburg Germany
Posted by dafi on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 10:14 AM

Sorry I did not want to confuse you too much, but yes, it is a small cutout from the hull area of the fore chains.

Fixed it on the display by a screw ...
 
Deep17-130223_6503.jpg
 
... etch parts and new rails fitted ...
 
Deep17-130223_6506.jpg
 
... and Victory´s old style timberheads being carved ...
 
Deep17-130223_6518.jpg
 
... filling the badly drilled dead eyes ...
 
Deep17-130225_6519.jpg
 
... making the chainplates ...
 
Deep17-130226_6521.jpg
 
... the channels - at least one - ...
 
Deep17-130228_6523.jpg
 
... new profiles and the hull got new planks of better dimensions than on the Heller ...
 
Deep17-130229_6526.jpg
 
... and a tad of color to see what I am doing.
 
All the best, Daniel
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 10:13 AM

Now that I've taken a more careful look, I'm sure rdiaz is right. The upper gunports are plugged in the first picture and opened in the others.

Maybe I'm just dim-witted, but I don't understand the purpose of the experiment either. But it certainly looks like the modeler knows what he's doing.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by rdiaz on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 9:39 AM

Looks like it's not part of the kit's original hull, but a resin cast. I think the holes are there to help re-cut the ports later. Daniel, what's the purpose of this experiment? Does the inside of the gun deck walls actually look like that in the real ship?

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 9:34 AM

I guess I don't understand what I'm looking at here. The gunports in the lower of the two rows seem to be plugged, as though there are going to be "dummy" stub barrels plugging the little round holes. Every example of that kit I've seen has fully opened gunports, with complete, multi-part guns and carriages. What happened?

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: Ludwigsburg Germany
By the deep 17 ...
Posted by dafi on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 8:12 AM
As my main build HMS Victory by Heller still takes a long way to go over the stages of the lower deck, I made a small side project just to fullfill my curiosity, about some of the things still to come.
 
It all started as I had a piece of formed resin from a test cast from the Heller hull ...
 
800_Victory-guss_3030.jpg
 
... and it was saying "Hy" to me all the time :-)

 

 

 

First the standards: out the scaler and eliminating the "wood"-grains ...
 
Deep17-130222_6494.jpg
 
.... thinning the backsides ...
 
Deep17-130222_6499.jpg
 
... redoing the port sills (to be seen in the middle) ...
 
Deep17-130222_6500.jpg
 
... and here the fake to be seen from the back.
 
Deep17-130223_6501.jpg
 
Cheers, Daniel
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