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My new 1/350 Indianapolis & 1/144 Snowberry Corvette both unfinished

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  • Member since
    February, 2016
  • From: Western No. Carolina
My new 1/350 Indianapolis & 1/144 Snowberry Corvette both unfinished
Posted by gene1 on Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:55 PM

 I bought this Trumpeter 1/350 Indianapolis Cruiser & the Jap sub that sunk her 4 years ago & just got around to build them. I was nearly done with the Indy & bought the new Revell Snowberry Corvette. That was a mistake because as soon as the corvette came I thought I would put the hull together & I haven't stopped yet to finish the Indy & sub. Here they are to date, both unfinished.

  I didn't want to spend the money, that was as much as the kit, for the Eduard PE, so I tried doing my own with brass wire. I used .020 for the posts & .016 for the top rail & .011 for the lower ones. I would change to .016 for the posts & .011 or .012 for all the rails. Easier & would look better. The 1/350 PE is too much for me anymore.  I always wanted to build the Indianapolis because during WW2 we were scared when we heard about it, because we thought it was the Indiana, my brothers ship. 

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 9:04 AM

They're looking great, Gene.  I am about to start on my Flower Class Corvette after recently visiting the Sackville in Halifax.  I took quite a few pictures there and will share if you need details shots.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    June, 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 9:11 AM

Hey Don !

 Would you send the whole bunch of shots to me ? I have built three of the big ones and I want the small one to be more accurate ! The Big ones were all R.C d for myself and friends .

  • Member since
    February, 2016
  • From: Western No. Carolina
Posted by gene1 on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 9:13 AM

Thanks a lot for the offer Don, but I am building mine just out of the box except for my wire rails. They are better than the kits anyway & cheaper.I haven't forgotten the marmon Wasp & am still looking.

  • Member since
    June, 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 9:13 AM

Gene ;

 Oh Man ! are you ever doing good . I would do this though . Buy TOM'S Modelworks Generic P.E.Rails and ladders for your stash . It's a good move and that way you will have what you need . Without Eduard's higher price .

  • Member since
    February, 2016
  • From: Western No. Carolina
Posted by gene1 on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 9:18 AM

 Don & Tank, I forgot to add that Brit Modeler has a beautiful build of the 1/144 Corvette. He has used all the extras & then some. He takes it from start to finish in the one long post. Took him 6 months. Worth looking at.

  • Member since
    February, 2016
  • From: Western No. Carolina
Posted by gene1 on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 9:28 AM

Tank, Thanks, I looked at Toms, but couldn't find any, but I didn.t look at 1/144 rails only. I will look again, because I could use them on 1/144 subs. I have built a lot of them. The Corvette builds nice, but a lot of the details are heavy. 

   I have 4 things going right now & I never do that. I sort of got caught up on them as I had the Imai Pirate ship going & found out the mast & rail trees were missing, so I stopped & started the Indy & the I-58 sub together. Then the Snowberry reared it's pretty head & I was caught. I lucked out & got a second Pirate ship on ebay the other day so now I will do that when I finish the others.

  • Member since
    January, 2015
Posted by PFJN on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 9:55 AM

Hi,

Your models look great.  The wire for railing looks really good and may actually be a bit better than PE because at this scale PE can sometimes look "too flat" for things like pipes and stanchions.

Smile

  • Member since
    February, 2016
  • From: Western No. Carolina
Posted by gene1 on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 11:25 AM

PJ, That is the way I felt about it. I would change the railings a little. I would use .016 for the posts & .012 for the rails. I would also glue both rails on the side instead of the top one on top. The lighter wire glues way easier than the heavier .016 on top. 

  I cut all the posts a little long & put ACC on the bottom of each one & put them in pre drilled holes. after they were dry & hardened & used a plastic height guage & clipped them to the correct ht. I straightened each one & glued the rails on. The lower rail went to the outside with a ht. guage You have to be careful not to drill to deep & go thru the hull. I do think the .012 would glue way easier to the top if you wanted . 

  Photo etch does get thin looking on larger scale rails.

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 2:38 PM

as always , your doing a beautiful job gene . love looking ay your work .

steve

  • Member since
    August, 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 6:59 PM

Nice work so far on all 3 of them.  Hope to see them as finished works in the near future.

Making mental note for the 1/144 railings for my Gato, and upscaling them for the 1/72 version.

  • Member since
    October, 2015
  • From: Quebec, Canada
Posted by SgtDannySgt on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 8:52 PM

I just started the Snowberry today as a matter of fact. My first level 5 kit so will be taking my time with this one.

Danny

Building 1/144 H.M.C.S. Snowberry by Revell of Germany

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 9:50 PM

Gene that's a swell boat, the corvette. Beautiful battleship too.

Don will have pics, I think the railing on the forecastle deck is wire lifelines strung through solid stanchions. The pipe around the various deckhouse roofs is right.

It would be nice if they'd do the earlier version, with the short forecastle, well deck and mast all in front of the bridge. Then we could model the Compass Rose. She would have been pre-war.

 

 

  • Member since
    February, 2016
  • From: Western No. Carolina
Posted by gene1 on Thursday, August 31, 2017 8:54 AM

Tank, I went to Tom's home page & in 1/144 he only had 3 bar rails with just one piece of 2 bar. I most always look at Toms before I buy. Fresh glue that sets fast is a big help. I think that ACC that i used to use would be best for brass to brass glueing. It was a fast set thin that I had little fine spouts for. I used it on PE on my ship models for railings & everything.  There are enough bigger kits than 1/350 that I want to build & they are a lot easier with my shaky right hand.

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, September 01, 2017 8:48 AM

I found an interesting problem with the railings around the main gun platform.  The kit has hard pipe railings around that gun, versus the cable elsewhere.  When I visited the Sackville in Halifax, I found the main gun had two railings.  The first, outer railing, was a cable type like the rest of the railings.  But there was a second railing, concentric with the first, on the forward part of the area, inside the outer one, that was a solid railing. I finally found a picture of the ship in service, and it does show the two railings, though the shape may be a bit different than that on the ship now.  However, it may just be a perspective problem since this photo was quite oblique.  If there is interest, I could post a picture of the main gun area I took on my visit.

The holes provided in the kit coincide with the cable type railing. I intend to drill a new set of holes, behind the existing ones, and build up the solid railing, as shown in the kit instructions.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, September 01, 2017 9:13 AM

So I just picked up the kit and a couple of books.

  • Member since
    February, 2016
  • From: Western No. Carolina
Posted by gene1 on Friday, September 01, 2017 11:31 AM

GM, I want to see your & Don's build's as you go. I know they will be more accurate than mine. What colors will you both use?

   I had intended to use plastic posts & drill 2 cable holes in each one & thread .011 wire in them, but the posts are awfully small. I could have cut .025 Efergreen rod maybe, or even .030. They would still be small & the wire would be small too. Too late. I could have drilled a hole in the bottom of each post & put .016 wire in each one to give a solid attachment with ACC. I love brass wire for everything.

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, September 02, 2017 9:54 AM

gene1

GM, I want to see your & Don's build's as you go. I know they will be more accurate than mine. What colors will you both use?

   I had intended to use plastic posts & drill 2 cable holes in each one & thread .011 wire in them, but the posts are awfully small. I could have cut .025 Efergreen rod maybe, or even .030. They would still be small & the wire would be small too. Too late. I could have drilled a hole in the bottom of each post & put .016 wire in each one to give a solid attachment with ACC. I love brass wire for everything.

 

I have been wrestling with this problem too.  I am going to be looking for metal cast stanchions of the right height, but I fear they will be too pricey to replace all the cable stanchions.  I hope with fine enough thread, and painting the knot on the post, it will look okay.  I know I cannot drill those posts accurately enough to retain their strength.

BTW, I will not be starting my build before November.  And, a new issue has come up.  I am going to do the Sackville, and notice that the hull and bulwark transition at the foredeck does not match the kit sides.  The real ship has a much longer transition.  The aft deckhouse goes further forward. I didn't realize this, and neglected to photograph that area when I was aboard.  The bulkhead that the model places right at the the point where the forecastle ends is actually much further forward than that, but I don't know how far, and it is too late to shoot one now, as I am back in Minnesota :-(  Anyone have a photo of that area?  I couldn't locate one with a google image search.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August, 2013
Posted by Jay Jay on Saturday, September 02, 2017 10:35 AM

Gene,

That's a beautiful job so far on your Indy cruiser. I can't imagine making your own railings in 1/350 scale as I am having a hard time with even installing the PE railings on my 1.350 CL-81 light Cruiser Houston.  

BTW if you need any parts for the Indy , I would be glad to send them to you. I have pretty much a whole kit of the Trumpeter that I had to canniblize a few parts from for my Houston.  I also have a ton of extra resin parts for Cruisers that I'm not going to use if you want them. That goes for any body reading this post as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.

  • Member since
    February, 2016
  • From: Western No. Carolina
Posted by gene1 on Saturday, September 02, 2017 10:48 AM

Don, there are a whole bunch of pictures of the Sackville on the net. Just look under Sackville Corvette. Ther must have been 20 or more pics of it. Look at those pics of the build by the Brit modeler. He did a super job & the thread is from start to finish. He made a lot of changes.

  I have tried a buunch of things with the rails. I wish I had some fast set ACC. Mine got old. I used to keep it in the refrig. on new bottles until I used them. I had some for 2 years & they still worked. My last rails around the stack turned out good, I used .020 brass wire for the posts & .020 plastic rod for the top rail, & .011 brass for the lower rail. The plastic glues easier. I should have gone for the PE rails as this is slow going. I put a little bubble of white CR356 glue on the top of the posts as the real posts had a little ball ove the rails. 

  Iuse the white canopy glue to glue a lot of parts to a painted surface as it holds way better than ACC, & doesn't hurt the painted parts. I don't think you will find metal posts that small. That's why I used brass wire. Itried to drill the kit posts with a #77 drill & it is real hard to do & does weaken the posts. 

   I did look at Toms site & no 1/144 2 bar rails. 3 but no 2. You can get the Eduard rail set for $39 shipped from Engalnd. 

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, September 02, 2017 1:30 PM

I have the 1/144 kit. It's not a copy of the Matchbox kit. The wood deck is correctly only the very foward part of the ship, from just forward of the anchor windlass, back to the centerline of the 4" gun. Everything else is steel plate.

The current fit of the Sackville, as far as the deck break, looks pretty much like the model in both scales, at least to me. I'd like to see what you've come up with.

I'm going to build mine as the fictitious K49 HMS Compass Rose.

  • Member since
    February, 2016
  • From: Western No. Carolina
Posted by gene1 on Saturday, September 02, 2017 6:24 PM

Jay Jay, Thanks that's a real nice offer, but I am close to being done with the Indy & it is the last 1/350 I will build. I have been retired for 26 years and I loved every day of it. I built a ton of models, a full train layout & shot a bunch of pistols & even drew a bunch of house plans. Now I'm building ship models. t doesn't get any better then that. 

  At nearly 87, I have hopes of finishing plastic ships. By the way those were 1/144 brass rails I made, not 1/350. 1/144 nearly put me in the hatch, & I still have some more to do for the Snowberry.

  • Member since
    October, 2016
  • From: USA, NC
Posted by Pigboy on Sunday, September 03, 2017 9:56 PM

That a fine and professional job you did on that kit. Everything looks real good.


 

  • Member since
    February, 2016
  • From: Western No. Carolina
Posted by gene1 on Saturday, September 09, 2017 10:05 PM

  The Snowberry is coming along real good & has been a real fun kit. I got the bridge done today along with the lighthouse looking structure. What is that, radar? I used .020 wire for the posts & .006 wire for the rails on that part & .020 & .010 for the rails on the forward gun. The thin wire glues & works a lot easier. Always sand & lacquer wash your wire before you glue it. Works a lot better as there must be a coating on the wire that glue doesn't like. 

   I used the kit ladders & those X braces under the bridge. I thinned them by sanding & they do look better. I used a black magic marker to mark those braces on the clear part. Look good, as painting would have been hard for me. I will finish it next week & then back to the INDY & sub.

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, September 10, 2017 12:27 PM

gene1

  The Snowberry is coming along real good & has been a real fun kit. I got the bridge done today along with the lighthouse looking structure. What is that, radar?

Yep, that is the radome!  Funny what they did for radomes in those days.  Often they just left the radars out in the elements, so that lighthouse structure was kind of advanced for its day :-)

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    September, 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Sunday, September 10, 2017 1:21 PM

Gene,

Once again, stunning work!

Bill

  • Member since
    June, 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Sunday, September 10, 2017 1:34 PM

Gene;

 Hey ! Even the large one has stuff that seems heavy for the scale .All my friends thought I was nuts! Measuring stanchions and uprights to bring them to scale on an operational R.C. Version taken directly from the 1/72 scale kit  T.B.

  • Member since
    October, 2003
  • From: Canada
Posted by sharkbait on Sunday, September 10, 2017 2:13 PM
Humm ...interesting...I always thought the "lighthouse" looking thing was the HF DF ( Huff Duff ) antenna. Is not the Museum of the Atlantic and "Sackville" a wonderful visit. Too bad they can not get her engines working..

You have never been lost until you've been lost at Mach 3!

  • Member since
    November, 2005
  • From: Formerly Bryan, now Arlington, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Sunday, September 10, 2017 8:31 PM

Don Stauffer
left the radars out in the elements


With the original meter and decimeter wavelength radars, leaving the "bits" out in the spray was not a good idea, not at the high voltages required.

Also, the tuning of emitting and recieving antennae were adjusted and tuned usin very fine threads, often brass, so galvanic corrosion in salt spray was an issue, too.

Much of that was obviated by the intorduction of centimeter wavelength radar (thanks to Randal & Boot's cavity magentron).  However, priority was given to aircraft installations for CM radar.

Contemporary US radar used larger arrays, which could be tuned at the radar shack end of the waveguides.  But, required larger, precision fitted waveguides, which the RN versions did not.  But, did need an enclosure to protect the arrays.

Now, USN TACAN antennae were covered, to protect the arrays.  As were some RDF antennae.

  • Member since
    February, 2016
  • From: Western No. Carolina
Posted by gene1 on Saturday, September 16, 2017 6:10 PM

 I just did all this and lost it. maybe too long. I will do it in 2 . I just finished my Corvette, at least 98% done. It has been fun & now I am a self proclaimed Corvette expert at nearly 87 years old. 

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