Revell North Cormorant oil platform - Should I prime?

You might try the black basing technique on some of the bigger structures.  These platforms take a real weather beating out on the open sea.

GMorrison

I think it's helpful to put on finish coats over a base color that is contrasted. In fact, I really dislike kits that attempt to cast the plastic in a version of the finish color.

As far as using the finish enamel as a primer, all well and good except that it means more paint color setups and changes. 

 

Understood.  Fortunately or unfortunately this kit is molded in colors close to the finished colors.  I might prime the larger pieces that I had to clean up and skip the primer on others.  I'm first going to compare small corrugated metal walls, one primered and one not.  I'm also going to compare pieces of railing that way.  I think the railings look too "thick".  So I might, as I mentioned, go all P/E on the railings.

Thanks, just the kind of feedback I need.

Dave

I think it's helpful to put on finish coats over a base color that is contrasted. In fact, I really dislike kits that attempt to cast the plastic in a version of the finish color.

As far as using the finish enamel as a primer, all well and good except that it means more paint color setups and changes. 

Wilbur Wright

There is no need to prime if you are using flat MM  enamels.  That is your primer.  If you see anything rough after first coat you can sand and then go back and hit it again with the same color.

I have this big kit. It should be a lot of fun.  GMM makes 1/200th P/E railings if you're interested.

If I were going to build this kit  I would prime with MM enamels then use Tamiya acrylic for the yellow, rust red color , and gray. In order to weather with oils.  The Tamiya is completely resistant to oil wash weathering.

 

Thanks.  I already have the P/E railings.  Probably was your suggestion. I'm still undecided on priming, but we agree on flat enamels being the primer.  I've read a lot about priming and it seems people are about 50/50 on priming or not priming.  At this point, I'm going to use flat enamels and weather (wash) with Vellejo acrylics; already have those too with all of their pigment powders and media.

Thanks for your time.

Keep the replies coming.

Dave

Hi;

 I second Bill on this one . Use Tamiya White . T.B. After Prepping I have used Clear Semi Gloss or Flat as a primer and finish coat over colored plastic parts if they were close to the color needed .Weathering will solve  any of the problems .

There is no need to prime if you are using flat MM  enamels.  That is your primer.  If you see anything rough after first coat you can sand and then go back and hit it again with the same color.

I have this big kit. It should be a lot of fun.  GMM makes 1/200th P/E railings if you're interested.

If I were going to build this kit  I would prime with MM enamels then use Tamiya acrylic for the yellow, rust red color , and gray. In order to weather with oils.  The Tamiya is completely resistant to oil wash weathering.

Tamiya white.

Cadet Chuck

Generally, I like to prime everything, because it gives a good surface for your color coat to "stick" to, as well as filling in small imperfections such as light scratches.

I have found no loss of detail when using something like Tamiya Fine Scale primer or other "fine" primers, such as Mr. Surfacer.  Just don't use hardware store primers.

 

Thanks. I use Tamiya Fine Scale primer now.

Generally, I like to prime everything, because it gives a good surface for your color coat to "stick" to, as well as filling in small imperfections such as light scratches.

I have found no loss of detail when using something like Tamiya Fine Scale primer or other "fine" primers, such as Mr. Surfacer.  Just don't use hardware store primers.