Tamiya paint disaster

Round bottle (acrylic) or rectangular bottle (enamel) as we have both in Australia?

The acrylic is difficult to brush cleanly, as it tends to lift previously applied, semi-dry paint. If brush painting, add one part X-20A thinner to three parts paint. It'll lay down a lot smoother, but avoid brushing over previously applied paint as it will rip it up in huge ugly lumps. Always work to a wet edge, don't overpaint.

The acrylic paint does contain water, but it's more alcohol based. It can be thinned to a slight degree with water, but works better with the X-20A thinner. 

If you want to remove dried acrylic paint, you don't need anything as harsh as oven cleaner. Metho will clean it up easily.

Used the round bottle stuff, never again. What you describe is exactly what happened, many thanks for your advice. Back to Humbrol or Model Master.

I had the same problem with Tamiya "Smoke". Overbrushing caused a huge mess.

The paint is not water based.

Aha !

Now I can say ." You see why I don't like Tamiya Acrylics "? I have used many paints over these long years and as to brushability , Tamiya is the absolute worst ! 

 They seem to assume everyone owns an airbrush ! When in the past I used acrylics I use one of the best I ever found for brushing . Polly - S ! 

 Left NO brushmarks either - Right out of the Bottle !

Tanker - Builder

Left NO brushmarks either - Right out of the Bottle !

Tamiya acrylics from the first few batches were like that too, from 1982-ish up to about '85. They dried a bit slower, self-levelled beautifully (brush marks just disappeared) and didn't pull-up. Then the formula changed (different OEM?) and we've been stuck with the present one ever since.

Where I first started modeling again about a year ago I used tamiya acrylic and I fought with them for quite awhile now I have no problems at all brush painting them.l don' own a air brush and never will .I use x20a and a self leveling thinner.Never have a problem.

Use Vallejo (not model air). They brush beautifully.

armor 2.0

Where I first started modeling again about a year ago I used tamiya acrylic and I fought with them for quite awhile now I have no problems at all brush painting them.l don' own a air brush and never will .I use x20a and a self leveling thinner.Never have a problem.

 

Tamiya acrylic  paint will roll up when brush painting.  It's not meant to be brush painted on any sizable surface.

I used Testors Model Master "US marine sand" or MM "Sand" enamel on the deck of my CSS Alabama.

Humbrol  enamel is the best brush paint.  It's why the people who do noting but figures use it.

The Testors enamel should be avialable and work well for you.

Lots of opinions lol. What works best with Vallejo model air? Or is it best sprayed out of the bottle?

Model Air is best sprayed but it can be brushed with varying success. It's better than Tamiya.

Model Air series is specifically formulated for airbrushing, although I usually add a bit of Airbrush flow improver #71.562 to it. Model Color series is for brushing. I add a drop or two of Retarder # 70.597 to a puddle of paint giving it just a bit more "open" time. I always use the same brand thinners and stuff for the brand I'm using. A couple times I've used generic thinners, and regretted it. I like Vallejo stuff. That said, I still spray military ships using White Ensign enamels, the color call-outs are spot on and they both brush and spray beautifully.