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On my 1:350 Lord Nelson build, I have been adding canvas to the railings on bridge and other upper decks. I started with my old technique with one ply of Kleenex. Brush on thinned white glue to railing, set a strip of the facial tissue over it, then more white glue over the tissue. It is very labor intensive- once that tissue gets wet you can hardly move it, it shrivels and tears so easily. I thought there must be a better way.
I use that window material a lot, like Micro Scale Kristal Klear. On ships I have used it for glazed portholes, and small windows. Anyway, the openings in the railings look small enough for the easy application of that stuff. It turned out to be the case. I was already about half done- the remaining railings went very fast. Now, the material dries transparent, but I used the same paint I finished the other canvas areas with, and they look great- better than the Kleenex ones, where I cannot always trim it perfectly around the railings. The Kristal Klear does not build up outside of the railings. I will post some pictures when I take some.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
I long ago settled on the same technique - only using ordinary thinned white glue - for anything in the 1/200 - 1/700 range. With a little experience you can even 'wrap' it around open corners, by doing a little filament on the corner first, letting it harden, then applying as usual.
A real 'plus' (besides the easy clean-up or corrections, if necessary) is the way it conforms to the railing structure like wind-blown canvas. A little accent dry-brushing really makes it 'pop' appearance-wise.
Greg
George Lewis:
Thanks Don, I haven't had the occasion to put on canvas but I will remember that when I do. I want to build an IJN battleship which have a lot of canvas.
I do use a similar technique (Mr. Dissolved Putty) for blast bags though.
Steve
Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.
http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/
Hi,
I've never tried this, but would it maybe be possible to use white tissue paper and airplane dope, like on the old Guillows balsa models, at least as a starter layer?
Regards
Pat
PFJN Hi, I've never tried this, but would it maybe be possible to use white tissue paper and airplane dope, like on the old Guillows balsa models, at least as a starter layer? Regards Pat
I'll reply to both Greg and Pat together. The use of white glue to fasten tissue to framework in flying models is now common, instead of dope. I had been thinking of going that way. However, finding jap tissue, or any model airplane covering tissue is getting hard. I already keep a supply of that type of glue/material on hand.
I find the Kristal Klear and other such materials to be a bit easier to use than white glue. It is thicker, rather than thinner than ordinary white glue. I find white glue easy to thin, hard to thicken.
I have used Liquidtex Acrylic gel not only for water, but for windows, blast bags, and other mixed shapes. Your right, its much easier to use the gels than white glue.
Grabbed a quick shot yesterday.
The top two railings were covered with single ply of facial tissue. The bottom one was the Kristal Klear.
The back of the railing does show better with the facial tissue- but, brings up the question, was the canvas only on the outside of the railing, or were those draped over to cover both sides of railings?
One side only, at least since the late 70s.
I say this based on what I saw on every ship I ever sailed on, or visited (USCG and USN) during my time in the Coast Guard.
Webmaster, Marine Modelers Club of New England
www.marinemodelers.org
That looks very nice, Don.
I prefer your tissue application.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
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