Returning modeler - first build in progress (Heller Corsair 1/150)

looking good , I was looking at this model , but it was a little too pricey for me , will be following , on your other thread .

Allright, I'll do that.

Here is a taster:

excellent job , why don't you start at the start with your next thread mate , I'm sure we would all enjoy it.

Beautiful results!

Well I think I am finished with her, for now. She is only a small model, and I am reasonably happy with how she turned out, my first model after many years.

It is a nice kit, the biggest issue is that the masts and spars are very thin and will bend and break easily. This poses some issues for taut rigging. The rigging instructions are useless, the box art is much better and certainly points the way, that plus some research has given me a fair idea of what goes where. Obviously I left off the sails, the vacuum ones look terrible and I am not yet in the game of making my own.

My next project is again a ship, but something rather different. I may post a thread when I get a bit further into it.

Jur

Liegghio

I have also read that on large warships the gun decks were painted entirely in red so that when the ship took hits in combat the gore splattered around wouldn’t freak out the surviving gun crews. I don’t if that’s true or not, it seems to me seeing your mates get splattered would be bad enough that painting everything red wouldn’t make much of a difference. Barns were always painted red because the paint was cheaper so I’ll vote for that explanation as well.

 

Not only was red oxide paint cheap, it weathered very well.

I have also read that on large warships the gun decks were painted entirely in red so that when the ship took hits in combat the gore splattered around wouldn’t freak out the surviving gun crews. I don’t if that’s true or not, it seems to me seeing your mates get splattered would be bad enough that painting everything red wouldn’t make much of a difference. Barns were always painted red because the paint was cheaper so I’ll vote for that explanation as well.

JurS,

Sorry for the confusion.

I do essentially what Don said.

PS. Anytime I see the word "share" in cyberspace, I avoid it.

Thanks Don, let me try that now:

I think that worked!

I had a look at replacing those blocks, but the lines are glued around the masthead and I don't think I could get them off without damaging the mast, so I left them. One to chalk up to inexperience!

To be honest after adding some more rigging, as in the picture above, it isn't too noticeable perhaps.

Still more to do, but I find this rigging very tiring on the eyes so I only do little bits at a time.

In postimage I select the thumbnail of the photo I want, to get the full size photo.  Then I left click on the large image.  I select, from the drop down menu, copy image location.

Then, after clicking on the image symbol in my post, the cursor should be in the source window.  I just use control-v, or copy, to paste that image location.  Then click OK.

I use the 'share' icon on Postimage and then directly paste the link here in my draft post. This causes all subsequent text in my post to become a link as well, looks like a bug somewhere.

I don't understand your method, what do you mean by 'left clicked (copy)' the image in Postimage?

I have decided I will cut the shrouds and replace the lot with smaller blocks. I just know that these overscale blocks will bother me forever if I don't do that...

JurS,

When you have left clicked (copied) the image in Postimage, do you then use the "insert/edit" icon just above the FineScale Post Body window? (The icon that looks like a rectangle with a mountain and the sun inside - just to the right of the hot link icon).

I hope you don't mind but I copied one of the above images, went to the Testing Forum and posted your image. When I click on the image it appears as it should in Postimage.

See here:

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/feedback_help_and_testing/f/43/t/180003.aspx

BTW, excellent work so far.

Progress is slow, but there is no hurry really. I've added the main mast and bowsprit, and put on the shrouds and the main yard halyard. Looking at the pictures I now think that the blocks at the top of the shrouds are overscale. I need to consider if I want to redo all that, including the shrouds, or chalk it up to experience and move on...

JurS

I also did some research on the rigging  and found quite a few illustrations of this type of vessel (mostly dhows, but I think there is a clear relation with the tartane), they all show a system where the shrouds are rigged with ordinary blocks, like this:

Yeah, that is pretty much standard for lateen-rigged Mediterranean vessels. They didn't use the otherwise standard shrouds-and-deadeyes arrangement seen in square rigs. They need to be able to slack off the lee shrouds and tighten up the weather ones every time they go about, because the lateen yard is carried outside the shrouds and not on the inside. (I strongly suspect that the yard on such a rig is not actually called a "yard" and that the shrouds are not actually called "shrouds", but it is all a bit too specialized for my tired little brain!)

You see a rather similar overhanging stern structure in xebecs as well, by the way.

Yes, it does that, but I think it is nicer to show the pictures in the thread itself. Oh well, it is not a big issue.

you only left click on direct image , and copy should show up .

By the way I tried the 'direct link' from Postimage, but that then only shows a link, not a picture. Weird stuff.

Today I had a go rigging the guns. This stuff is tiny! Without my magnifier glas-annex-desk-lamp I wouldn't get anywhere. I couldn't really model the attachment points on the gunwhales, the little brass rings I have would be far too big so I'm afraid it is just blobs of glue. Mind you, you can only see this on the close-up pictures, in real life it looks ok I think.

So that is what I will go for. The shrouds are then tied to the gunwhales with rope loops and short sticks of wood, like this:

Looking good! 

I agree that rigging the guns can be a challenge if you are not practiced. If it has been awhile since I have rigged a ship, I find I need a bit of time till I get my *** back. Even when I come up to speed again, I cannot do much rigging at a single setting.  It is tension-producing, so take frequent breaks. If it is a complicated larger ship I put it on the shelf for awhile while I build a simpler model.  However, your craft does not have the rigging of a full three master, so you may not need to take a longer hiatus.  However, with rigged ships the best advice is, take frequent breaks and don't rush things.  Also, there are specialized tools for rigging that are not part of the tool set of people who only do other genres of models.  Good tweezers are a must, and little hooks and forks are very handy.

keavdog

Cool - right clicking works.  Why did the older ships paint the gunwales red?

 

Looking good so far, jurs.

When you add the link from postimage, use the "direct link" to copy here.  Never had an issue that way.

Bob

Cool - right clicking works.  Why did the older ships paint the gunwales red?

your model look's great jurs . welcome back .

Welcome! That model looks good so far.

Welcome back to the hobby.  Nice start on a cool subject. 

That's looking great so far! I don't use an airbrush either. A decent set of watercolour brushes do me just fine. I used some careful scraping with a blunt scalpel to weather each individual plank of wood on the Black Pearl. Maybe try that? 

I can see your pictures ok, but if I click on them, it sends me to the PostImage home page.