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Parts missing on the Heller Soleil Royal model

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  • Member since
    June 2018
Parts missing on the Heller Soleil Royal model
Posted by Stick1234 on Friday, March 29, 2019 10:27 AM

I'm missing a part from the ship but when I went on the Heller website to get one there is a note: Online sales are temporarily suspended as well as after sales service. !

These foreign companies do not care about customer service. They just want to sell their products and turn their backs on you. I have the same issue with Trumpter and Revell.

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Friday, April 5, 2019 9:35 AM

The best Le Soleil Royal that I have seen on this site was done several years ago by DavidK.  I cannot recall whether or not he primed his before painting, but his work was exceptional.

I have never primed the ship. I painted mine ala Berain, who depicted his original SR in blue and gold.  Berain was responsible to Louis XIV as the decorator for his ships, and he made the first SR to represent The Sun King spectacularly.  I used the blackness of the kit's hull parts to help accentuate the wood grain.  David, however, did much better.

You should be able to find his thread on this site. You won't regret it!

Bill

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, April 6, 2019 6:35 AM

I would prime it.  There is a lot of fine detail painting that pretty much requires hand painting.  You need as much help as possible to do that kind of painting.  Use a good fine primer like Tamiya.  Won't set you back much in time, and anything to make that detail painting easier is a good thing on that kit.

BTW, I used Testors gold in the small square bottles for the gilding.  I believe back in that time they were using real gold leaf, and the Testors enamel is great for that use.  Be sure to let the primer and any undercoats dry thoroughly- several days.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    June 2018
Posted by Stick1234 on Saturday, April 6, 2019 8:26 AM

Thanks very much for the feedback!

 

Frank

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Summerville, SC
Posted by jeffpez on Saturday, April 6, 2019 8:29 AM

A agree that priming is necessary. For my aging eyes it's easier to see the areas needing hand painting when they're lighter colored after priming rather than black on black. It also helps with paint coverage so that you hopefully don't have to go back and add a second coat. The best gold paint I've found is sold at Hobby Lobby and is called Liquid Leaf - classic gold 6110. It covers well, doesn't leave brush marks and is nice and shinny. I didn't know about that paint when I did my SR several years ago and used Testors in the square bottle as Don suggested. It's great stuff.

  • Member since
    June 2018
Posted by Stick1234 on Saturday, April 6, 2019 8:34 AM

Thanks for all the info. I'll get a bottle of liquid leaf today.

 

Frank

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Saturday, April 6, 2019 9:35 AM

Hi Stick-

I'll stand with those who recommend priming, for a few good reasons.

Even if you have the version of this kit in which most of the sprues are grey, the hull will still be black.  It's very hard, and takes a lot of paint to cover black with another color, and have the applied paint color look the same as it would if it were applied over grey

To maintain continuity of colors, it's a smart choice to have a consistent base color...for example, if you paint brown paint over a red plastic sprue part, the brown will look different than the same paint over a black sprue part, or a blue sprue part, etc.

Especially for the hull, if you are using a lighter-colored paint for the below waterline (I used a light grey) it won't be very light over black plastic without applying a ton of it, and even then it would probably be super blotchy.

My Soleil Royal was the version made of several colors of sprues (red, blue, brown, with black hull halves)....I actually went though and primered every sprue (and there are many!) to get an even base color.  It took a few cans of Tamiya Fine Grey Primer.  Gun ports are a good example:  They are painted wood, and the hull is painted wood, but the ports were on the red sprues, and the hull was black...they would not look the same without a primer base.

Just my (long-winded) opinion....I hope you enjoy the project as much as I did!  And please don't hesitate to reach out to me if you have any specific questions, I'd be happy to help!  Here's the address to my previous WIP thread for it, if it helps in any way.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/163550.aspx?sortorder=desc&page=19

Many thanks to Bill for the kind words...I'm humbled. :)

Dave

 

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    June 2018
Posted by Stick1234 on Saturday, April 6, 2019 9:42 AM

Many thanks for all your suggestions! I'll be primming evrything per your suggestions.

 

Best

Frank

  • Member since
    March 2018
  • From: Chicago suburbs
Posted by Luvspinball on Saturday, April 6, 2019 9:32 PM

To see a really nice paint job on the SR, take a look at KPNUTS job here:

http://www.modelshipwrights.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=242693&ord=&page=1

Scroll about half way through the first page.  He details exactly how he got the wonderful wood appearance to his ship.

Bob

 

 

Bob Frysztak

Luvspinball

Current builds:  Revell 1/96 USS Constitution with extensive scratch building

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Sunday, April 7, 2019 8:28 PM

I strongly recommend that you remove the molded on raised waterline, which is much too shallow, and take the waterline up to the lowest wale.  This is consistent with the illustrations found in a book published in France called Les Vasseaux du Louis XIV.  It will make the hull appear much more proportionate.  Again, I cannot recommend David_K's model strongly enough.  Check it out.

Bill

  • Member since
    June 2018
Posted by Stick1234 on Sunday, April 7, 2019 8:59 PM

Thanks much for the advise.

Frank

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Sunday, April 14, 2019 4:03 PM

It is my pleasure!  Good luck!

Bill

  • Member since
    February 2016
  • From: Western No. Carolina
Posted by gene1 on Monday, April 15, 2019 6:46 PM

warshipguy is right, Davidk does the best paint work, & models, I have seen & I am 88 years old & still build. For priming, I like to use a canned spray auto primer in white. I spray the can thru a straw into my spray bottle & then thru my airbrush.. It is very thin & does not cover any details. Check it out before you use it on a piece of plastic.  You can get it at most auto supply stores. 

     I built alot of car models & primed with it & then I could actually use a lqcquer base can of car paint. I forget what brand I use, several, but as I say check it first. I have recently used it on a lot of my ship models & leave the white as a color wher e the model is white. It coners black quick. White is sometimes hard to find.

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