USS Arizona Memorial - Revell, Shapeways - 1/426:1/429 scale - by SigEp Ziggy

This is going to be one interesting Build to watch. Like what you have done so far.....Cheers mark

An excellent project!  I like that you're using the venerable Revell kit.

ddp59

Ziggy, cut all the railings off the main & upper decks when the decks are in place so not to cause a step between decks & hull. using that same model to build 17 OBBs from the Wyoming class to the Colorado class. http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=165105

i have 13 out of 17 hulls being worked on plus 3 more still in their unopened boxes.

ddp59

i have 13 out of 17 hulls being worked on plus 3 more still in their unopened boxes.

Ziggy, I built one of these back in the 1980's, exactly what you are doing. Remember that the forward turrets and their barbettes dropped vertically about 22 feet, so the back of turret two is sitting on the boat deck, but at the level of the main deck. The fore deck is not angled down, but also dropped vertically. This vertical drop is what dragged the superstructure and foremast forward, causing the collapse of that structure. The basic dividing line between major damage and minor damage is just aft of the stack. Also, you want to mark all of your salvage cuts and think about how deep they go so you can add layers underneath.     Have Fun!!! 

I just noticed; on your first post, last picture you have a red line going from the stern toward the bow, stating that they do not line up as an indicator of the bow separation. They are not supposed to line up, the bow (foredeck) is normally a level higher than the stern anyway. There is a big crack on the port side, from the armor belt down to below the mudline, but other than a multi-angle horizontal mis-allignment, the bow was not actually separated.

The hardest part of this build is determining which deck level you are dealing with at any particular point.

Not sure is another Arizona photo is helpful but the Washington DC Navy Yard has a beautiful 3D-printed model of the ship.  It was based on Laser, Sonar and Photgraphic measurements.  Model was Courtesy of Pete Kelsey.

Sorry I do not have a better profile view but you can see where the forwad half of the deck takes a decided drop.   I do have some detailed shots of the deck from directly overhead if interested.

Brian, were the measurements for this model done during your tenure?

     Nino

That project was way after my work; I was involved in the original mapping and detail project. Now, if you look close at the areas that would be adjacent to the Memorial support pilings you see that the sonar picture gets confused  so it looks like there is a big hole there. This is not the case. Also, the top of the turret two gunhouse looks like it is all chewed up. That also is not the case, as that effect is from the surface wave action. The top of the turret sides is undamaged (comparitively) and simply a long bolt flange.

I'm curious as to the approximate scale of the 3-D model. I am getting inspired to build another 'as sunk, circa 1980's', but in 1/350. The big problem, in addition to the increased detail required, is expanding that two part hull. Should be interesting.

That 3D model was done in 2 sections of 18" each.  36" total.  Guess that'll  be around 1/200 scale.

  Thanks for the update.  I have an email on the way to you.

     Jim.

Edit:  Link for Pete Kelsey about his 3D mapping for the Arizona:

https://azdailysun.com/news/local/flagstaff-man-who-led-uss-arizona-mapping-team-on-pbs/article_6f01fdba-be83-5012-9d12-829b7ec249ce.html

Working on the Arizona. 

HooYah, I did figure out my mistake about the bow section upon inspecting the profile drawing and will try to make many more ajustments. The mock-up photo was just to post my progress. Still a long way to go.

Nino, thank you for the image of the 3D model, I did not have one of the starboard side.

There are many layers needed to show the damage accurately. Plus, as she settled down, there is a list to port. I will try to copy that as well.

Progress: I am making new forward decks and working on no2 turret. I found most of the molded-on details are not to scale, I will be scratch building those still on the ship. I will be making molds of the two parts shown so I can make the number I need. I found a cheap necklace at wallyworld for $2.88 for the chain, that's 16 cents an inch.

SigEp Ziggy, here is a 'project list' for the aft / quarterdeck section;

And other sections;

And the rest .  .  . All just a guide, of course;

Please ignore the missing turret two side; I built this in the 1980's and it didnt fair well in the moves from California to Virginia and Virginia to Oregon. I repaired what I could but wasn't going to buy another model just for the turret side.

HooYah Deep Sea,

     Nice replica of BB39 at her final resting place.  Access cuts at the stern: Well Done. Most folks miss that.

Good job posting the Pic too.

  Nino

 P.S. If that is the Revell 1/426 kit, I have plenty of spare turrets, (I suspect we all do).  If you want one, let us know.

HooYah, thank you so much for the info and especially for the photos. It is great to see someone who worked with the same Revell kit. It will help a lot.

I am going to try and superdetail this project, there is a lot of photos out there, however, I will be using a yet to be determined water effect. I will model the high water mark in an effort to minimize the amount showing above the water.

I will not model the shuttle boat as too much work, but will include visitors to the memorial.

Sigep Ziggy

...

I am going to try and superdetail this project, there is a lot of photos out there, however, I will be using a yet to be determined water effect. I will model the high water mark in an effort to minimize the amount showing above the water.

....

 

Be careful if you use catalyzed resin.  The hardening process for those generates considerable heat. If you make the layers too thick the heat can melt or disfigure styrene pieces.  You have to do pours in a number of thin layers.

As for the detailing, you are fortunate in that you have the NPS drawings available. I did not have that luxury; my model was based on my knowledge of the ship and aerial photopraphs, mostly picture post cards (its surprising how much detail you can get from those!). As I said earlier, the big factor is knowing what deck level you are dealing with in any particular area. There is one area on the port side where there are three decks compressed into an area less than eighteen inches.

If there is anything on the lists that you need clarification on, do let me know. Since I've seen her up close and personal, I can help.

So, off on a tangent (which I do quite often) I was thinking about this build and trying to figure out how many models would you have to build of ARIZONA to cover the significant alterations she went through, from her original build up to recent times. I came up with eight. There are eight different 'versions' possible to build, realistically speaking, between 1916 and the present. Almost sounds like a group build idea, don't it !!  

The 'mesh' towers in 1/426:1/429 scale would be the most difficult part of that build. Maybe a different scale? 1/700 or 1/350, anyhow there are some available to build the Tennessee, I think.

Posting some pictures. I have been working on the decks and have glued the hull together. Debaiting on if I want to fix the hull near the rudder. I have been using the drawings for detail and stencils.

depends on how much work you want to do to somewhat fix the Arizona's stern. go thru my link i posted before on my OBB kitbash thread & look at the sterns of the different models not just the Arizona as almost all the same in shape. can buildup the stern at the lip where the hull dents inward but only down to where the mudline starts, not what i have done as most of that area is buried in mud so won't see it.

HooYah Deep Sea, Model Monkey says he cannot currently make 1/429 scale cagemasts. "The masts are too fragile, too fragile even for 1/350 scale which is why I don't offer them in gray resin in any scale." Sept 17 2018

WAIT .  .  . do not cut away anything else until you get the package. Lots of info coming your way. Now, as for the marks you have along the starboard side of the aft deck, do not remove anything there as there is no damage or salvage cuts in that area. There is only one salvage cut aft, and that is the one for the aft aircraft crane machinery.

You can use four of the 5"/51 "turrets" to make your 1.1" gun tubs and don't forget the director platforms aft. All of the ladders going up to the fore deck level can get cut away, as well as the angled sections on both sides of the T-shaped structure. close up the holes with styrene along the T-structure, Frame 88, and the deck. You don't have to sand off the engineering soft patch as your going to cover that area with silt texture. 

I wonder if someone at Shapeways could do cage masts in 3D.  Dstephni does some amazing 20 and 40 mm along with 4"/50 cal in 1/72 and1/144.

You can make them from 3 rings and stiff piano wire. The work gets busy, but its do-able, though I probably wouldn't try on any scale smaller than 1/350.

Carl at 3D Models Parts does cage mast in 1700 scale so is possible for larger scale.

http://www.3dmodelparts.com/1-700-cage-masts-for-big-five-colorado-tennessee-class-battleships/