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I googled "King George V PE set" and came up with this one from Scalehobbyist,a very good vendor

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/manufacturers/White_Ensign_Models/Detailing_parts_kits/hms-king-george-v-ultimate-detail-set/WEM00003519/product.php

There were many other suggestions also,give it a try.

Tojo72

I googled "King George V PE set" and came up with this one from Scalehobbyist,a very good vendor

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/manufacturers/White_Ensign_Models/Detailing_parts_kits/hms-king-george-v-ultimate-detail-set/WEM00003519/product.php

 

There were many other suggestions also,give it a try.

 

Thanks for the reply! I have never heard of White Ensign Models. Are their PE parts any good?

I have been specifically looking for Eduard PE kits. And although a whole kit would be awesome, I am pretty new to building model warships and am just now literally jumping in to trying out PE. So i was thinking that starting with the railings and crane kit would be a good place to start.

Wow, somehow I completely missed the exact kit i was looking for on Sprue Brothers. And in stock. I must have missed it while I was on there earlier.

I got some WE pe for my 1/144 Gato and was happy with the quality.  You will need super glue to assemble and attach to plastic.

You are probably right in just springing for the simpler pe.  Whole different animal working with it

White Ensign Models went out of business for a while, but seem to be back. They were a primary source for Royal Navy and other European subjects. Their paint line is Colourcoats, which is still available. Since you like RN subjects, you should get to know that part of the hobby.

Yes their products are good. Fair question, but as a new modeler to ships learn all you can to make PE work for you. It's important in steel navy modeling.

Other good sources are Gold Medal Models and Toms Model Works.

My Trumpeter kit came with a small amount of PE parts. I actually got very aggitated with myself, as I was trying to use my plastic cement to attach the PE part to plastic. It took me a couple minutes to realize that DUH, plastic cement will not work. i then used super glue and havent made that mistake again!

I just order the Eduard cranes and railings kit for my King George. I feel that the railings in themselves give a model ship a much better, and more realistic look. Figured that would be a good place to start my venture into actually using PE.

It's nice that ship models now are cast so that railings are added. It wasn't so long ago that the kit had a plastic railing which needed to be carved off. I'm building one of those now.

GMorrison

White Ensign Models went out of business for a while, but seem to be back. They were a primary source for Royal Navy and other European subjects. Their paint line is Colourcoats, which is still available. Since you like RN subjects, you should get to know that part of the hobby.

Yes their products are good. Fair question, but as a new modeler to ships learn all you can to make PE work for you. It's important in steel navy modeling.

Other good sources are Gold Medal Models and Toms Model Works.

Yes, White Ensign went out of business as an entity, but as part of their dissolution, they sold their PE line to Richard Harden of Toms Modelworks.   Richard has continued their line, and has added some to the WEM line.   Peter Hall, lead designer for WEM has kept working and has started his own product line as Atlantic Models.   

In the same manner, WEM sold their Colourcoat paint line to Sovereign Models. James Duff of Sovereign is working to rebuilt the distribution worldwide. 

I do not recommend Toms Modelworks brand PE to a noob   Their brand is vety fine and is etched from a softer brass   It is easily mashed by an errant thumb

Couple of hints about PE.  
1).  Resist the urge to install a single long piece of railing.  Cut into manageable 2-3 inch pieces.  Your goal is straigh, upright rails

2).  Tack the PE in place with some PVA glue.  I use Aleene's Tacky Glue from the craft store. It allows the opportunity to position the part.   Water cleanup with a damp Q-tip.   When dry, go back and glue with a bead of CA along the gutter rail 

As Ed said, WEM PE is very soft and thin as opossed to Eduard and therefor EXTREAMLY easy to destroy if you look at it wrong. I have learned what NEEDs to go on during the build and what can go on at the competion stage. I build all the sub-assemblies (fore superstructure and mast, aft superstructure and mast etc) before attaching them to the hull.
You'll find the 2 pounder QF Mk VI Pom Poms are most difficult to build, get streight and look correct even for a seasoned PE bender like myself. Out of frustration, I orderd six 3D printed Pom Poms from Black Cat Models in France, just to cut down on my stress level. The POW has 6, I believe the Tamiya KGV kit has 8?
Eduard is thicker and their cranes are very difficult to bend streight due to the length. A good pair of flat tweezers (found at Walmart) works well for this. I use a PE bender but several members find them useless but I can't do without it. They can be pricy but for me, they are perfect for gangways, ladders and long runs such as cranes and catapults. The KGV class has their cats built into the deck as opposed to the other navies battleships, and cruisers.
Tom's Model Works are also very thin and the instructions are horrific! I will only go with Tom's if there's nobody else making the set. I have never tried Flyhawk so I have no opinion on them.

I'm also building the IJN Akagi and I'm using Hasegawa's PE set. They are the perfect thickness but again, the instructions leave a little to be desired. Far better than Tom's but not a nice as Eduard as far as placement.

Again as Ed suggested, attaching the PE with as small drop of PVA works well for several builders. It doesn't work for me as after my transplant surgery, I can't keep the part steady enough, long enough for that method to be successful 

Invest in a pair of short, pointed but flat tweezers.

Also some slower setting CA (often sold as the 'gap filling' variety) with a thicker consistency will help. I use them exclusively for PE attachment, only running normal thin CA if extra strength is necessary.