Revell Northsea Fishing Trawler WIP

Tanker-Builder

Well!

  Nice save on the sternlight! As to the ladders, just what I meant. Standing off from the bulkhead they will look so much better.

 

Survey said; ditch the molded ladder! That is how I will proceed.

Regarding the stern light: You won't believe it, I didn't. Gremlins struck! In further testing the LED failed. It was working fine up until it didn't. I have to believe it shorted out somewhere along the line of subsequent test fitting and such.

So, I ripped it out and started over. In the process of starting over there is a silver lining. Looking for a less time consuming way to construct the housing I think I found one. I was able to build it in half the time and I will probably follow the same path with the mast lights. It might not look as good as the first, and that is debatable, but it's darn close and it serves my purpose. And in another respect, the new light assembly provides a nicer light pattern.

I will post an update later.

Bakster

I received the PE. Clearly-- smaller than the model but if the ladder is anything like the railing-- it is out of scale.  What do you guys think? 

I am hoping to use the stairs that came with the PE.

 

Railing not glued and just for perspective. 

I mountend it where the model has the flagpole. Truth is -- on the Tiger-- the pole is on the inward side of the railing. And if I left the pole in place as per the model--the pole would block the light. So--I will move the pole to the other side.

If time allows tomorrow, I might start on the mast lights.

 

Well, if the door is 3' wide, and the porthole about 18" diameter, then the moulded ladder is around 24"--that suggest the PE ladder is around 20" which is what most ladders actually are.  (You generally want a ladder to be shoulder-wide, any more than that is wasted (and needs stronger rungs.)

So, I'd call that good.

Flagpole is not mandated in maritime regulations, so, it an go to the side or, even behind the stern light (this is why combination fixtures where the sternlight and flagpole are melded together are middling common.)

Thanks, Capn. That cements it. 

I hope mounting the SL to the deck is somewhat acceptable. I could have mounted it to a post but that is not technically correct either.  All around... this model is filled with compromises. The closer I compare the model to the 1:1, the more glaring the inaccuracies become.

Though, not to discourage anyone from buying and building it. I am still enjoying it and as long as I temper my expectations, it's all good. I suppose with a lot of work one could turn it into a museum piece. Not this fella. I defer that to the experts.

Btw. Remember the assembly below? Gong! It's a do over. At times it may seem like I know what I am doing with lighting, but that is not true. I am still learning as I go.

So, what is the problem with what I did? The LEDs simply do not produce enough light. You can see their effect in complete lights-out condition, but then, what is the point in that. It's a lesson for me AGAIN that LEDs are directional. They are meant to be viewed square on. They do not produce much for ambient light and I need to get out of that mindset that they do. Part of what drives me to do that is power consumption. I try to minimize the number of LEDs used and I didn't want to hang an LED to each porthole. So, folks, don't do what I did. 

The bottom line is this. I need to mount an LED to each porthole. It seems rediculous to me but in testing, that seems to be the answer. Then you can see the light. This then causes another problem, they then become too bright. I may need to diffuse them, or attenuate their output by using a different resistor. It's all a journey. Sigh.

Well, Fiddlesticks!

        The thing looked so well, a little bright maybe, but just fine by the time everything goes on. OHO! I know what happened, they just replaced that old bulb with a new one, Reflector, Glass and all! That's gotta be it! Sorry about the glitch, You got this, I ain't worried.

CapnMac82

Flagpole is not mandated in maritime regulations, so, it an go to the side or, even behind the stern light (this is why combination fixtures where the sternlight and flagpole are melded together are middling common.)

Found this picture of the Tiger showing how they have it.

LED chips come in vacuum formed trays.  These work well to make a holder assembly.

Trim the pocket to its borders and you an have instant holder. It even has a hole for the light to shine through. Though, I enlarge it using a drill.

It is tough to cut a square hole in this material exposing the entire LED chip. So, I left it as a circle. In the end, I really like how the light shines through it. It seems to focus it into a bright and tight pattern. The image below does not do it justice. As usual-- the light is blown out.

I started work on the mast. Look how badly the model piece is in comparison to the Tiger. Mainly-- look at the spar and how big it is and how poorly it represents it. And look at the location. It is way off. That won't do.

The first thing I did was remove the spar. I will make a new one. The next thing I did was fabricate platforms for the lights. I didn't go into the weeds of accuracy. I just focused on something representative that looks half decent. Hole punches, a sharp knife, and Evergreen plastic helped to accomplish the work. 

Taking it in for my inspiration.

A lot more work to do on this.

And that is it for the weekend.

Looking great Bako.

Dodgy

Thanks, Ferg!

Bakster

The bottom line is this. I need to mount an LED to each porthole. It seems rediculous to me but in testing, that seems to be the answer. Then you can see the light. This then causes another problem, they then become too bright. I may need to diffuse them, or attenuate their output by using a different resistor. It's all a journey. Sigh.

I just had a thought. Rather than use an LED behind each porthole-- I might be able to use fiberoptic driven by two or three LEDs. That would reduce the number of LEDs by a huge factor, and probably address the light ouput because there will be some light losses in the process. And if I can find the correct size--the optical end will serve as the glass as well. I am gonna look into this.

Hi!

     Fiber Optics is usually where I go for builds such as this. That way I can use a "Tea Light" for the lighting. I have found some I can Plug into a control My landlady found on line for her Stained Glass Nite Lights. So, they are quite a bit dimmer.

Hi Again.

      In that photo from the forward Port Quarter, you can see why I like them. Such beautiful lines for a Working Boat! I converted the Model of one, years ago for a friend into a yacht idea he had. I don't know if he built a real one, but again the lines worked so well for a yacht with a swimming pool where the fish hatch was!

Tanker-Builder

I have found some I can Plug into a control My landlady found on line for her Stained Glass Nite Lights. So, they are quite a bit dimmer.

Tanker-Builder

  In that photo from the forward Port Quarter, you can see why I like them. Such beautiful lines for a Working Boat! 

Bakster!

       Surprisingly, in answer to your question. Yes, It has a rheostat type switch and it has limited dimming ability. It only goes to a specific low setting, remember it's for Night Lights! Also I found small lights for the Many versions of the pre-made Christmas Houses that will all plug into an In-Line dimmer switch!

     You know of course You'll have to search in person at Hobby Lobby and Micheals as well as Jo-Anns to find them. On Line descriptions don't tell the whole story. I bought  some Dimmable Christmas light strings last year for a model Railroad display.The little teeny bulbs were glued in place. They turned out to be little flame shaped L.E.D.s.

      NOTE: You can also Frost the plastic you are using for port Glass and use Warm Gold Clear for a coating. This will make them less bright too! This is a Clear-Coat I found in passing at the Craftint display at H.L.

Thanks for all that, TB. I will consider it. My working in the electronics industry I might buy a variable resistor and make my own... if needed. At least to find the resistance/output I want and then install fixed resistors.

Rheostats control current.  Potentiometers control voltage.

keavdog

Rheostats control current.  Potentiometers control voltage.

 

Thanks John!

Bakster

 

 

Bakster

The bottom line is this. I need to mount an LED to each porthole. It seems rediculous to me but in testing, that seems to be the answer. Then you can see the light. This then causes another problem, they then become too bright. I may need to diffuse them, or attenuate their output by using a different resistor. It's all a journey. Sigh.

 

 

I just had a thought. Rather than use an LED behind each porthole-- I might be able to use fiberoptic driven by two or three LEDs. That would reduce the number of LEDs by a huge factor, and probably address the light ouput because there will be some light losses in the process. And if I can find the correct size--the optical end will serve as the glass as well. I am gonna look into this.

 

Also, a person could put a vertical partition in, nad put LED on its faces, P&S, which would "point" them at the portholes. 

Looking good over all.

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

 

 

Bakster

The bottom line is this. I need to mount an LED to each porthole. It seems rediculous to me but in testing, that seems to be the answer. Then you can see the light. This then causes another problem, they then become too bright. I may need to diffuse them, or attenuate their output by using a different resistor. It's all a journey. Sigh.

 

 

I just had a thought. Rather than use an LED behind each porthole-- I might be able to use fiberoptic driven by two or three LEDs. That would reduce the number of LEDs by a huge factor, and probably address the light ouput because there will be some light losses in the process. And if I can find the correct size--the optical end will serve as the glass as well. I am gonna look into this.

 

 

 

 

Also, a person could put a vertical partition in, nad put LED on its faces, P&S, which would "point" them at the portholes. 

Looking good over all.

 

Regarding fiber optic I have two sizes in stock and what luck... one of them is the perfect fit. (1.5 mm). I will need to order some for the two larger portholes at the front of the cabin. Those are at around 3mm. Or maybe I will go with straight up LEDs. To be determined.

Since I have one size that works I did a quick mockup. And... oh yeah... that is the ticket. I am going fiber optic. Why I didn't think of this sooner I do not know.

It could be a bit tricky mashing the diameter of those in there, but I am pretty sure I can make work. I figure I can do 4 portholes per LED. 

I also worked on cutting a notch to run wires in the mast. Lastly, I have determined to stay with an 0805 LED for the mast light. I was considering a 1206 and figure them too large.

Thats enough for the night.

That looks great!

keavdog

That looks great!

 

Bakster

Regarding fiber optic I have two sizes in stock and what luck... one of them is the perfect fit. (1.5 mm). I will need to order some for the two larger portholes at the front of the cabin. Those are at around 3mm. Or maybe I will go with straight up LEDs. To be determined.

Since I have one size that works I did a quick mockup. And... oh yeah... that is the ticket. I am going fiber optic. Why I didn't think of this sooner I do not know.

It could be a bit tricky mashing the diameter of those in there, but I am pretty sure I can make work. I figure I can do 4 portholes per LED. 

I also worked on cutting a notch to run wires in the mast. Lastly, I have determined to stay with an 0805 LED for the mast light. I was considering a 1206 and figure them too large.

Thats enough for the night.

 

 

Another way to wire the mast head light- run a single insulated conductor up a mast made of brass tube. Connect one lead of the LED to the wire and the other lead to the mast. Attach a wire to the bottom of the mast under the deck.

Bill

Bakster

It could be a bit tricky mashing the diameter of those in there, but I am pretty sure I can make work. I figure I can do 4 portholes per LED.

The other spiffy part about using the FO is that a person can put clar colors over the ends to vary the effect.  A dab of clear amber can soften the color a bit; some clear smoke to show a dimmer light.

Looking good.

" Can you heat and mushroom the optic fiber to get 3mm?"

Bill, you always have great out of the box ideas. I will try this and see what happens.

Regarding the mast. That is a cool idea as well but I am already on the path of modifying the kit piece. I will see where this goes and go from there. 

I always appreciate your input! Thanks!

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

It could be a bit tricky mashing the diameter of those in there, but I am pretty sure I can make work. I figure I can do 4 portholes per LED.

 

 

The other spiffy part about using the FO is that a person can put clar colors over the ends to vary the effect.  A dab of clear amber can soften the color a bit; some clear smoke to show a dimmer light.

Looking good.

 

Thanks Capn!

Hey Bill, I gave it a try.  I could not get the FO to mushroom that large. The best I could do was melt it, and then mash it flat. Then I could get the diameter I needed. The bad news is that when I put light through it, the light does not transmit into the expanded area. The light you get holds to the original size. So, you see a dot at the original size. Sorry to say it didn't work but hey, good idea to try it!  I ordered some 3mil FO. What I don't use I will have in stock for the next possible project.

Bakster

Bakster wrote the following post 14 hours ago:

" Can you heat and mushroom the optic fiber to get 3mm?"

Bill, you always have great out of the box ideas. I will try this and see what happens.

 

Hey Bill, I gave it a try.  I could not get the FO to mushroom that large. The best I could do was melt it, and then mash it flat. Then I could get the diameter I needed. The bad news is that when I put light through it, the light does not transmit into the expanded area. The light you get holds to the original size. So, you see a dot at the original size. 

 

Bill

GMorrison

 

 

Bakster

Bakster wrote the following post 14 hours ago:

" Can you heat and mushroom the optic fiber to get 3mm?"

Bill, you always have great out of the box ideas. I will try this and see what happens.

 

Hey Bill, I gave it a try.  I could not get the FO to mushroom that large. The best I could do was melt it, and then mash it flat. Then I could get the diameter I needed. The bad news is that when I put light through it, the light does not transmit into the expanded area. The light you get holds to the original size. So, you see a dot at the original size. 

 

 

 

 

That in itself is interesting to know!

 

 

Bill

 

The top two lights are dummies. There are no LEDs in them. The bottom light has an LED and it looks nice when lit. I don't have an image because I need the glues to cure. I don't want anything shorting out. I have my fingers crossed nothing happened in this process.

I used a UV resin to create the glass. And I tried something that I was not sure if it was gonna work, but so far, so good. For the top light I mixed the resin with a touch of Tamiya white, on the second I mixed it with Tamiya Red Clear, and the bottom just straight up Solarez.

I have not used Solarez before and I decided to try it based on another modelers recommendation. The stuff cures nicely, certainly better than the Walgreens junk I once tried. And to be honest... I didn't notice much of an odor to this. Again, unlike the Walgreens junk. That stuff was downright nasty. The downside to this is that it's not cheap. I hope it has a long shelf life.

This particular one is a doming version. That worked well too. The stuff is thick but levels nicely to a dome. And it does not creep much. So, it stays where you want it.

If the light tests fine tomorrow, I can move on to sprue-gooing the trench I made for the wires. Then I need to make a spar, and I am thinking of making a ladder. If you look towards the bottom of the mast you will see some nubs. I think those are supposed to be a dumbed down version of a ladder.

Those masthead lights came out spiffy.

That resin is definitely a "keeper" (if only to discover shelf life )

That mast looks like a candidate for 3d printing, if only to clean up the details.  Would be cool to print it hollow for wires, too.