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Paint Presevation Suggestions?

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Paint Presevation Suggestions?
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 17, 2004 11:06 AM
I have been using PolyScale acrylic paints for several years and am generally satisfied with the results. I find however that after being stored for awhile the paint becomes thick and even lumpy. Adding tapwater does not restore its original consistency. My solution so far has been to purchase new bottles for most models, particularly commissions. This has become both wasteful and expensive at almost $4.00 each. Anyone have a sugestion for storage methods?

Al Blevins
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 17, 2004 8:32 PM
what i do is keep them frozen in carbonite till i need them

i dont know any way to save the paint that happens to mine all the time , mabye i think if you open each bottle every so often and stir it up ? but i got alot of paint and that could take a while hehe
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Warwick, RI
Posted by paulnchamp on Saturday, July 17, 2004 9:37 PM
You might try thinning them with isopropyl alcohol. I use this with Tamiya paints, which are also acrylic, and it seems to help preserve them.
Paul
Paul "A man's GOT to know his limitations."
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, July 18, 2004 6:50 AM
Thank you gentlemen.

Al Blevins
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Central USA
Posted by qmiester on Sunday, July 18, 2004 1:58 PM
Al

This is a problem no matter what type of paint you use (acrylics or enamels). I use enamels almost exclusivly but still occasionaly have the problems you describe. Think the problem is air slowly seaping in over time. Make sure the the lip of the container and the cap/lid are cleaned before putting the cap on. If you know that you are not going to use that particular paint for some time, clean the lip and cap and cover the top of the container with Saran Wrap (or a similiar substance) and then install the top. I've also found that it seems to help if you open and stir the paint every couple of month. (or as I do, put some # 7 bird shot in when I initially open the paint and then shake the container until it rattles freely - you can use BBs or small nuts with enamels but don't use them with acrylics - they rust and really screw the paint up!). As far as lumps already in the paint, you may be able to salvage some of them by thinning and straining the remaining lumps out (I use a piece of panty hose for straining)

I've been doing the above for years and have some bottles of paint that are approaching 25 yrs old and still usable (although now some of them seem to be undergoing a chemical change - getting some really strange lumping and color shifting)

Quincy
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, July 19, 2004 11:43 AM
Thanks Quincy, I'll give those suggestions a try. Your comment about paint surviving 25 years is most encouraging.

Al Blevins
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, July 19, 2004 4:31 PM
mabye the paint that is that old was made better back then with differnt chems in it or something cause now they only care about cost it seems
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by devinj on Monday, July 19, 2004 8:26 PM
I believe it is as Quincy said, evaporation through the cap seams.

Store your bottles upside down after opening them. The paint fills every little hole, and paint lasts very well. I've been doing this for several years now, and it works great.

Devin
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, July 20, 2004 11:20 AM
Also coating the threads with a little Vaseline will help. It also makes the lids easier to get off.

Dan
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: 37deg 40.13' N 95deg 29.10'W
Posted by scottrc on Wednesday, July 21, 2004 10:49 AM

The ticket is to make sure the jar is sealed as everyone has said. It seems some jars seal really well and others don't seal at all. Doesn't matter on who manufactures the paint. I too have paint in both acrylics and enamels that are 25 to 30 years old and some oils over 40 years old. The key is to keep the bottles air tight and in a area that has constant temperature. I have used all the above methods with good results. The best method is to make sure to clean the lid and inspect the seal after every use. If the seal seems worn or damaged, then replace it with the plastic food wrap. Storage is the next critcal factor. I store my paints in toolboxes and keep them in the basement where the temp and humidity is constant. Before I had a basement, I kept them in a closet that didn't get too hot or too cold.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 30, 2004 4:55 PM
I've tried all of the suggestions. What seems to work best for me are: 1) clean top and cap, stick a piece of thin pastic sheet (I cut up grocery store vegetable bags) on top and reseal; 2) turn upside down; and 3) store in enclosed container in a cool place. Nearly all my paints last OK. In spite of my efforts, though, every so often a tinlet of enamel or a bottle of enamel or acrylic will decompose or dry up. When it happens, age of the paint doesn't seem to be a factor. I think, most probably, it is a manufacturer's defect or nad container.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 31, 2004 2:53 PM
Gentlemen,

Thanks for all of the tips on paint preservation. I either have, or will be using most of them. Today I strained four-year old paint through cheesecloth and the results were excellent.

Thanks again

Al
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