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Best size for a wooden base for a ship model?

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Derry, New Hampshire, USA
Best size for a wooden base for a ship model?
Posted by rcboater on Saturday, April 14, 2007 7:01 PM

Are there any rules of thumb to consider when mounting a model on a wooden base?

I'm thinking about an un-cased model, where the base is a piece of nicely stained and varnished wood, and a full-hull model is mounted an inch or so above it on a oouple of nice metal posts.

In my case. I've got a Revell Titanic, which is 18 inches long.  Do I want a base as long (or longer) than the model?  Or will that make the base too big looking in comparison to the model itself?

Like I said-- are there any rules of thumb for this?  (The only such rule I'm aware of is that when building a case, you should allow about an inch of clearance all around.) 

TIA for any comments/advice....

-Bill

Webmaster, Marine Modelers Club of New England

www.marinemodelers.org

 

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Saturday, April 14, 2007 7:12 PM
Rule of thumb? I don't think anything other than, "stability". Make it STABLE. All else is personal taste. Personally, I'd go for a base only slightly shorter than the ship itself, to aid in transport if necessary and protect the hull line.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, April 15, 2007 12:12 AM

How do you make the base support(the support of the model)? Do you fixed the model unto the support permanently or what?

 

I'm planning to order a base plus the display case for a new model of mine.  

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Sunday, April 15, 2007 7:22 AM

Generally I attach my ships to their bases semipermenantly using nuts & bolts.

During the initial stages of constuction attach a nut to the hull.   On a plastic ship -- I will use a hardware-store variety machine screw & nut.  Drill a hole and attach the nut to the inside of the hull with some epoxy.  On a resin ship I use a threaded insert - which is a device for attaching a machine screw to wood.  Drill a hole to accept the insert and install it with epoxy.

On either method make sure that they are square & vertical or you will have difficulties making the connection.

Drill appropriately spaced holes in your wood base.  Countersink the hole on the bottom so that the bolt head does not protrude & scratch the surface the base is on.

Run a machine bolt up through the base and attach it to the nut on the bottom of the model.

Using a nut & bolt allows you to semipermenantly attach the model to a base.  It allows me to use a building board - a scrap piece of wood - that I can spill paint & glue on without ruining the display board.   The building board minimizes my handling the model with greasy fingers - handle the board instead.   When the model is finished - dismount it from the building board and install it on the display board

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
Posted by Chuck0 on Sunday, April 15, 2007 8:19 AM

  I custom cut all of my bases from one inch Oak stock and put the edge molding around the board myself, staining and varnishing it.

   For the size I just figure three inches all the way around the model, then make the glass cover to be one and a half inches all the way around. Gives a nice symmetry. There aren't any rules though, do what pleases your own eye. 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: vernon hills illinois
Posted by sumpter250 on Sunday, April 15, 2007 9:23 AM
 I like to make the base just a small bit longer than the model (sparred models, the base is just longer, and wider than the sparred dimension), and having about the same width to length ratio as the model. This way, when the model, on its base, is placed inside a case, there is clearance on all sides. In most cases, I have at least two bolts from under the base, into the keel, or a nut above the keel, to hold the model to the base. In almost every case, I have the model resting on keel blocks, and hull blocks, for secure support. www.railimages.com/gallery/peterjuengst/aal  shows Wanderer on a base. My avatar shows a 1/96 scale America on its base, and in a custom built case.

Lead me not into temptation ..................I can find it myself

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, April 16, 2007 10:22 AM
 EdGrune wrote:

Generally I attach my ships to their bases semipermenantly using nuts & bolts.

During the initial stages of constuction attach a nut to the hull.   On a plastic ship -- I will use a hardware-store variety machine screw & nut.  Drill a hole and attach the nut to the inside of the hull with some epoxy.  On a resin ship I use a threaded insert - which is a device for attaching a machine screw to wood.  Drill a hole to accept the insert and install it with epoxy.

 

............. 

 

No No Nooooooo i don't have the heart to drill holes that size into the hulls. My ship would be sinking very fast with the size of the gaping hole. It ruins the integrity/authenticity of the model 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: vernon hills illinois
Posted by sumpter250 on Monday, April 16, 2007 11:19 AM

No No Nooooooo i don't have the heart to drill holes that size into the hulls. My ship would be sinking very fast with the size of the gaping hole. It ruins the integrity/authenticity of the model 

   Unless it is meant to be in the water, you need to attach the model to the base to keep it safe. My 1/130 Surprise is attached to its base with two, 2-56 machine screws, through the base and into the keel. They cannot be seen. The America was held in place with dowels into the keel, they broke, in transit. Fortunately the damage was minor. The dowels were replaced with brass rod, epoxied in place. The depth of the base, ruled out the use of screws, or bolts.

Lead me not into temptation ..................I can find it myself

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