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  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Tampa, Fl
Posted by zipmeister on Wednesday, January 23, 2008 9:02 PM
 EdGrune wrote:
 zipmeister wrote:

Just an update. I put my order in at LuckyModels. The Tamiya 1/350 Fletcher......$22.00 with shipping! Wow can you believe that.

Zip

The local Hobby Lobby has a stack of the Tam Fletcher at $26.95 -- less the 40% off coupon in this weekend's paper.  That works out to just over 16 bux -- delivered.  I already have several  the stash and don't need any more of them. 

I have no Hobby Lobby.Boohoo [BH]

Zip

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: NJ
Posted by JMart on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 8:47 PM

Good pick on the Fletcher... I also got mine from Lucky Models, if you play around with the shipping (and have the extra $$), ordering a handful of kits fromthem results in BIG savings.

I have not built the Fletcher, but here is a review:

http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/ships/dd/dd-445/350-tamiya-fletcher/tamiya-fletcher.html

and a full build:

http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/ships/dd/dd-445/dd-445-bu/dd-445-buildup.html

 

Enjoy!

Im inthe NorthEast USA, the one region devoid of Hobby Lobby's :(

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Monday, January 21, 2008 12:39 PM
 zipmeister wrote:

Just an update. I put my order in at LuckyModels. The Tamiya 1/350 Fletcher......$22.00 with shipping! Wow can you believe that.

Zip

The local Hobby Lobby has a stack of the Tam Fletcher at $26.95 -- less the 40% off coupon in this weekend's paper.  That works out to just over 16 bux -- delivered.  I already have several  the stash and don't need any more of them. 

  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: St. Petersburg, FL
Posted by sawdeanz on Monday, January 21, 2008 11:29 AM
sweet deal, I'm considering that kit myself after I finish the Oregon.
  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Tampa, Fl
Posted by zipmeister on Monday, January 21, 2008 11:25 AM

Just an update. I put my order in at LuckyModels. The Tamiya 1/350 Fletcher......$22.00 with shipping! Wow can you believe that.

Zip

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: NJ
Posted by JMart on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 8:50 PM

EdGrune - Great point about 1:72 MTB and armor/aircraft. I started with the Revell PT109 because it was one of the first kits I built as a kid (and the price with your 40% off coupon at Michaels). But makes sense for a builder of armor & a/c to start with a PT boat 1:72 scale, then do the jump to 350 destroyers.

zipmeister & sawdeanz - good luck in your ship builds and post pics! Cheers, James

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: St. Petersburg, FL
Posted by sawdeanz on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 7:22 PM
sure, no problem. Let me know how it goes. I've been working on mine on and off. I am almost finished with the building aspect of it, I had to do a lot of cleaning up, but I've found it to be really fun. I definatly want to do more, so I'm sure you'll enjoy it as well. Good luck with yours.
  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Tampa, Fl
Posted by zipmeister on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 7:09 PM

 Jim, Ed you have been a ton of help and I really appreciate it. Without your imput I may have made a bad choice. Ed I think I will look into the book you suggested and my choice of ship to cut my teeth in will be the Tamiya 1/350 Fletcher. Look for a thread in the near future as I post about my first ship.
 And thank you sawdeanz for starting this thread in the first place. I learned a lot from your questions

Zip

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 7:06 PM

 JMart wrote:

SNIP

Not that I ever followed by OWN advice, ended building the REvell PT109 out of sentimental reasons, and lets just say I have been practicing putty filling and flash sanding a LOT lately.

SNIP

I would say that building any ship model 1:72 or larger, including submarines, is more akin to armor modeling than it is to modern (i.e. non-stick & string) ship building.  Generally there are no photoetch railings to deal with.   PE is more often or not replacement panels (decks, hatches, etc).   Armament is larger and are mini-models unto themselves

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 6:54 PM
 zipmeister wrote:

 I also had my eye on the Tamiya 1/350 Fletcher. I take it this may be a better kit? I really appreciate the feed back! I'm sure my first ship model will be OOB because I too notice the PE sets are priced at or more than the ship itself. I want to make sure I will enjoy building a ship first.

Zip

I just picked up the Fletcher Class Destroyers book by Lester Abbey.  It is in the ShipCraft books line.   Abbey echos my sentiments about the 1:350 Fletcher by Tamiya.   He says of the Tamiya " ... the best Fletcher kit on the market.  ... well researched ... great amounts of lovely detail,  fits together beautifully ... nicely moulded ... no flash or sink holes."

Abbey describes the Trumpeter The Sullivans as disappointing and decidedly mediocre.   For the Lindberg Blue Devil he compares it to the story of the axe.  "It was a very good axe after I replaced the blade, then replaced the handle."

Abbey's book is primarily a summary.  It summarizes the design and operational histories of the class.  He summarizes the armament evolution through the war.   He summarizes the camouflage measures applied.  For detailed information go to other sources,  the Squadron book,  NAVSOURCE, DestroyerHistory.com, etc.  I wouldn't hang my hat on the color plates for the camouflage measures.  They don't look blue enough to my eye. 

What the book does have and presents well is a review of the kits of the Fletchers by the major manufacturers.  He also includes the major aftermarket PE & resin suppliers.  He did miss the L'Arsenal set which came out after publication.

I'd recommend the book to supplement an existing library of Fletcher information

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: NJ
Posted by JMart on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 6:42 PM

I think the "consensus" seems to be that the tamiya fletcher 350 is one of the best, if not THE best, "first ship" to build. Not that I ever followed by OWN advice, ended building the REvell PT109 out of sentimental reasons, and lets just say I have been practicing putty filling and flash sanding a LOT lately. I was also told that a 1:720 scale modern aircraft carrier is a good choice; you can build as simple or complicated as you wish, not as much superstructure to worry about. I have an old Monogram Nimitz on the bench laughing at me at the momment :) 

good luck, cheers, Jim

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Tampa, Fl
Posted by zipmeister on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 5:37 PM

 I also had my eye on the Tamiya 1/350 Fletcher. I take it this may be a better kit? I really appreciate the feed back! I'm sure my first ship model will be OOB because I too notice the PE sets are priced at or more than the ship itself. I want to make sure I will enjoy building a ship first.

Zip

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 3:21 PM
 zipmeister wrote:

Hi all

I'm sorry sawdeanz I don't mean to steal your thread, but I too am curious about build a ship. Could I get an opinion on the Dragon Arleigh Burke as a first ship model. I have a friend that is willing to trade an aircraft model for it.

As a first ship model it is OK.  Its big.  Its its modern, Its gray.  Its boring.  It will give you some good experience in applying railings.   White Ensign and Flagship make photoetch sets.   Either are good, but you may get frustrated over the small hoohahs on the mast.  You also miss the learning process of the secondary & tertiary guns (a'la the Fletcher).

A note on the pedigree of the Dragon kit.   It is the old Panda Models kit.  Its hull is covered with bumps.    These are supposed to be the inhaul padeyes, used for clipping the over-the-side maintenance platforms close to the hull.   They should be small U's   Cut & sand them off. 

The flight deck has huge ridges (somepeople call them painting guides).   These need to be sanded flush.   No helicopter could land on the rough terrain of the flight deck

The bilge keels are also too big.  They need to be removed (filled) and replaced with some sheet stock.  I have the kit -- and I can't really remember if there are any facilities for making a waterline model - short of taking it to a belt sander

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: NJ
Posted by JMart on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 2:08 PM

350, that thing is huge, I have a USS Kidd in 350, great kits, takes a bit to build

here is a review link

http://www.ipmsusa2.org/Reviews/Kits/Ships/dragon_350_arleighburke/dragon_350_arleighburke.htm

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Tampa, Fl
Posted by zipmeister on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 1:58 PM

I'm sorry the scale is 1/350

Zip

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: NJ
Posted by JMart on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 1:47 PM
 zipmeister wrote:

Hi all

I'm sorry sawdeanz I don't mean to steal your thread, but I too am curious about build a ship. Could I get an opinion on the Dragon Arleigh Burke as a first ship model. I have a friend that is willing to trade an aircraft model for it.

 

What scale? search of this site gives following threads:

/forums/297010/ShowPost.aspx

/forums/297006/ShowPost.aspx

 

/forums/747821/ShowPost.aspx

 

hope this helps, I dont have it, but Dragon 1:700 Premium kits get high marks everywhere

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Tampa, Fl
Posted by zipmeister on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 1:35 PM

Hi all

I'm sorry sawdeanz I don't mean to steal your thread, but I too am curious about build a ship. Could I get an opinion on the Dragon Arleigh Burke as a first ship model. I have a friend that is willing to trade an aircraft model for it.

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: NJ
Posted by JMart on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 10:16 AM
Cant help with rigging, never done it... did you search this site? I have found answers to almost every question I have posed by searching.. plenty of info on here, good luck!

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: St. Petersburg, FL
Posted by sawdeanz on Thursday, January 10, 2008 8:52 PM
of course with midterms coming up for me, I haven't gotten much more done. But i have cleaned the seams since and have started adding parts to the superstructure. I even drilled out the gun barrels a little and all the portholes, so I felt proud about that. I guess I'll see how the drilled out holes look when I paint it, cuz i just did it by hand with a micro drill thingy.
Does anyone have a rigging diagram they can scan for me, or does anyone have any links because the directions have no directions for this except for the box cover art. Also, I suppose I'll have to search the forums for rigging techniques as this is something new to me... But alas, I should go do some more studying...


---Sawyer
  • Member since
    November 2007
  • From: North Carolina
Posted by u-boater on Thursday, January 10, 2008 2:05 AM

Looking good so far!

Take your time and don't get too stressed over the construction/details.

There are a lot of experienced people here with a lot of talent and know-how.

You'll get great advise and tips to help you along.

I look forward to following your progress!Make a Toast [#toast]

www.resinilluminati.com
  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by DURR on Saturday, January 5, 2008 6:06 PM
 peterj wrote:

 

Right now I'm working on the Trumpeter 1/350 SS Jeremiah O'Brien Liberty Ship, with GMM PE.  It's been a long time since I've done a ship, so I'm a bit rusty, but it's coming back. 

 

 

 

your a bit rusty you say  well don't forget to apply some of that rust to the o'brien

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: NJ
Posted by JMart on Friday, January 4, 2008 6:57 PM

sawdeanz - good luck on the build! I have not build that model myself, here are couple web pages with build info:

http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/ships/bb/bb-03/350-jb/jb-review.html

http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/kits/glen/kit_glen_oregon.shtml

Seams are a pain... I have gotten better luck with Tenax (plastic welder) than with liquid cement when it comes to gluing 2 "halves" of any cylindrical object.

bondoman - I remember your ship from the Revell GB (Im still finishing mine, past deadline, shh!)... what PE bending tool do you use? I will get one next month or two, starting to do some research on the subject...

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Friday, January 4, 2008 4:40 PM

I just built my first ship in a long time, the Revell USS Pine Island. It wasn't very expensive on eBay, and it was fun because it had an aircraft, and I'm not so much a gun guy. I bought the expensive GMM fret, but it also has enough to detail a San Juan Capistrano tanker, plus maybe a third model, so it worked out to less than $ 20 per ship and it really adds to the model.

I did spurge on a PE bender, but I'm always one for investing a little in good tools and it works for my RR and wingnut hobbies as well.

The water is funky, but I had a blast and got good advice here. I've since made the sea flat and am looking forward to building the tanker "under way". I really like the people on this forum- no snarky.

 

  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: St. Petersburg, FL
Posted by sawdeanz on Friday, January 4, 2008 3:55 PM
Here are some pics of the model so far. Obviously, it still needs a lot of cleaning up, mostly around the seam where the superstructure decks and the side superstructure wall pieces join together, the fit there was really bad. I've spent a lot of time trying to fix that seam and my hacking job on it may be hard to clean ( see 3rd photo) On the underside, there were some weird sink marks which I filled, and that is about as far as I have gotten. Oh, also I drilled out the portholes.




  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: St. Petersburg, FL
Posted by sawdeanz on Friday, January 4, 2008 3:31 PM
I hear what you guys are saying, and I appreciate the advice. I'm going to go ahead and build the oregon out of the box and do my best with it. I've already started and have got the major parts together (the hull halves, the deck, and the superstructure base). I may have jumped into a difficult build unknowingly, but I'll do my best to make a clean finished model even if it lacks some detail. Then I'll save up some money and get one of those WWII destroyers you all recommended. Since I don't have any experience with PE, the destroyer will be my first shot, and I won't worry about PE detail on the Oregon. Thanks again for your time and advice. Wish me luck!
  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Portsmouth, RI
Posted by searat12 on Friday, January 4, 2008 12:53 PM
Yup, I agree with all of the posts above about the Oregon.... Mikasa is an excellent build (but an expensive model!!).  A cheaper alternative might be one of the (many!!) Yamatos that are out there in 1/350.  If you are really hung up on big pre-dreadnoughts, the protected cruiser 'Olympia' is also a good subject which has been produced many times by a variety of model makers.  Best is if you can get a hold of one of the old ones by Pyro on Ebay, since the moldings are better than more recent editions (unless you want spend REALLY big bucks on a resin kit!!)
  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: NJ
Posted by JMart on Thursday, January 3, 2008 5:46 PM
Having "been there done that" I will "ditto" the above two posts. If you want to build a circa WWI and/or pre/dread types, the two examples mentioned above are much more accesible for a newbie (of which I am one!). I picked up the Zvezda 1:350 Oriol (Russian Borodino class BB) for $20 at SprueBrothers.com (look in the NAVAL BARGAIN BIN). The Revell 1:350 Emden (a large cruiser) is even cheaper, 10-12$ depending on which web site you look (GreatModels.com another good one). I would humbly suggest to shelve the Oregon and pick up one of the above (or one suggested in previous posts)...hey we ALL have stashes... I have opened couple kits, decided Im not up to speed and close them up for later...:).  Good luck either way and enjoy your build!

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2006
Posted by EPinniger on Thursday, January 3, 2008 3:32 PM
Although the Glencoe Oregon can be built into a beautiful and impressive model, I would agree with EdGrune that it is not for a beginner - even if you have a complete aftermarket PE set, there are still some missing details that need adding/scratchbuilding (turret roof vents, boat oars, etc.), modifying/reworking many of the plastic parts to add PE detail requires a fair amount of skill, and most of the kit parts require a lot of cleanup, sanding, filler etc. Basically wait until you've got a reasonable amount of experience working with PE and making simple modifications and scratchbuilt additions to styrene parts with Evergreen etc.
For reference, photos of the 1/48 Smithsonian museum model (available on the Internet, can't remember the URL but a Google search would probably find them) will help. An old issue of FSM (can't remember the year - 2002?) also had a good article on detailing the Oregon.

However, if built "out of the box" it'll still look quite nice, particularly if you add railings - but the poorly moulded parts (lots of flash/mould lines to clean up) and poor fit might be frustrating.

Regarding the railings, 1/200 scale would almost certainly look OK, for a start the scale of the kit is actually slightly larger than the  "1/225" on the box (something like 1/215), secondly, unless you know exactly how tall the original railings are supposed to be, the 7% approx. height difference won't be very noticeable - IMHO at least.
Another tip - the Tom's Modelworks PE set is MUCH cheaper than the Gold Medal one, although the latter has the advantage of also including parts for the Revell USS Olympia.

A good choice for a first "pre-dreadnought" battleship would be either Zvezda's "Borodino" (Imperial Russian) or Hasegawa's "Mikasa" (Japanese) - these are a significantly smaller scale (1/350) but being much newer toolings have much better fit, accuracy and detail. Zvezda's "Varyag" and Revell's "SMS Emden" are excellent kits of cruisers from the same era, also in 1/350.
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Thursday, January 3, 2008 11:09 AM

 sawdeanz wrote:
...<SNIP> ... although I would like to at least add railings, any suggestions for this?

Unfortunately you chose a subject which does not have a great deal of afternarket support vis-a-vis separate railing stock.   You can find it in 1:200 scale, but not in 1:225 scale without going to a set dedicated to the subject.  You may find that using these mixed scale items will result in a visually jarring image.

Plus you chose a model which is old (the kit, not just the subject).   The parts engineering, molding, and fit are not up to today's standards.  The molds are worn out -- lots of flash & misshapen parts.  The kit can be made to look quite nice, but not without a great deal of destruction and scratchbuilt replacement items.   Not something for a NOOB.

The kit engineering and aftermarket support was the prime reason for the recommedations I made.   My recommendation now,  build the kit but do not sweat adding the additional time, effort, or expense of aftermarket items.   Count it as a learning tool and move on

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