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Squadron Putty Substitute

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  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by Gigatron on Thursday, October 15, 2009 8:09 AM

I prefer my own, non-shrinking filler.  Cut up pieces of styrene (sprue works perfectly for this) and mix with the likes of Pro-Weld or Tenax R7 (any of the liquid styrene solvents).  Get it to the consistency of thin CA and you can brush it into all of your seams.  It won't shrink and because it's nothing more than liquid styrene, it not only mechanically bonds with the plastic, but it sands at exactly the same rate.

-Fred

 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Sunday, September 27, 2009 6:14 PM
 MikeV wrote:

 Hans von Hammer wrote:
I love the smell of petrolium distillates in the morning...

Smells like......victory. Laugh [(-D]

~Candidate for top 10 All-Time BEST Forum Posts~

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Sunday, September 27, 2009 5:34 PM

 Hans von Hammer wrote:
I love the smell of petrolium distillates in the morning...

Smells like......victory. Laugh [(-D]

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Saturday, September 26, 2009 4:27 PM
I love the smell of petrolium distillates in the morning...

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Thursday, September 24, 2009 12:27 PM

 qarloclobrigny wrote:
of all the putties i've tried, i like the acryl blue the best , goes on smoother,adheres better, sands easier, stinks mor though, might want to wear a mask. that being said, i've never tried the acryl green. and don't know anything about it.

Squadron green stinks too as it, as well as the 3M, has Toluene in it. Toxic stuff.  Yuck [yuck]

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Thursday, September 24, 2009 12:24 PM

Amazon,huh? weird. how much?

I just found it on Amazon for $17.76. Doesn't surprise me as they sell almost everything. 

http://www.amazon.com/3M-05964/dp/B000P0Q6HQ/ref=sr_1_43?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1253812956&sr=8-43

Look lower on the page where it says, "Customers who bought this also bought these" and it shows modeling related items. Apparently modelers know of this putty. Big Smile [:D]

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 7:45 PM
 INDY wrote:

If you want something very liquid, like the  acetone thinned putties discussed, I would reccomend the Tamiya Liquid Surface Primers, which can be used to smooth/level rough surfaces, or to impart textures to parts in much the same way as melting styrene with solvent glue, but without the bother & mess of mixing. 

Though many may shy away from a "hobby branded" product, Tamiya's LSP is pretty good stuff. Being very thin, it may require several applications to fill a substantial gap or seam, BUT it can be smoothed out or removed completely using denatured (ethyl) alcohol with no ill effects to the styrene. (It appears unresponsive to Tamiya X-20A avrylic thinner). You can apply it and then smooth or remove excess using a paper towel moistened with ethyl alcohol - no sanding, no lost detail. Though it smells like a lacquer based product, it is quite mild and doesn't "etch" styrene and can be removed completely if necessary using ethyl alcohol (makes brush cleaning very easy without resorting to more aggressive products like lacquer thinners or acetone).

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 6:43 PM

 qarloclobrigny wrote:
of all the putties i've tried, i like the acryl blue the best , goes on smoother,adheres better, sands easier, stinks mor though, might want to wear a mask. that being said, i've never tried the acryl green. and don't know anything about it.

Well, last resort is always a filler, but like I said, for anything bigger than a pinhole or small crack( for which we would use a UV setting viscous resin, or in some cases  a C/A glue) in my shop we use the 3M Green Spot Putty

 

I haven't tried the Blue 3M, but, notice the blue says it's 'glazing' putty"(as in for larger, thin patches, or even for layers, where you need to re-surface entire areas), while the Green says 'spot', as in smaller repairs(more likely model-sized) I'll tell you the Green has a very acceptable odor.  We also have the 3M Red Filler in the shop, which dries slower, stronger, and shrinks less.( The Green will require re-application on deep fills just like the cheap hobby putties, but it has a MUCH finer texture, nearly liquid right out of the tube, sets up in a minute, and is sandable a few minutes later, though it continues to harden and shrink slightly for some time. I'd like to try the Blue-I'm sure it has it's uses, but I'd reccomend the Green for small fills          If you want something very liquid, like the  acetone thinned putties discussed, I would reccomend the Tamiya Liquid Surface Primers, which can be used to smooth/level rough surfaces, or to impart textures to parts in much the same way as melting styrene with solvent glue, but without the bother & mess of mixing. 

'

 

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • From: atlanta, ga, usa
Posted by qarloclobrigny on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 5:25 AM
of all the putties i've tried, i like the acryl blue the best , goes on smoother,adheres better, sands easier, stinks mor though, might want to wear a mask. that being said, i've never tried the acryl green. and don't know anything about it.
thark you, stupid warhoons
  • Member since
    December 2015
Posted by dcaponeII on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 8:46 AM
Instead of acetone I've been using liquid cement to thin Squadron Putty.  It's doesn't evaporate quite so fast and really helps bond the putty in smaller cracks and seams.  Still sands beautifully. I haven't tried the 3M brand because I don't have to use much filler on my builds.  With Tenax or Ambroid you can usually work along the seam in short lengths and keep from needing too much filler.  I also use spacers inside wings at the root to line up offending molding problems.   I always consider having to use filler as a last resort during the build.  Don't forget to use Thin CA over the top to get a better surface match to the adjacent styrene that won't show under the paint as readily as these fillers can.
  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Monday, September 7, 2009 12:51 PM
 MikeV wrote:

3M Acryl Blue is far better than Squadron's stuff and if you seal it good it will last a lifetime. 

 

 

Friday night at our club meeting, I learned that 3M's putty can also be used with the acetone technique, just as I described above for Squadron putty.  My cousin owns an auto-body shop and I'm going to see if he has any of the stuff on hand, to try it out.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Sunday, September 6, 2009 2:40 AM
Amazon,huh? weird. how much?

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by batai37 on Sunday, September 6, 2009 2:04 AM
 nico86326 wrote:
 MikeV wrote:

3M Acryl Blue is far better than Squadron's stuff and if you seal it good it will last a lifetime. 

 

 

Mike, where you get it from. Was looking on the net for retailers.

 

You can order it through Amazon. That's where I got mine.

 

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 7:12 AM
 nico86326 wrote:
 MikeV wrote:

3M Acryl Blue is far better than Squadron's stuff and if you seal it good it will last a lifetime. 

 

 

Mike, where you get it from. Was looking on the net for retailers.

 

I don't remember the place I bought it from online, sorry.

I just did a google search and bought it from the lowest price I found.

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 7:09 AM

 uctrekker wrote:
Hi Mike,

Is that easier to sand than Squadron Putty?

--
Al

I think so Al. It sands really easy.

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 10:05 PM
 MikeV wrote:

3M Acryl Blue is far better than Squadron's stuff and if you seal it good it will last a lifetime. 

Mike you are on it !! I find Squadron putty a poor choice for most jobs(even though it's constantly used and recommended) I work in a pro model shop and we use the 3M Green

 A cut above 'hobby' putty       About $18 but should last you a few years. You can order it right from 3M. Sherwin Auto, or a pro finnishing supply co.

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 12:43 PM
 uctrekker wrote:

The manager had said that using the Bondo brand puttys would be like sanding steel. I will try the acetone trick with the Squadron putty and see how that works.

---

Thanks, 

Albert 

Your LHS owner is trying to protect his customer base from going elsewhere for modeling products, and he is full of hot air (or other warm steamy material).

Both Bondo Spot Glazing Putty (the red stuff) and Bondo two-part catalyzed body putty are excellent products for a modeler to work with.   Both sand and feather well.   The two-part putty has the advantage of hardening sufficiently within a half hour to allow you to continue working without an overnight delay for the solvents to evaporate.  The Bondo Red is solvent based, but seems to evaporate more quickly than Squadron.

Bondo Red is very similar to Dr Microtools red putty,  but is less expensive than Squadron or similar products with a hobby manufacturer's logo.   Less than 5 dollars buys you a large tube.  My current tube is about 5 years old and still has a good amount to go.  (Keep it capped tightly between uses.)

Bondo catalyzed putty was introduced to me by one of the professional model builders on staff at Lockheed.  He needs stuff which is inexpensive, easy, and fast to work with. 

Geez Alert - Back in the day, Testors had a cellulose based filler putty which was really rather coarse grained.   The custom car modelers began using real auto body fillers which were finer grained for smoother appearances.   Squadron, seeing the shift in the product, arranged for the manufacturer of the green putty then in vogue with the auto modelers to package their putty into smaller tubes with the Squadron label.   

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by uctrekker on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 10:35 AM
Hi Mike,

Is that easier to sand than Squadron Putty?

--
Al

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Cottonwood, AZ
Posted by nico86326 on Monday, August 24, 2009 1:07 PM
 MikeV wrote:

3M Acryl Blue is far better than Squadron's stuff and if you seal it good it will last a lifetime. 

 

 

Mike, where you get it from. Was looking on the net for retailers.

 

Mein Leben für mein Land. On the Bench: Academy Tiger 1 Early.. Fully detailed.. and pain in the butt
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Sunday, August 23, 2009 6:12 PM

3M Acryl Blue is far better than Squadron's stuff and if you seal it good it will last a lifetime. 

 

 

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by uctrekker on Sunday, August 23, 2009 2:11 PM

The manager had said that using the Bondo brand puttys would be like sanding steel. I will try the acetone trick with the Squadron putty and see how that works.

---

Thanks, 

Albert 

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Friday, August 21, 2009 11:43 AM

 uctrekker wrote:
Is this the product you use?



Is it really harder to sand then Squadron putty? That's what the manager at my LHS says.


I've used the 2-part automotive putty, not Bondo, specifically, (Bondo is actually just one brand-almost every auto parts chain has its own version), and found it more difficult to sand, but that was because I hadn't mixed the putty and catalyst in the right proportions, so it was a little soft.

I've never had any problems sanding Squadron putty, at all.  Did the manager at the store say any more about what kind of problems he had sanding it?

I also use the acetone trick, with the Squadron putty.  I do it in one of two ways:

1.  To make what I call "home-made Mr Surfacer", I squeeze a dollop of the putty into a well in a ceramic palette-though any non-reactive surface will do, like a paint bottle, or an old glass or glazed ceramic dish.  Then I add acetone with an eye dropper, and stir it with a toothpick.  I control the consistency by adding more liquid.  I use the toothpick to spackle it on to the seam, or into the gap.  I also have some dental tools with flat ends, like a spatula, and sometimes use those to apply the thinned putty.

The mixture dries quickly on the palette, because the acetone is volatile and evaporates quickly, but it can be brought back with more drops of the liquid.

2.  The other method is to apply the putty to the seam, again, with a toothpick or some other tool, and then to use a cotton swab soaked in acetone to smooth out the putty and remove the excess.  I don't use Q-Tips, because the shaft is plastic, and the acetone can melt it if it has enough time.  I use generic cotton swabs with pressed paper shafts.

I can use the swab to pass over the seam, across it, not along the seam, just like cleaning up after applying a wash to panel lines.  Going across leaves the material where I want it, going along the seam can remove it when I don't want to.

I've found that method 2 has helped cut down on the amount of sanding afterwards, since most of the excess putty is removed in the swabbing process.

It worked beautifully on a particularly bad seam on the Eduard 1/48 P-39Q kit.  On the underside, where the lower wing seam meets the seam between the two fuselage halves, there can be a step, where one side of the fuselage seam is lower than the other, and lower than the trailing edge of the lower wing piece.  I applied the putty using method 1, built up a layer, then used the back edge of an X-Acto knife to level the surface, by holding the edge against the high sides of the seam (the one fuselage side and the trailing edge), scraping outward from the point where the two seams met.  A couple of passes filled it and levelled it.

Once the putty dried, it sanded with no problems.

Regards,

Brad

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by uctrekker on Thursday, August 20, 2009 12:16 PM
Is this the product you use?



Is it really harder to sand then Squadron putty? That's what the manager at my LHS says.


  • Member since
    February 2007
Posted by PetarB on Wednesday, August 19, 2009 12:20 AM
Liquid plastic eh? That sounds perfect!
... how does it affect the plastic you're filling though - I mean the area on the model itself?
www.studiostarforge.com
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Central USA
Posted by qmiester on Tuesday, August 4, 2009 8:45 PM
You can make the exact same thing and only need to purchase the acetone.  You need a clean empty paint bottle w/lid, some acetone/glue, some old sprue and a set of dykes.  Using the dykes, cut the sprue into pieces that are aprox the same length as its diameter.  Fill the paint bottle about 1/2 full of the sprue pieces and then add acetone/thinner to the bottle until the sprue pieces are just covered.  Put the lid on the bottle and let it set for 24 hrs.  voila, liquid plastic!  (if the concoction is too thin, add some sprue pellets.  If it's too thick add some acetone/thinner)
Quincy
  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posted by Airth on Tuesday, August 4, 2009 8:11 PM

I live in an area where the hobby stores are either out of supplies, or what they have is price-gouged so much it excludes those of us with other expensive hobbies besides modeling.  Since I'm on an island, shipping can take some time too, so I've had to resort to being creative in other ways several times.

I've found an awesome standby for putty that takes some patience to produce, but the results are flawless.  If you have access to "moon sand" (or mars sand, depending on the manufacturer) found in toy isles, and liquid cement (or acetone), you're golden.  Moon sand is powdered polystyrene plastic--mix it with some liquid cement or acetone (nail polish remover), and you have what can range from a glue-like paste to a thick putty depending on your mixing ratio.  Mix it in a resealable glass container, and you can use it again and again.  It sands and takes paint just fine once cured.

Beware of those who stand aloof And greet each venture with reproof; The world would stop if things were run By men who say, "It can't be done".

fox
  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Narvon, Pa.
Posted by fox on Sunday, July 19, 2009 8:35 PM

I've used the Red and Blue spot putty for years. Its good stuff. Also use some of the other hobby puttys too. Depends on the project. They all work great if used right.

JimCaptain [4:-)]

 Main WIP: 

   On the Bench: Artesania Latina  (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II

I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.

  • Member since
    July 2009
Posted by tomcat4evr on Sunday, July 19, 2009 3:23 PM
try mixing the squadron putty with laquer thinner from tamiya trust me it works better make sure u mix it in a glass bottle  or try tamiya liquid surface primer  good luck
  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: Fort Worth, Texas USA
Squadron Putty Substitute
Posted by J.Warnell on Sunday, July 19, 2009 2:38 PM
   I was in need of some putty for the seams on my latest aircraft build. I could not find anyone that had the old standby of squadron putty, and no one was sure when they would be able to get any. There weren't many places to check because hobby stores are almost non exisistant where I live. I purchased Bondo brand glazing and spot putty in a tube at the local auto parts store. It works great. In fact, I always felt that the squadron putty was too thick. This stuff goes on better, and sands easily. Many of you probably already new this, but for those that didn't, keep it in mind.
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