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Smaller Fuselage Parts Place on or After Priming??

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  • Member since
    January 2015
Smaller Fuselage Parts Place on or After Priming??
Posted by Radial9 on Thursday, January 15, 2015 4:55 PM

I’m putting together a Revell 1:48 A-10 Warthog. I have the all the wings, rudder and tail assembled. I have puttied seams and sanded down. I will have the canopy in place and masked soon.

Should I place all or most of the smaller fuselage part onto the fuselage? Fairing covers, vent covers, deceleron covers, pave penny, ventral strakes in place BEFORE priming or prime first then scrape paint and cement the smaller pieces onto the fuselage.

I have the nose gear on but intend to hold off on rear wheels until after prime. Correct?

My apologies if this has been asked before. I’m sure it has, but I find no search engine on this forum, unless I’m just missing it. Frustrating.

Thanks!

Radial9

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, January 16, 2015 9:23 AM

No hard rule on this, it depends on the plane, and the color scheme.  The general rule, however, is if a part will be painted the same as the area surrounding it, go ahead and glue it on before any painting or priming. If it is going to be a different color, and is too delicate to mask, put it on late in the build. For every other situation it is a judgement call.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Friday, January 16, 2015 4:41 PM

Glue on all your covers, your ventral strakes/fins, windscreen before paint. Most else is personal preference or a judgement call Like Don said.

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, January 16, 2015 4:50 PM

I agree with Don, The only deference is I will sometimes leave the canopy off and hand-paint the frames if it is too difficult to mask. For the A-10 I would glue it on first.

The forum's search engine is to the right of your post. "SEARCH THE COMMUNITY".

Steve

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

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  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Friday, January 16, 2015 8:53 PM

I've been debating the answer to that question myself. I've got a 1/72 scale L-39 Albatros kit by Eduard and it included PE parts... and  I mean tiny PE fuselage parts (antennas, and the like.).

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Sunday, January 18, 2015 5:55 PM

I'm no airplane modeler, but I'll offer this. There seem to be a lot of widespread misconceptions about primer on plastic models. Modern hobby paints are formulated to stick directly to styrene. Primer is not necessary to make the paint stick.

The big function of primer on a plastic model is to provide a consistent color under the finish coats. Modern paints do an incredible job of covering the surface in thin coats, but if you have a yellow part glued to a black part it will take lots of white paint to hide the transition.

I'll bet that A-10 kit is molded in grey, and slightly different shades of grey are the colors of the finished product. If you filled the seams with white or green putty, a shot of grey primer will be a big help. But it the primer is about the same color as the styrene, it's perfectly safe to stick on additional parts and spray them the same finish color with no primer. You just don't want to ask the finish coat to hide a sharp contrast between colors that it's covering.

On the other hand, a coat of primer (if it's not too thick) won't do any harm. Your choice - but don't worry about the paint failing to stick.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: near Nashville, TN
Posted by TarnShip on Monday, January 19, 2015 12:12 AM

Here is a short list of Modern Hobby Paints that you will absolutely have to primer the model before painting them on.

Vallejo (and the rest, made of that formula, AK, MiG, Italeri, Color of Eagles, etc)

Lifecolor

XtraCrylics

AKAN Acrylics

MisterKit

Badger

Humbrol Acrylics

Model Master Acrylics

the Aeromaster and Polly Scale were hit and miss, some colors need primer, some don't

I don't know about MisterPaint yet, but, that is a fairly new line, I am sure we will get info on their use sometime soon.

If you are using a water soluble Acrylic, just get some Badger Primer, and then when you lift your tape off after your color coats, you won't be one of the hundreds going online to complain that your "tape is bad"

If you are painting outside, or if fumes aren't a problem inside, then put your first coat of paint on with some easy to get Enamel, and use that as your primer (or as your first color)

The main decision as to whether you put the tiny/narrow parts on before or after primer is how much you are worried about buildup at the part to fuselage joint. You don't want a bolted on antenna to look "faired in" at the base of it, when it should look like it was bolted on.

For those, don't worry about scraping off paint to "cement" them in place,,,,,,,use clear paint, Aleene's Tacky Glue, Superglue, Watch Crystal Cement, or Gator Grip water soluble superglue, all of those can stick parts onto a painted surface.

Washing the model can also help with paint adhesion. I have been doing it that way since 1969, and I have never had to post "helpppp, my paint didn't stick"

I know "real hobby products" cost more,,,,,,,,,,but, if you use them all the way through a build, you won't be posting it either.

Rex

almost gone

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, January 19, 2015 8:42 AM

Maybe my modeling paints will stick to plastic, maybe they won't.  I am not sure what all determines it- maybe whether the mfg uses release agents and what they are, maybe it depends on how much I touch parts before I paint (finger oils do affect paint adhesion).  So while the paint usually sticks without priming, it doesn't always.  So I use primer to guarantee adhesion.  I find priming easier than striping a bad paint job with spots of poor adhesion.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

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