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Pastels sticking

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  • Member since
    August 2012
Pastels sticking
Posted by JMorgan on Friday, May 22, 2015 8:03 AM

Any advice on how to make them stick better other than a flat finish?

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Wednesday, May 27, 2015 9:33 PM

That's about it J. I usually dry brush the ground up pastels on in layers if I need to in order to darken the areas and feather/ fade them out like on exhaust stains. Sorry dude that's about it from this corner.

                   

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  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Thursday, May 28, 2015 7:56 AM

Use a fixer, such as mineral spirits, or the pre made ones from Mig or AK. Youtube is your friend for pigment how to's.

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Thursday, May 28, 2015 2:33 PM

A fixer doesn't bond pigments to a surface; it helps pigments flow into micro crevices on a matte surface.  Thus, you need to apply pigments to a matte surface.  A glossy surface doesn't have micro crevices in which pigments can get stuck and is not good for pigment application.  Try to apply pigments to glass.

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  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Thursday, May 28, 2015 4:45 PM

Chrisk-k

A fixer doesn't bond pigments to a surface; it helps pigments flow into micro crevices on a matte surface.  Thus, you need to apply pigments to a matte surface.  A glossy surface doesn't have micro crevices in which pigments can get stuck and is not good for pigment application.  Try to apply pigments to glass.

...which then helps it adhere. If he's still having trouble on a matte surface, I'd suggest a fixer. 

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, May 28, 2015 6:52 PM

I have used rubbing alcohol in the past, depending how thick or runny you want your application. It dries up really quick and then use a firm brush to adjust the effects. The alcohol will make it adhere even better.  

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Thursday, May 28, 2015 7:00 PM

plasticjunkie
I have used rubbing alcohol in the past,

That's a good technique Ernie but he's gotta be careful with the rubbing alcohol on acrylic paints if that's what he's using. Surprise Alcohol will remove acrylic paints in nothin' flat!

                   

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  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Thursday, May 28, 2015 8:31 PM

I coat the model with a Vallejo matte varnish, which is impervious to IPA or typical acrylic thinners, and then use Tamiya acrylic thinner to apply pigments.

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Friday, May 29, 2015 7:44 AM

Mustang

I hear ya on that and the clear has to be cured. I use MM acrylic flat as a barrier to do my oil washes and DOT filters on armor and then followed by the alcohol treatment with MMP Powders. I can see that being a problem if the clear acrylic flat has not fully cured. I wait several days to let the clear cure and I apply it without rubbing or going over it multiple times.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Monday, June 1, 2015 3:32 PM

You're brave. I've had 91% Iso take off cured acrylic paint many times. Tamiya/Gunze. Heck, even Mr. Surfacer if you use enough Iso. Maybe 70% would be less harmful?

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: Denver, Colorado
Posted by waynec on Monday, June 15, 2015 12:56 PM

i usually don't put a barrier coat between acrylics and washes.  Tamiya, MMA, Vallejo paints washed with , oils, weathering powders, pastels, acrylic washes. never had a problem.

Никто не Забыт    (No one is Forgotten)
Ничто не Забыто  (Nothing is Forgotten)

 

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