Wet sanding question

Personally, I like to use a circular motion if the part I am sanding allows it (i.e, not a long narrow piece or such).  I find sanding marks from straight sanding stand out more than circular ones.

Hey Don,

Thanks for your reply. I have followed the sanding process with "let the sand paper does the work" approach and still getting swirl marks when polishing. Anyway I can cut down the swirl marks on the body? Or this is impossible to do even by expert? Or I did something wrong in the process?

Thanks again.

Kelvin

Kelvinator

Hey Don,

Thanks for your reply. I have followed the sanding process with "let the sand paper does the work" approach and still getting swirl marks when polishing. Anyway I can cut down the swirl marks on the body? Or this is impossible to do even by expert? Or I did something wrong in the process?

 

Thanks again.

Kelvin

 

Personally, I have found the sanding marks from 600 or finer paper, used wet, fill okay with the next coat of paint. 

I don't use anything that coarse, however, if I have already put on the last coat.  If there are any flaws in that last coat that I want to try to rescue without repainting, I use super-fine stuff like 2000 or finer, or even a polishing compound.

BTW, the issue of polishing compounds is an interesting one.  Some polishing compounds contain wax, and that ruins any possibility of putting on any other finish on top, like a gloss coat or a dullcoat.  I only use a polish if I am absolutely sure I will be applying no more finish.  Anyone know of a good polish that is absolutely wax (and silicone) free?

Since you mentioned 2nd wet coat or the finish coat, now I know what I missed in the process. After sanding off the orange peel on the first wet coat where there were still marks all over the body, I ran straight to polishping without giving the finish coat. So I guess the logic is starting with mist coats til prime is covered, apply first wet coat and do the orange peel sanding after the paint is completely cured, then final coat for polish assuming that I don't get much of orange peel or I need sanding again.

I tried both tamiya compounds and novus and they both do their job. Alex from italianhorses.net recommended 3M compound and his works look very sharp. Though I have no idea if it contains wax ingredient.

So are we supposed not to wax the body after polishing?

The original post did not say whether finish was flat or gloss.  On flats, I can get by with two color coats, but on gloss I usually put on at least three, and sometimes several more than that.

I am working on Tamiya 1/20 P34 Tyrrell and would like to give a mirror finish. As my first auto project, it has been a daunting experience battling against dust, sand paper, polish and swirl marks. Thanks for your tip sharing and will let you know how it comes.

To Kelvinator,

I will be watching for your P34 with great interest as I have a couple of kits I want to do with the as yet untried mirror finish as well.  Namely my current build; John Glen's F-86 "Mig Mad Marine"  I want in a mirror finish as a tribute to my fellow Ohioan.

Finally finished after 4 weeks of hardwork. It's not 100% perfect and I made mistakes along the course which drove me banana. Polishing and wet sanding used to be the most daunting tasks but they are now my most enjoyable sessions when I master the techiques. Next to it is the 38 years old Tomica P34 I collected when I was 8. Now I am just so happy to see them together in the glass display everyday. You can see the pic at

http://www.kelvindesign.com/img/p34.JPG

Don Stauffer

 

 

Kelvinator

Hey Don,

Thanks for your reply. I have followed the sanding process with "let the sand paper does the work" approach and still getting swirl marks when polishing. Anyway I can cut down the swirl marks on the body? Or this is impossible to do even by expert? Or I did something wrong in the process?

 

Thanks again.

Kelvin

 

 

 

 

Personally, I have found the sanding marks from 600 or finer paper, used wet, fill okay with the next coat of paint. 

I don't use anything that coarse, however, if I have already put on the last coat.  If there are any flaws in that last coat that I want to try to rescue without repainting, I use super-fine stuff like 2000 or finer, or even a polishing compound.

BTW, the issue of polishing compounds is an interesting one.  Some polishing compounds contain wax, and that ruins any possibility of putting on any other finish on top, like a gloss coat or a dullcoat.  I only use a polish if I am absolutely sure I will be applying no more finish.  Anyone know of a good polish that is absolutely wax (and silicone) free?

 

It feels as if there is no texture on the white side, but the first time I tried it I was amazed at the polishing ability it has. I filed and wet fine sanded the mold seam on a canopy, that left a slightly hazy look. I took a few swipes with the white side of the foam pad and what a crytal clear finish it gave. No deposit or film is left behind. 

I know this sounds vague, there is no makers mark of any kind on it, but it seems like there should be plenty of items like this in other shops. I do wish I had found this gem years ago, it works much better than I had hoped.

Patrick

That turned out great - looks like your patience and work really paid off!

Mike