F-4 Phantom Exhaust advice needed

Found a new piece on ebay. It'll be here Monday. In the mean time i worked on this one for practice. I used jet exhaust to streak the tail and cover up alot of the clear green and blue just leaving the lines on the edges like i saw in the pictures. what do you think?

Muted it in 3 seconds. What a way to ruin a how-to video...

Awesome response, thank you all! I will go with the concensus and start over.

Any additional advice for stripping the metal colors? I don't see anything obvious on the vallejo website. I'm going to watch the video and look at the airbrush technique referenced before decidng whether to stay with the drybrush approach. Don I'm glad to hear this has merit and is reasonable to try.

...edit...I'm with plasticjunkie, i watched that video just now and had to mute it within 15 seconds!

I know a fellow hobbyist in another forum used a technique that's out of world using Alclad lacquers. All done using an airbrush....

Phil_H

Another option to consider is Tamiya's Weathering Master set "D", which contains "burnt blue" and "burnt red" mediums (I'm not going to call them pigments because though similar in application, they aren't).

Watch the demo here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVjjvSaQeew  

 

That is another method that would look good. I do think that less is more and IMO he went heavy handed with the colors. Had to mute out that background music LOL.

Another option to consider is Tamiya's Weathering Master set "D", which contains "burnt blue" and "burnt red" mediums (I'm not going to call them pigments because though similar in application, they aren't).

Watch the demo here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVjjvSaQeew  

templar1099

 

plasticjunkie

The F-4s area in question is a dark steel wich darkens from the exaust.

 

 

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Thanks for at least straightening me out PJ,being a grunt I wouldn't realize the difference. 

 

No worries

plasticjunkie

The F-4s area in question is a dark steel wich darkens from the exaust.

Thanks for at least straightening me out PJ,being a grunt I wouldn't realize the difference. 

Your brush was not dry enough.  I can get just as thin a coat of paint by dry brushing as I can with my airbrush.  The advantage of the dry brush method is that the paint goes on a bit unevenly, hitting mainly high spots, giving more texture and depth to the result.

Like airbrushing, or any painting technique, it takes practice.  Practice on scrap plastic, not good kit parts.  Keep reducing the amount of paint on the brush till you get the result you are looking for.  I dip the brush in the paint, then brush it out on the surface of a coated cardboard, or plastic sheet.  I then pick up paint from that paint on the "palette". It dries fast, so you have to keep redoing the paint on the palette, even with enamel.  I find enamel or oil far better for airbrushing, because acrylic dries so fast.

I strongly suggest using an air brush for this. You will be able to get subtle fading that is extremely difficult to get without the use of one.

The F-4s area in question is a dark steel wich darkens from the exaust. I shot mine in black enamel first followed by Alclad steel then flat black subtle staining. Tamiya clear blue thinned 50/50 came last setting low psi to get very subtle bluish heat discoloration. Double click on the picture for a closeup.

B1 Crew Chief posted a good technique in the aircraft section for his F4 build,might want to take a look.

  I agree with KnightTemplar on this one. I've had some bad experiences with both Tamiya clear colours as well as the "smoke" one. They're good products however they require a little tweaking at times. I would start fresh; strip off the old stuff and re spray a metalizer or whatever paint you like. I've had reasonable success with the Tamiya pigments or see what MiG has to offer. Best of luck with it!

Tamiya transparent paints are a funny beast to work with, Mongoose. They can be a pain sometimes with a brush and the airbrush is really the tool for this stuff, but even that requires a bit of testing and playing around to get the most of the paint. If she were my bird, I'd just strip and repaint because metal finishes usually don't hold up well when I try to fix things and I make more problems. Looks like it's one part, so no major problems in starting fresh. The effects that I think you have in mind would be airbrushed with Alclad's line - they've got some great stuff to simulate the heat staining and color shifts. Best wishes to you, 'Goose!