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Pigment to mud

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  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: N. Burbs of ChiKawgo
Pigment to mud
Posted by GlennH on Tuesday, February 5, 2019 6:25 PM

Hey all. I'm finally wrapping up my AFV Club 5 ton to complete my collection. I have some AK pigment that I used on my last model that's right for this one as well. What I am looking for is the least complicated way to thicken this pigment just enough for tire sidewall mud. One link said add some plaster which is only going to lighten it, another said add some clear matte paint yet another suggested Elmers glue...

I don't want to go nuts nor blow off a bottle of pigment reinventing the wheel. Contrary to popular belief the guys took pride in their rides and the howitzers. Diesel equaled that showroom waxed look. Anyway I got to skate a few months and haul ammo to FSB's and this was mine and the look I am going for so I'm asking the wizards. 

 Army Viet Nam 5 ton by Glenn Hanson, on Flickr

A number Army Viet Nam scans from hundreds yet to be done:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/southwestdreams/albums/72157621855914355

Have had the great fortune to be on every side of the howitzers.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, February 6, 2019 3:47 AM

I just mix mine with a drop water and a tiny splash of washing up liquid. It can be applied quite thick and then once dry is easy to remove excess.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    October 2010
Posted by hypertex on Wednesday, February 6, 2019 6:28 AM

I apply the pigment to the model and fix it with pigment fixer or clear matte varnish. If I want thickness I just add an extra layer or two after the first one dries.

There are many ways to do this, it sounds like you got three good suggestions already, but I've only tried one of them. No need to reinvent the wheel. Pick one and test it on a small spare part first to see if you like the results. If you don't like it try again. If you do like it, use it on the model. That way you aren't wasting much pigment.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: From the Mit, but live in Mason, O high ho
Posted by hogfanfs on Wednesday, February 6, 2019 6:37 AM

I'm in the process of adding mud to a tank right now. I'm doing the same basic technique that Bish mentions except for not adding a slash of soap. I'll post pictures, if you like, once I'm complete. 

 Bruce

 

 On the bench:  1/48 Eduard MiG-21MF

                        1/35 Takom Merkava Mk.I

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, February 6, 2019 6:45 AM

hogfanfs

I'm in the process of adding mud to a tank right now. I'm doing the same basic technique that Bish mentions except for not adding a slash of soap. I'll post pictures, if you like, once I'm complete. 

 

The washing up liiquid just helps to break the surface tension of the water. I just find it applies better with it. A tip i picked up from Bill Plunk.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: From the Mit, but live in Mason, O high ho
Posted by hogfanfs on Wednesday, February 6, 2019 6:48 AM

Bish

 

 
hogfanfs

I'm in the process of adding mud to a tank right now. I'm doing the same basic technique that Bish mentions except for not adding a slash of soap. I'll post pictures, if you like, once I'm complete. 

 

 

 

The washing up liiquid just helps to break the surface tension of the water. I just find it applies better with it. A tip i picked up from Bill Plunk.

 

Bish, you must be a mind reader, I was thinking what was the difference with or without the soap. Thank you for the explanation.

 Bruce

 

 On the bench:  1/48 Eduard MiG-21MF

                        1/35 Takom Merkava Mk.I

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, February 6, 2019 6:52 AM

Your welcome, i do the same with Flory Wash, which they do recomend on the website.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: N. Burbs of ChiKawgo
Posted by GlennH on Wednesday, February 6, 2019 7:41 AM

I like that water idea. I'll give it a shot later.

 

A number Army Viet Nam scans from hundreds yet to be done:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/southwestdreams/albums/72157621855914355

Have had the great fortune to be on every side of the howitzers.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, February 6, 2019 9:32 AM

GlennH

Hey all. I'm finally wrapping up my AFV Club 5 ton to complete my collection. I have some AK pigment that I used on my last model that's right for this one as well. What I am looking for is the least complicated way to thicken this pigment just enough for tire sidewall mud. One link said add some plaster which is only going to lighten it, another said add some clear matte paint yet another suggested Elmers glue...

 

 

 

Speaking of plaster, hardware stores carry a pigment used to tint plaster. It comes in many earth tones, and is really cheap.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, February 6, 2019 9:35 AM

I think plaster works fine if you want a really thick heavy build up of mud. I use celluclay for that as i use it for the base anyway and as it colour it before applying it has the same colour. But for the sort of mud Glenn wants, i think plaster would be to much.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, February 6, 2019 10:20 AM

I use water and a drop or three of Future as a fixing agent. If I want more texture to my mud, I have Altoids tins full of sifted fine dirt from my yard that I add to the mixture until I get the consistency that I prefer.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

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N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: N. Burbs of ChiKawgo
Posted by GlennH on Thursday, February 14, 2019 9:59 PM

[quote user="hogfanfs"]

I'm in the process of adding mud to a tank right now. I'm doing the same basic technique that Bish mentions except for not adding a slash of soap. I'll post pictures, if you like, once I'm complete. 

 

[/quote

Please do or maybe you have under 'armor' which I will check

A number Army Viet Nam scans from hundreds yet to be done:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/southwestdreams/albums/72157621855914355

Have had the great fortune to be on every side of the howitzers.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: From the Mit, but live in Mason, O high ho
Posted by hogfanfs on Friday, February 15, 2019 6:19 AM

GlennH

hogfanfs

I'm in the process of adding mud to a tank right now. I'm doing the same basic technique that Bish mentions except for not adding a slash of soap. I'll post pictures, if you like, once I'm complete. 

 

Please do or maybe you have under 'armor' which I will check

 

I will post it once complete, but, the evening that I was going to attempt to finish, I found my basement flooded. So, I've been working on that mess the last week. I'll hopefully have some pictures posted this weekend. 

 Bruce

 

 On the bench:  1/48 Eduard MiG-21MF

                        1/35 Takom Merkava Mk.I

 

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Friday, February 15, 2019 1:34 PM

Glennh;

 I was in Hill Country Hobbies the other day and one of my friends picked up some Large Bottles of Mud effects and Dirt effects paint .It was the consistancy of Pudding Pack contents .I don't know the name but I believe it is around in many colors for you . T.B.

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Friday, February 15, 2019 1:54 PM

To make mud, I use pastel chalks, ground up, mixed with a drop or two of water and a drop of dishwashing liquid/liquid soap.  For me, the liquid soap isn't so much for surface tension, as it is an adhesive for the sludge of chalk and water.  I already have the chalks on hand for dusty effects, so it was a natural step to use it to make mud.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: N. Burbs of ChiKawgo
Posted by GlennH on Friday, February 15, 2019 5:02 PM

More good ideas. I ended up just using a few drops of water. I could have went a bit heavier on the tires. The drywall mud base I just went over with water diluted pigment. No idea what that pigment is made from but it's amazing how little it takes to paint over that base.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/3/t/181190.aspx

A number Army Viet Nam scans from hundreds yet to be done:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/southwestdreams/albums/72157621855914355

Have had the great fortune to be on every side of the howitzers.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: From the Mit, but live in Mason, O high ho
Posted by hogfanfs on Saturday, February 16, 2019 2:06 PM

GlennH,

Here is my Type 4 with pigment dilluted in water to simulate mud.

You can find the build thread here: http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/3/t/170013.aspx

 

 Bruce

 

 On the bench:  1/48 Eduard MiG-21MF

                        1/35 Takom Merkava Mk.I

 

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: N. Burbs of ChiKawgo
Posted by GlennH on Saturday, February 16, 2019 10:40 PM
Looks very good. Thinking back I could have done the treads a bit heavier with either thicker or more coats. I'm not pressing my luck now. It's parked on the wall.

A number Army Viet Nam scans from hundreds yet to be done:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/southwestdreams/albums/72157621855914355

Have had the great fortune to be on every side of the howitzers.

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Silver on Monday, February 18, 2019 11:56 AM

Use real mud.

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: N. Burbs of ChiKawgo
Posted by GlennH on Wednesday, March 20, 2019 9:04 PM

Silver

Use real mud.

 

That would probably work great but the color I want is nowhere to be found here. Parts of New Mexico yes, pretty close.

A number Army Viet Nam scans from hundreds yet to be done:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/southwestdreams/albums/72157621855914355

Have had the great fortune to be on every side of the howitzers.

  • Member since
    February 2017
Posted by ugamodels on Wednesday, March 20, 2019 10:37 PM

The color used with cement probably works too. It might even be the same thing used with plaster, as the two are very similar. 

I type on a tablet. Please excuse the terseness and the autocorrect. Not to mention the erors. 

  • Member since
    June 2004
  • From: East Stroudsburg, PA
Posted by TigerII on Saturday, March 23, 2019 3:25 PM

stikpusher

I use water and a drop or three of Future as a fixing agent. If I want more texture to my mud, I have Altoids tins full of sifted fine dirt from my yard that I add to the mixture until I get the consistency that I prefer.

 

This is the way I go with the water and Future.

Achtung Panzer! Colonel General Heinz Guderian
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