how to remove this part?

thanks for all your reply. looks like none of the solution is easy, so I just gave up. I already spent 4 weeks on the model, and do not want to take any risk. 

Don Stauffer

One advantage of CA is that a debonder is available for it. The debonder works well as long as you do not use too much excess.  A little goes a long way.  Too much and it will soften the plastic, though.

 

 

He didn't specify he used CA glue.....

The suspense is killing me. Did you get the part separated?

One advantage of CA is that a debonder is available for it. The debonder works well as long as you do not use too much excess.  A little goes a long way.  Too much and it will soften the plastic, though.

Hi;

      I use the freezer method along with what " G " suggested . What I do though, is run a NEW #11 blade backwards GENTLY ! along the join line .The new blade will find a gap if there are any .

 The only difficulty is if tube glue was used .Then use a P.E. Microsaw! T.B.

goldhammer

Might try wicking in a thin liquid cement, like Tamiya extra thin, a couple of applications over a few minute period and then wiggle it loose as it resoftens the joint.

Have done that a couple of times with minimal damage to the parts.

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I've had success with this method only using nail polish instead of cement.

 

I would use GH's method to weaken the join. If that doesn't work then using the backside of a #11 blade to gently score the join line will work too. 

That's what I would do, and be prepared to lose either the rail or the pylon.

What about using a new Nr 11 blade to score along the seam between the rail and the pylon, and removing it that way?

Might try wicking in a thin liquid cement, like Tamiya extra thin, a couple of applications over a few minute period and then wiggle it loose as it resoftens the joint.

Have done that a couple of times with minimal damage to the parts.

united2019

will other parts get loose after freezer?

No, nothing really gets 'loose.' The cold just tends to make the joint areas a little more brittle, so when you stress the joint...hopefully just the part you want to remove...it should give way more easily. (How easily will depend to a large degree on how solid the bond was to begin with. The technique works well with cement-type adhesives...less-well with 'bonding' types like Weld-On, Tenax and such.)

Once the whole thing warms up again to room temperature, the 'brittle' factor should essentially disappear.

will other parts get loose after freezer?

My personal approach would be to put it in the freezer for about two hours...helps make the glue joint brittle...then just snap it off.

Whatever method you use, there's likely to be some filling/sanding/restoration needed.