Using photo-etched parts?!?!?

Sand lightly before painting whenever possible. It gives the metal some "tooth" and allows the paint to grab it better.

Of course, model glue doesn't work. You'll have to use CA (super glue) or an epoxy to stick things together. Some folks prefer soldering too but be careful - if the part is very small you can melt it into oblivion!

Tweezers are rgeat for handeling the small bits and if you can find the locking variety even better.

When cutting, use either a high quality shear or cut against a hard surface like metal or glass with a very sharp hobby knife. Scissors will bend and distort most P.E. parts when trying to remove them fromt he sprue.

That should get you started on some of the basics.

Best advice is keep your sense of humor. You'll probably come across a phenomenom aptly named 'tweezerpult'.
Here's an old post from the Armor forum where we had some fun...
http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17408

Also have a look at Micaelvk's "A lesson in physics". http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13499 Working with PE can be frustrating, but don't let it scare you. The result is worth the effort, PE can add so much to your models.

I just blew CocaCola out my nose when I read the first thread and started laughing, and then all over my desk when I read the second one. You armor guys are just plain weird

Yeah great threads, made me laugh.
Thanks for the advice I am certain that it will be invaluble.

QUOTE: Originally posted by MusicCity You armor guys are just plain weird

Who .... us

The parts finally arrived this morning and I can't believe how fiddly they look!!! I'm absolutely dreading doing this now, hahaha!!!! I can see a lot of caffiene being involved!

Caffeine is the Arch-enemy of PE. The pieces travel exponentially with increasedintake. You'll just end up with empty part trees and a sticky forehead.

Just make sure it's CA glue (didn't read previous posts-don't know if it's allready posted)! I tried glueing the PE with tam extra thin cement before... That was a BAD DAY, believe me!!!

QUOTE: Originally posted by RichG The parts finally arrived this morning and I can't believe how fiddly they look!!! I'm absolutely dreading doing this now, hahaha!!!! I can see a lot of caffiene being involved!

Patience will have to be your best friend for this. Arm yourself with different types CA, thin, medium, and thick. When doing railings allow time for the first stanchion to cure before moving to the next.
One trick I use for really tiny parts is to put a puddle of CA on the area and "float" the part on it, push it around with a pin until its in the right location and then push it down with the pin. You can wick the excess CA away with the corner of a paper towel.
Be patient and I'm sure your endeavour will be a sucess.

Cheers for the extra tips - I'm pretty certain that the kit will look great when finished with the PE parts, it just looks like a really fiddly job. Will also be the fist ship that I will display on an 'in water' scenario so want to get it absolutely spot-on

One trick I've used with some success when using PE parts is to order about 10 extra sets. That way I don't spend all day looking for the parts that blast off into oblivion.

Seriously, I have seen a couple of real good hints on this forum. I don't remember who posted them or I'd give credit where credit is due.
1) Work with your hands inside a large plastic bag so when the parts blast off they don't go far.

2) Work over the top of your model box so when you drop them the edges of the box keep them from going far.

They do look great, but extra care is required to keep from losing them. It truly is amazing how easily they will shoot!

Cheers Scott, that tip about using the plastic bag is a great idea, I will certainly have a go using that method.

QUOTE: Originally posted by MusicCity 1) Work with your hands inside a large plastic bag so when the parts blast off they don't go far.

Where's the sport in this? It's like hunting at the ZOO.

Here's another old Armor post:
http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16898

QUOTE: Where's the sport in this? It's like hunting at the ZOO. Here's another old Armor post: http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16898

I reiterate my previous post ... you armor guys are just plain weird! Or maybe it's just that you put things into words that the rest of us just think!

QUOTE: Cheers Scott, that tip about using the plastic bag is a great idea, I will certainly have a go using that method.

As I said in my earlier post, not my idea. Whoever posted it originally is the guy to thank for it, and I don't know who it was.

I also have a couple of hints

1) invest in a thing called the hold and fold kit by a place called "The small shop". It comes with 3 black tiles for cutting on. Dowels for making your curve bends with a curve bed to help make the bends flawless. A regular razor blade and a 4 inch long blad for railings and such. The best part of it is the bending platform. It is 4 inchs long and has a reversible bending finger bed the has different shaped fingers on one side and a straight edge on the other. it screws down on to the flat bed and holds parts tight for exact bends. The full kit cost me 70 bucks but it was worth every penny. Check their stuff out on www.thesmallshop.com. They also sell the parts individually and in different sizes.

2) invest in regular masking tape. take a piece and make a circle so the sticky side is facing out. now push it down on your table or bord or box(what ever you do your cutting on) so that there is a sticky side facing up. smooth it out so there is no play in it. now lay you PE tree on top of the tape so the part you want to cut off is stuck to the tape...and by the grace of the modeling gods no more flying parts. This is also good to do when you are waiting to assemble a large assembly and need some place safe to hold your PE parts. They can't dissapear if they are stuck to tape.

You guys just plain cheat.

who me?

Ausf, that bit about the glasses frames with the funnels cracked me up. Good stuff.

The only piece of advice regarding PE that I can give you is PATIENCE, and lots of it. I have completel given up on PE as far as ship kits go. I usually work with 1/35 scale armour and 1/48 aircraft, so the PE parts for ships just killed my eyes. Lots of natural light will help the eye strain

Hi guys ive just brought a ABER panther G detail PE set can any1 plz tell me wot cyanoacryl glue is? Also this being my firts pe set how do i go about taking the parts off the sheet and bending them into shape with out having to spend a big deal of money?

Regards Fellow moddler (plz reply to cartdog2003@hotmail.com) and plz not funny virus stuff btw.

QUOTE: Originally posted by himmler Hi guys ive just brought a ABER panther G detail PE set can any1 plz tell me wot cyanoacryl glue is?

Cyanoacrylate glue is commonly sold in any hobby shop or hardware store. Most people refer to it as "Super Glue" but there are different thicknesses of them. The hobby brands such as Zap tend to work better on models than the "Household" brands.

QUOTE: Also this being my firts pe set how do i go about taking the parts off the sheet and bending them into shape with out having to spend a big deal of money?

Lay the PE sprue down on something hard, like a piece of glass or aluminum. Hold the part to be cut loose down against the surface with a finger nail, then cut it loose from the sprue with a sharp X-ACto knife. That will usually keep them from flying off into never-never land.

To bend them, hold the part down on the same hard surface with an X-Acto knife. Slip the blade of another X-Acto knife under the part and twist up carefully to bend it.

When working with PE, always be VERY, VERY careful. They are extremely easy to lose!

Cheers for all the hints and tips. I see what you mean about patience. Some of the parts are tiny - there is one piece that replaces the rotor on the back of the helicoptor - this involves removing (cutting and scrapping) the original rotor, that was no fun in 1:700 scale. Still I shall keep going, keep glueing myself to the parts, and to anything within an 800m radius!!!! Also decided the best option has been to do a few parts of the kit needing PE parts and then get on with another kit (it may save it suddenly flying across the room - assuming that I'm not glued to it!!)

QUOTE: Cheers for all the hints and tips. I see what you mean about patience

Working with these monsters is something that you just have to experience to understand. I haven't dealt with PE that much but my few experiences have been less than perfect!

Had it been me replacing that tail rotor I would have gotten the old rotor cut off so there was no going back before the PE piece decided to go blasting across the basement. They KNOW the best times to get lost!

Now you understand what you refer to as the Armor weirdness.
Our PE comes in the shape of clamps for tools, cables and such. Some clamps have four pieces and designed to be FUNCTIONAL! Now imagine trying to bend the little buggers around each other sans glue.

I'll pass, Ausf, thanks very much! My exposure to PE has been in the form of seat belt buckles, hinges, gun sights, etc. Those are enough of a pain for me, I don't need it any worse

Can I add just one more tip? This one will keep you from gluing your fingers to the PE, the PE to the table, and the model to your PE bender.

(This has probably been said on some other thread, so excuse the repetition, if so.)

I made a tool that allows me to apply just the right amount of CA to PE, etc. I bought an assortment of sewing needles from the local craft shop, and used a shop grinder to remove the very tip of the eye of the needle. A motor tool with a grinding bit would probably work as well. Wear eye protection and DON'T try to hold the needle with your fingers!!!

Grind off the solid end until the two prongs of the eye remain, forming a shape resembling a tiny tuning fork. Mount the needle in a wooden dowel or a pin vise and you have an applicator that delivers tiny amounts of CA. You can make an assortment of sizes and shapes by using various sizes of and styles of needles. Don't forget that the strongest bonds form where there is only a very thin film of CA between the part and the attachment surface.

To use the tool you put a drop of CA on some masking tape, or some other disposable material, then use the needle to wick up a tiny amount of CA. Hold the PE part in place with tweezers (the kind that stay together UNLESS you squeeze them apart), then touch the edge of the joint with the CA-filled needle end. The perfect amount of CA is drawn by capillary attraction into the joint. Still holding the tweezers with one hand, dip an old paintbrush in CA accelerator and touch the brush to the joint to set the CA.

Only a tiny amount of CA is applied and no excess dribbles down the model or onto your fingers. The drop of CA on the masking tape stays liquid for quite a while allowing you to attach two or three parts before replenishing. Be sure to touch the needle to a paper towel when finished or the CA will solidify in the eye, which requires digging out with an old hobby knife.

I can't remember if I invented this technique myself or read about it somewhere else, but it works great for me.

Cheers ChemMan, that is a great idea - sounds like it needs some time to set up but seems well worth the effort. I suppose that the needles could be used effectivly to help guide parts into place (along with the aid of tweezers).

QUOTE: Originally posted by MusicCity 1) Work with your hands inside a large plastic bag so when the parts blast off they don't go far.

Personally, I would not work inside the bag ( only your hands, I mean ) as it is easier to cut the PE THROUGH the bag, yes, the one that came with PE inside.

Only a path to explore