Can I add just one more tip? This one will keep you from gluing your fingers to the PE, the PE to the table, and the model to your PE bender.
(This has probably been said on some other thread, so excuse the repetition, if so.)
I made a tool that allows me to apply just the right amount of CA to PE, etc. I bought an assortment of sewing needles from the local craft shop, and used a shop grinder to remove the very tip of the eye of the needle. A motor tool with a grinding bit would probably work as well. Wear eye protection and DON'T try to hold the needle with your fingers!!!
Grind off the solid end until the two prongs of the eye remain, forming a shape resembling a tiny tuning fork. Mount the needle in a wooden dowel or a pin vise and you have an applicator that delivers tiny amounts of CA. You can make an assortment of sizes and shapes by using various sizes of and styles of needles. Don't forget that the strongest bonds form where there is only a very thin film of CA between the part and the attachment surface.
To use the tool you put a drop of CA on some masking tape, or some other disposable material, then use the needle to wick up a tiny amount of CA. Hold the PE part in place with tweezers (the kind that stay together UNLESS you squeeze them apart), then touch the edge of the joint with the CA-filled needle end. The perfect amount of CA is drawn by capillary attraction into the joint. Still holding the tweezers with one hand, dip an old paintbrush in CA accelerator and touch the brush to the joint to set the CA.
Only a tiny amount of CA is applied and no excess dribbles down the model or onto your fingers. The drop of CA on the masking tape stays liquid for quite a while allowing you to attach two or three parts before replenishing. Be sure to touch the needle to a paper towel when finished or the CA will solidify in the eye, which requires digging out with an old hobby knife.
I can't remember if I invented this technique myself or read about it somewhere else, but it works great for me.