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Tojo72 When I read the subject line,I was really wondering what we were talking about here.Maybe what to do when you accidently glue your fingers to your leg,or worse Really I thought you were talking figures
When I read the subject line,I was really wondering what we were talking about here.Maybe what to do when you accidently glue your fingers to your leg,or worse
Really I thought you were talking figures
You and me both, Tojo. :D
Just so happens I do have the orange top.
Couple coats of thin should give you 15-20 seconds. Orange top would give you more time, if you have it, but I wouldn't get a bottle just for that.
Thanks all for help. If I apply the extra thin to both halves of the piece how long until it starts to set? I might try the tabs too. That's a good idea.
Keavdog,
Nice of you to to take the time and look at the instructions. I spent time detailing the engine so the cover will not be glued.
One comment about adding tabs.
Sometimes the two parts are not molded in the same thickness, where the outside of the assembly is to be smooth across the joint but the inside is not.
Be sure to check this before adding tabs.
Bill
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
If there are visible seams in an assembly, I do not paint until seam is glued, sanded/filed, and filled. There are always ways to fill big cavities and openings.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
wpwar11If the parts werent painted this would be a job for Tamiya extra thin but that won't work on painted pieces.
Beautifully engineered kit, needs all of your best thinking to make it the best you can do.
What goldhammer said. Maybe try both, Tamiya thin on both surfaces and if you have a coulple tabs glued on that will help with alignment. Looking at the instructions I'd say the engine cover shouldn't be glued so you can remove to look at the engine.
Thanks,
John
If the mating surfaces are clean, brush on a couple of applications of extra thin on both halves and then locate and secure. If you're careful with glue, shouldn't mess up the paint.
Another option might be to glue a strip of styrene on the inside if it has a relatively flat seam area, to use as a glue block. Apply glue to inside of other piece and assemble.
If you have access to the inside, may be able to hold or tape together and wick thin on the inside of the parts.
It's the March 88C Kraco car driven by Michael Andretti. Kit 6713.
Which kit is it?
I currently on an old AMT Ertle indycar kit. I'm at the point where I need to glue the upper front body to the lower floor assembly. Both parts are painted. I tried this with super glue already and made quit a mess. I was able to get the parts separated and started sanding the mating surfaces free of glue and paint. What's the best glue or technique for this? If it helps, there is only one pin and hole on the very front nose piece. The rest of the join is just surface to surface. If the parts werent painted this would be a job for Tamiya extra thin but that won't work on painted pieces.
Thanks.
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