Need Tip In Sprue Cutting

hmm, interesting, i think you are probably right, cos i read about the plastic manufacturing from a magazine about industrial plastic, so its probably different. now i know !

QUOTE: Originally posted by reggiethedorf dunking in future will help prevent splintering. out of curiosity, does anyone know why clear plastic is brittle, and colored sprue isnt ? the plastic is actually clear to start with, they only add color pellets later in the plastic-making process. but why would the clear be more brittle ?

it's what they make the plastic out of that makes it different. Styrene is the colored parts... if I remember right (and probably don't so don' t be surprised to see a correction to this later) clear pieces are made out of butyrate or Vivak which is a co-polyesther.

dunking in future will help prevent splintering.

out of curiosity, does anyone know why clear plastic is brittle, and colored sprue isnt ? the plastic is actually clear to start with, they only add color pellets later in the plastic-making process. but why would the clear be more brittle ?

A couple passes with a jeweler's saw does the trick for me. I'm careful not to cut too close to the piece tho and hit it once or twice with a manicurists sanding stick.

Dennis

Zip Zip Zip, cut cut cut, and a couple of tra lahlah's, thats the very sound of it when you use your dremel as a saw.......

Also, if you have room when cutting the sprue, lightly hold the spot where the sprue joins the part between your fingers. That lets your fingers absorb some of the shock when the sprue cuts and prevents it from breaking off. Clear plastic is very brittle, for some reason, and you have to exercise a little more care.

Big toe nail cutters will work too. I use the big ones and smaller ones, then sand when I get close to the part.
G.L.

Thanks for the tips guys.

HEY,
I have these wire cutter things and i cut the sprue close to the peice but not too close an take my dremel or sand paper or even my hobby knife and take care of the rest.

Randy

Exactly, woodbeck3.

With smaller parts, thin parts, or clear parts, I always cut through the sprue between 1/8" and 1/4" (sometimes more) away from the part. Then, with the part seperated and all the tension off the connections, you can nibble away the remaining sprue at each connection point. Sometimes I will leave 1/16" of the connector on the part and sand the rest away from that point.

Enjoy your modeling...

Well what ya wanna do is snip it with a large piece sprue on then snip it down in pieces. when you get close tot he clear part sand the rest.