SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

New technique I just tried on a canopy

863 views
8 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    March 2011
New technique I just tried on a canopy
Posted by stram8777 on Friday, March 11, 2005 5:12 PM
I spent an hour easy masking the canopy on my corsair project. Well I tried a method I don't normally use for masking I tried using Masking tape cut VERY thin. Well I was very happy with the masking and decided to go ahead and paint. I am using Tamiya Acrylics. Well I painted it interior color then exterior color and thought great I am finally gonna have a good canopy. Well as I started to remove masking material I noticed some of the paint bled through. After lots of colorful language I got to thinking. I had been using regular windex for removing acrylic paint so I put two and two together. I took out a handy dandy Q-tip and cut the stick off at an angle just below the cotton bud. After dipping the stick in windex it was perfect for removing the extra paint. and if the paint windex pooled i just used the cut off cotton bud to soak it up. After I finished touching up my canopy and a quick dip in future all was well. Maybe someone might benefit from this.

I wanted to share this since I have gotten so many great tips here. Just trying to give a little back.

Bob
  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: Buffalo NY
Posted by Thehannaman2 on Friday, March 11, 2005 5:42 PM
That's an interesting discovery. i see myself trying think since I ALWAYS have paint bleeding on canopies. THX!

Justen

"The distance between genius and insanity is measured only by success."

Member IPMS Niagara Frontier. "The BuffCon Boys."

IPMSUSA Member 45680 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Saturday, March 12, 2005 7:18 AM
thanks! good advice! it's a little more expensive but I've found very little bleed through using tamiya modeling tape...
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Cincinnati, OH
Posted by MA Cooke on Sunday, March 13, 2005 8:04 AM
To refer back to another well-known modeler here (who shall remain nameless), here's a suggestion: once you're done masking, spray a coat of future first, this will "seal up" the tape edges and prevent paint bleed through.

However, I like your suggestion and will keep it in mind. Thanks for posting!
On Bench: AM P-51B, Tamiya 1/48 F4U-1A On Deck: Hasegawa F-14's (too many); Tamiya P-47D; Academy P-47N;
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: A Spartan in the Wolverine State
Posted by rjkplasticmod on Sunday, March 13, 2005 10:03 AM
I use Tamiya tape, sliced into thin strips, then burnished. Rarely have a problem with bleed.

Regards, Rick
RICK At My Age, I've Seen It All, Done It All, But I Don't Remember It All...
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Washington State
Posted by leemitcheltree on Tuesday, March 15, 2005 8:10 AM
Bob,
I use Bare Metal Foil for the masking and I never, ever have bleed-through.
Just make sure you burnish down the foil before you paint.
It's easy, extremely fast - no hour long masking session to get it right - just cover the canopy (a very quick operation) - burnish down the foil - then use a new #11 blade to cut the foil using the frames as a guide and remove the bits you need to remove - burnish down the foil again, and then spray.
Use the #11 again to lightly re-trace the frames once the paint is dry, and remove the foil. Perfect frames every time.
One very good thing about using the BMF is that the foil edge is extremely thin - most forms of tape will have a measurable thickness - this can allow the paint to form a fillet or radius along the edge of the tape - but the BMF is so thin that this just can't happen.
Try it - you'll never use anything else for canopies.

Cheers, LeeTree
Remember, Safety Fast!!!

  • Member since
    March 2011
Posted by stram8777 on Tuesday, March 15, 2005 4:32 PM
Thanks for the tip with Bare Metal Foil. I have been a little intimidated by the BMF before. But maybe with your recomendation I will try it out. I am working on a P-61 right now and I have been dreading the Canopies. Maybe the BMF will make life easy.

By the way Where do you get BMF? What does the packaging look like I mean? I have seen some stuff I thought was bmf at Hobby Lobby but it was pretty expensive.

Also what should I use as a burnishing tool? Should I buy a BMF burnishing tool or is there something else more common I can use effectively?
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Washington State
Posted by leemitcheltree on Wednesday, March 16, 2005 1:24 AM
Bob,
Mate, Bare Metal Foil can be purchased directly from the company that makes it. Have a look at:
http://www.bare-metal.com/
Don't be intimidated by the stuff - it's dead easy to use and once you've used it, you'll kick yourself for not having tried it before this, it's so easy.
It comes in an envelope a little smaller than an A4 sheet - and I must admit it's not the cheapest thing in the world, but it's worth every penny, believe me.
For a burnishing tool, I use several things......Q-tips are fantastic - and I also have taken a toothpick and cut one end to a chisel point and sanded the other to a round end. These ends are great for getting the foil to conform to just about any surface.
Sure, buy the BMF burnishing tool if you want - but I just use what's at hand - it's cheaper, too.
Mate, if you have any other questions, just ask - don't be shy - remember, there are NO stupid questions. If you don't know, then you don't find out until you ask the question. Easy.

Cheers, LeeTree
Remember, Safety Fast!!!

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 17, 2005 8:31 AM
I use the same method as described before with BMF, though I do this with Tamiya tape (I don't like BMF, simply doesn't/won't work for me). For the result I don't think it really matters; probably just what suits you best.

In addition to this i mask the interior as well. Certainly when the aircraft is bigger and/or has more window surface, the inside should be painted inside, and not as a base coat on the exterior.

Cutting along edges won't work, as often (always) only the exterior can be traced with a knife. So, I retrace along the outside, take the tape from the window and put it on the inside. Note that you'll need a symmetrical window to do this. Having done this, do the same again for the outside. Within minutes any complicated or simple window is masked.

Note that heavily bent and curved surfaces, in combination with thick moulded canopies, need some extra attention. In that case, the interior surface of the window is significantly smaller than the outside so that the masking is slightly too large. Correct this with a knife freely. It is the interior, which is hidden somewhat anyway...

O, and be carefull with thin vacformed canopies. You don't want to put your knife through the intire canopies ending up with a 'crashed canopy'.
JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.