New technique I just tried on a canopy

I use the same method as described before with BMF, though I do this with Tamiya tape (I don't like BMF, simply doesn't/won't work for me). For the result I don't think it really matters; probably just what suits you best.

In addition to this i mask the interior as well. Certainly when the aircraft is bigger and/or has more window surface, the inside should be painted inside, and not as a base coat on the exterior.

Cutting along edges won't work, as often (always) only the exterior can be traced with a knife. So, I retrace along the outside, take the tape from the window and put it on the inside. Note that you'll need a symmetrical window to do this. Having done this, do the same again for the outside. Within minutes any complicated or simple window is masked.

Note that heavily bent and curved surfaces, in combination with thick moulded canopies, need some extra attention. In that case, the interior surface of the window is significantly smaller than the outside so that the masking is slightly too large. Correct this with a knife freely. It is the interior, which is hidden somewhat anyway...

O, and be carefull with thin vacformed canopies. You don't want to put your knife through the intire canopies ending up with a 'crashed canopy'.

Bob,
Mate, Bare Metal Foil can be purchased directly from the company that makes it. Have a look at:
http://www.bare-metal.com/
Don't be intimidated by the stuff - it's dead easy to use and once you've used it, you'll kick yourself for not having tried it before this, it's so easy.
It comes in an envelope a little smaller than an A4 sheet - and I must admit it's not the cheapest thing in the world, but it's worth every penny, believe me.
For a burnishing tool, I use several things......Q-tips are fantastic - and I also have taken a toothpick and cut one end to a chisel point and sanded the other to a round end. These ends are great for getting the foil to conform to just about any surface.
Sure, buy the BMF burnishing tool if you want - but I just use what's at hand - it's cheaper, too.
Mate, if you have any other questions, just ask - don't be shy - remember, there are NO stupid questions. If you don't know, then you don't find out until you ask the question. Easy.

Thanks for the tip with Bare Metal Foil. I have been a little intimidated by the BMF before. But maybe with your recomendation I will try it out. I am working on a P-61 right now and I have been dreading the Canopies. Maybe the BMF will make life easy.

By the way Where do you get BMF? What does the packaging look like I mean? I have seen some stuff I thought was bmf at Hobby Lobby but it was pretty expensive.

Also what should I use as a burnishing tool? Should I buy a BMF burnishing tool or is there something else more common I can use effectively?

Bob,
I use Bare Metal Foil for the masking and I never, ever have bleed-through.
Just make sure you burnish down the foil before you paint.
It's easy, extremely fast - no hour long masking session to get it right - just cover the canopy (a very quick operation) - burnish down the foil - then use a new #11 blade to cut the foil using the frames as a guide and remove the bits you need to remove - burnish down the foil again, and then spray.
Use the #11 again to lightly re-trace the frames once the paint is dry, and remove the foil. Perfect frames every time.
One very good thing about using the BMF is that the foil edge is extremely thin - most forms of tape will have a measurable thickness - this can allow the paint to form a fillet or radius along the edge of the tape - but the BMF is so thin that this just can't happen.
Try it - you'll never use anything else for canopies.

I use Tamiya tape, sliced into thin strips, then burnished. Rarely have a problem with bleed.

Regards, Rick

To refer back to another well-known modeler here (who shall remain nameless), here's a suggestion: once you're done masking, spray a coat of future first, this will "seal up" the tape edges and prevent paint bleed through.

However, I like your suggestion and will keep it in mind. Thanks for posting!

thanks! good advice! it's a little more expensive but I've found very little bleed through using tamiya modeling tape...

That's an interesting discovery. i see myself trying think since I ALWAYS have paint bleeding on canopies. THX!