Washes problem

ya they are so many ways to do it, i have try with pastel adding a slight amount of flat base and future, stirred it well n drybrush on the model, the result came out pretty good, the pastel tend to stick into the model giving it a quite realistic finish.

and mixing pastel with soap and water for washes, i think i musr apply future first then the washes . i have lean quite a lot from this forum , thanks everyone.

Grifter123 wrote:

Artists oils are the way to go.  I too have tried every method out there and nothing performs like oils...not even enamels.  I have also switched to oils for drybrushing, but that's an whole 'nother topic.  I've thinned the oils with white spirit (paint thinner, turpentine, whatever you want to call it) or lighter fluid.  The lighter fluid is nice because it evaporates quickly, but the oils separate from it faster too.  The white spirit works good too, but takes longer to dry and smells stronger.  The oils will stay dissolved in the white spirit longer.

Artists oils are the way to go.  I too have tried every method out there and nothing performs like oils...not even enamels.  I have also switched to oils for drybrushing, but that's an whole 'nother topic.  I've thinned the oils with white spirit (paint thinner, turpentine, whatever you want to call it) or lighter fluid.  The lighter fluid is nice because it evaporates quickly, but the oils separate from it faster too.  The white spirit works good too, but takes longer to dry and smells stronger.  The oils will stay dissolved in the white spirit longer.

I tried doing the weathering on the underside of a little Corsair. The left side using a sludge wash, the right side using thinned enamel.

The thinned enamel looked better. The pigment went into the panel lines more readily, and the color was darker.

albert_sy2 wrote:

My favorite method at the moment is the thinned enamel method....Use a Q-tip moistened with enamel thinner to remove the excess stuff. Voila!

I've tried them all: sludge wash, pencil, thinned enamel.

My favorite method at the moment is the thinned enamel method.

Thin some Tamiya XF-1 flat black with enamel thinner in a 1:10 ratio (enamel to thinner).

Apply into the area panel lines. Let dry for a few minutes. Use a Q-tip moistened with enamel thinner to remove the excess stuff. Voila!

Use pastel powder, dry, to simulate smoke and dirt stains etc. (You don't wipe these off, and it's best to do this on a flat coat) - I use a short stiff brush for this.

Use the pastel powder wet (w/ soap) as a wash to get into recessed panel lines. (Here, as Phil_H says, you wipe-off, the idea being, the wash stays in the recessed panel lines.) It's best to do this on a glossy surface (Future). (If you do it on a flat surface, the wash will not wipe off...) - To wipe, I use a Q-tip that is BARELY moist with Windex. If it's to damp, you will wipe the wash out of the panel lines. You can also use a BARELY moist paper towel that is folded and compressed flat, again the idea is you don't want to wipe off the wash in the panel lines.

Both methods take a bit of practice and persistance to get the effect you desire.

Another option is to use a mechanical pencil to draw in the panel lines. Use an eraser if you mess up.

One more tip - If you want to get a FINE panel line. Scribe the line with a slightly dull exacto blade. Then lightly run a pencil across the line. Then rub gently with your finger. The graphite should leave a very fine line behind. Use an eraser if you mess up.

Remember to Future or flat coat after you are done, becuase you might accidentally rub off your work if you handle the model too much.

lizhen wrote:

i am using water plus soap n pastel, but it seem that the pastel dun tend to stick on it.. when i rub if off, the black pastel disappear

I may be missing something here, but....

Isn't that what you wanted? Your first post said you couldn't get rid of the excess wash. Now you're saying it rubs off.

Well...  It's supposed to rub off the places where you don't want it and stay in the panel lines and around the details you want to highlight. If it's all coming off when you remove the excess then you may be wiping too hard or the rag/cloth/paper towel you're wiping with may be too damp.

Phil_H wrote:

Someone will probably correct me on this but I think it's 4 parts Tamiya Clear (X-22) to one part Flat Base (X-21) to make a "flat" top coat.

No correction necessary Phil, my understanding is a 4:1 ratio as well.

lizhen wrote:

i mean i added the tamiya x-21 base coat with water n pastel n a bit of washing detergent.

ahhh....

The old Tamiya Flat base (X-21) issue. It's not meant to be used for anything other than as an additive (in small amounts) to Tamiya gloss paint or clear gloss to give it a flat finish. Don't try to use it on its own as a "top coat" either - all you will get is a powdery white layer on top of your paint. It is merely a "flattening" agent - not a clear coat in its own right.

Someone will probably correct me on this but I think it's 4 parts Tamiya Clear (X-22) to one part Flat Base (X-21) to make a "flat" top coat.

ok thanks a lot. i will apply future n then the washes again... :)

lizhen wrote:

...i use...and a bit of top coat ...