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Tamiya Acrylic range - lack of colours?

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: NYC, USA
Posted by waikong on Tuesday, December 9, 2008 1:47 PM
just a further comment about covering with white. I find that white covers much better if you lay down a primer coat of a light neutral color. I usually use Tamiya 'white' (lt grey) primer in a spray can myself. THe stuff stinks to high heaven, but covers well and a white coat goes over that really nicely.
  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Posted by Milairjunkie on Saturday, December 6, 2008 11:41 AM

Bgrigg, thanks for the advice & link. It would seem that Tamiya & Gunze are compatabe, that sorts out Tamiyas limited range if it ever does become a problem. Guess I better get the C/Card out.

Thanks all.

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Saturday, December 6, 2008 8:13 AM

I use Tamiya exclusively and while you do have to mix up certain colors, I find it not so hard to do. Here's a new paint chart I found that might help you out. Use the online one, you can show and hide columns and sort by brand. You'll have to turn on Tamiya as it's not shown as default. You might find that the colors you are looking for aren't that far off.

I find Tamiya to be an excellent airbrush paint, and with patience it brushes on nicely. 

Vallejo is reputed to be an excellent paint, but not available locally. When I want paint, I want it NOW!

Gunze Acrylic is also not available locally, but people I know who use it claim it's interchangable with Tamiya.

 

So long folks!

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: london-uk
Posted by ludwig113 on Saturday, December 6, 2008 7:29 AM
 Milairjunkie wrote:

Thanks guys, I have done a bit more looking on the WWW & it seems that I can also get Gunze & Vallejo acrylics online. Having read what I can find in the way of reviews, I have found;

Tamiya - Good all round performer, but with limited range.

Vallejo - mixed reviews, good range, adhesion & drying issues, not sure about "pre thinned".

Gunze - good colour range, thin, dont know much more.

Any of your pro's / con's welcome.

 

I am still tempted by Tamiya, but no one has really commented on their colours yet? As an example of this query, I have a Revell B-1B & Avro Vulcan to paint in camo, with colours advised that Tamiya dont seem to do being;

Bone: Grey FS36081 (Revell Matt mouse grey 47)

Vulcan: Dark Green (humbrol 163) & Medium Sea Grey (Humbrol 165)

Like said, I am not interested in perfect match - just something that looks about right, so will Tamiya do the job without to much mixing?

this link might help a few people

http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelair&p3=1#modelairinfo

it gives equivilant colours across various paint makers.

paul

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Posted by Milairjunkie on Saturday, December 6, 2008 6:55 AM

Thanks guys, I have done a bit more looking on the WWW & it seems that I can also get Gunze & Vallejo acrylics online. Having read what I can find in the way of reviews, I have found;

Tamiya - Good all round performer, but with limited range.

Vallejo - mixed reviews, good range, adhesion & drying issues, not sure about "pre thinned".

Gunze - good colour range, thin, dont know much more.

Any of your pro's / con's welcome.

 

I am still tempted by Tamiya, but no one has really commented on their colours yet? As an example of this query, I have a Revell B-1B & Avro Vulcan to paint in camo, with colours advised that Tamiya dont seem to do being;

Bone: Grey FS36081 (Revell Matt mouse grey 47)

Vulcan: Dark Green (humbrol 163) & Medium Sea Grey (Humbrol 165)

Like said, I am not interested in perfect match - just something that looks about right, so will Tamiya do the job without to much mixing?

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Friday, December 5, 2008 7:15 PM
 Milairjunkie wrote:

I'm not totally stuck on Tamiya, but would prefer to go the single brand way for compatability, consistency & all that - it has to be acrylic though.

The only other brands that appeal & seem to be available (to me anyway)  are Tamiya, Mr Colour & Vallejio. Regardless of what I decide on, it will be mail order. Like said I would prefer availabilty & ease of use over perfect colour match.

Thanks. 

"Mr Color" isn't an aqueous acrylic - it's a lacquer based system. Mr Color are the jars with a "paddle topped" lid.

Gunze's aqueous range come in small, squat bottles nearly identical to Tamiya's small 10ml jars with a similar shaped cap. The aqueous range has a good selection of colours, including some specific FS matches and some specific RAF matches (eg. "Hemp", "Barley Grey" amongst others). Gunze's aqueous acrylics are similar in properties to Tamiya's. They airbrush exceptionally well but can be a little tricky to brush paint because they dry very quickly, causing similar problems to Tamiya when brush-painting. Quite a lot of Gunze's "flat" colours are actually  semi-gloss, compared to Tamiya's which are dead flat.

I've just started using Vallejo acrylics and I'm liking them so far, though I haven't uesd them extensively yet.   

PS: Gunze's acrylic clear flat (H-20) is highly recommended.

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Friday, December 5, 2008 1:20 PM

That tears it.... I'm going to have try this, this.. Vallejo stuff... That's about the thousandth post about the stuff..

I fear change though...

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: london-uk
Posted by ludwig113 on Friday, December 5, 2008 11:57 AM
 Milairjunkie wrote:

I'm not totally stuck on Tamiya, but would prefer to go the single brand way for compatability, consistency & all that - it has to be acrylic though.

The only other brands that appeal & seem to be available (to me anyway)  are Tamiya, Mr Colour & Vallejio. Regardless of what I decide on, it will be mail order. Like said I would prefer availabilty & ease of use over perfect colour match.

Thanks. 

hi,

vallejo are really easy to use and are available everywhere and i'd recommend them.

make sure you buy the "model air" range for the airbrush.

paul

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Posted by Milairjunkie on Friday, December 5, 2008 10:47 AM

I'm not totally stuck on Tamiya, but would prefer to go the single brand way for compatability, consistency & all that - it has to be acrylic though.

The only other brands that appeal & seem to be available (to me anyway)  are Tamiya, Mr Colour & Vallejio. Regardless of what I decide on, it will be mail order. Like said I would prefer availabilty & ease of use over perfect colour match.

Thanks. 

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Friday, December 5, 2008 9:24 AM
Are you hung up on Tamiya or can you get access to other manufacturer's colors, like the ones found in craft stores and such?  There's a lot more than Tamiya for acryllics.  And a lot of colors of the craft-types are the same as military colors, they just have these goofy "chick names"...

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Tamiya Acrylic range - lack of colours?
Posted by Milairjunkie on Wednesday, December 3, 2008 6:14 PM

Sorry to beat on about paint brands again, I thought that I was 100% decided on Tamiya acrylic, but have noticed several not-so-clever comments on the range of colours available?

I will be making post war military aircraft, mostly western & imagine most will be 60s>80s US & UK subjects. I will not be seeking colour mach perfection & dont really want to get involved mixing to match - will the Tamiya acrylic range give me something that will do the job reasonably without having to start mixing?

I have re-posted this in the hope someone can advise (please).

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Oklahoma City
Posted by Mixael on Tuesday, December 2, 2008 7:42 PM

I personally use Future (mainly) for clear parts...dipping them in Future then wicking off the excess and allowing to air dry overnight produces a seemingly crystal clear part that looks MUCH thinner than it really is.  AWESOME for cockpits, making lenses etc for instrument panels, car windshields, and stuff like that.  I sometimes apply it in isolated areas for decals, but that depends.

 

Of course, you have to decide for yourself if it's worth it.  I would suggest getting some to experiment with the clear parts, as the price isn't very high, and will last for quite some time.

 

Michael 

We could change the world, but God won't give us the source code!
  • Member since
    October 2008
Posted by Seacondor on Monday, December 1, 2008 8:50 PM
Thanks Phil that has given me the answer I needed. I'm not concerned about the cost so I will go with the X-22
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Monday, December 1, 2008 5:58 PM

Hi Seacondor,

I haven't found a suitable substitute for Future either. I did post up a reply in your thread asking about it here: /forums/1020929/ShowPost.aspx I've only had marginal results with the supermarket alternatives.

Keep in mind that although a lot of people swear by it, Future is merely an inexpensive alternative to "hobby" branded clear coats. In the absence of a cheap alternative, when I need to use a gloss coat, I just use Tamiya clear acrylic (X-22).

  • Member since
    October 2008
Posted by Seacondor on Monday, December 1, 2008 4:20 PM

 Phil_H wrote:
Ahh, yes...

Of the two, the white would certainly be the easier to start with.

I do urge you to get a feel for it "off model" before you tackle the real deal. You do need to get a sense of how the paint behaves when it hits the surface, and as I mentioned previously, how it behaves around moulded details.

Good Luck, and may your first airbrushing project be a success. Smile [:)]

 

Phil_H

What do you use instead of Future? I can't seem to find that in Australia.

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Posted by Milairjunkie on Monday, December 1, 2008 9:38 AM

I do plan to do a fair bit (lots) of scrap testing before I start using the airbrush for real. While the XB-70 may not be an ideal start due to its colour, it is reasonably flat surfaced & bare of detail, so if needs be, it will be pretty easy to strip.

Cheers.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Monday, December 1, 2008 7:28 AM
Ahh, yes...

Of the two, the white would certainly be the easier to start with.

I do urge you to get a feel for it "off model" before you tackle the real deal. You do need to get a sense of how the paint behaves when it hits the surface, and as I mentioned previously, how it behaves around moulded details.

Good Luck, and may your first airbrushing project be a success. Smile [:)]
  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Posted by Milairjunkie on Monday, December 1, 2008 7:09 AM
Phil-H - I appreciate the comment regarding the difficulty of using white paint, but the only other model I have at a ready to paint stage is a 1/72 B-58. Something tells me that the white, while being difficult will be easier than the multishaded NMF finish of the B-58?
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Monday, December 1, 2008 5:59 AM
 Milairjunkie wrote:
 I have noticed more than a few of you complain regards the price of the X20-A thinner. Are larger than 46ml bottles available from Tamiya, or can I go with something else (I think the X20-A has a retarder as well?)?

Can water be used for wash down with Tamiya acrylics?

Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinner can be had in 250ml jugs. Here in Australia, they run to about $9.00-$10.00, compared with 25x 10ml jars @ $3.00 = $75.00.

As an alternative to Tamiya's thinner, I usually use methylated spirits, which, here in Australia is about 90%-95% ethyl alcohol. This works with flat colours, but less so with the gloss colours as it seems to knock the sheen off, sometimes giving a semi-gloss finish. For gloss colours I use Tamiya thinners.

I also use metho for cleaning, saving the Tamiya thinner for painiting only.

You have chosen perhaps one of the most difficult colours to airbrush (from any manufacturer) for your first project. As already suggested, practice on an old kit or something unimportant before tackling your main project. Get a feel for how your airbrush lays down the paint.

When airbrushig white especially, watch out for "hard" edges moulded on your model. White paint often has a tendency to "pull" back from edges and into ridges and recesses. Apply in multiple thin coats, allowing to dry in between. Applying heavy coats only seems to accentuate the "pulling" problem. 

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: USA
Posted by Lacquer Head on Sunday, November 30, 2008 9:16 PM

Congratulations! You are going to have a first class airbrush system. That Infinity airbrush is beautiful. It should last you a lifetime. I have heard that they are great airbrushes. You made a good choice.

I have a Badger 100LG for fine detail and a Iwata Revolution CR for everything else. Back in 1995 when I got back into the hobby, I bought a Badger 175. I thought that airbrushes where like spray cans, just pull back on the trigger and blast that paint on. The first model I painted was a 1/32th Fokker Dr1. I must have sprayed two ounces of paint on that thing.Big Smile [:D] As my skill improved so did my control. Yesterday I preshaded the panel lines of a 1/48th ME-109 with 3 drops of paint and 3 drops of thinner with my Badger 100LG. The best part of owning a airbrush is that you never stop learning, there is always something new to try.

"Lacquer Head feeds his one desire, Lacquer Head sets his brain on fire."

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Posted by Milairjunkie on Sunday, November 30, 2008 8:06 PM

The one I ordered on Friday!

Its the H&S Infinity 2in1 kit, along with a Revell master class compressor;

Revell Models Master Class Compressor Image

I have been after an Infinity for about a year now (trying to justify the price to myself) after reading nothing but good reviews on it, & opted for a Revell (re-branded Sparmax?) compressor as it was on a 20% off deal.

I have never airbrushed before, but I am back into the hobby for the long haul, so I didn't see the point in going for cheap stuff as I would imagine that its a surefire way of getting frustrated & would eventually be replaced with decent stuff anyway.

Im quite excited about all this, although I dont have a clue what I am doing (like you couldn't tell from my questions).

Thanks.

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: USA
Posted by Lacquer Head on Sunday, November 30, 2008 6:58 PM

I thin my Tamiya paint with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol, you can find it at a chemist or drug store. You also need some acrylic retarder, you can find it at a craft store or artist shop. I use Golden Acrylic Retarder. Put paint into your brush, put in 1 or 2 drops of retarder in and stir it up. This slows down the drying time and allows the paint to flow. You can use Tamiya thinner if you want to, but this way is cheaper.

Yes you can clean up with warm water, but I have found that Windex Glass Cleaner works alot better.

I would get 2 bottles of white and 2 bottles of flat black to start with. These are two of the most used colors, so you will use them at a later date. You will be using them to mix shades of gray also.

I see no reason to do a silver undercoat, just primer, basecoat, future till smooth, decals, future to seal, weather, then topcoat.

By the way what kind of airbrush do you have?

"Lacquer Head feeds his one desire, Lacquer Head sets his brain on fire."

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Posted by Milairjunkie on Sunday, November 30, 2008 6:04 PM

More thanks due.

I have decided to go with Tamiya acrylic, as it seems to be the easiest to get hold of. I have noticed more than a few of you complain regards the price of the X20-A thinner. Are larger than 46ml bottles available from Tamiya, or can I go with something else (I think the X20-A has a retarder as well?)?

Can water be used for wash down with Tamiya acrylics?

My first A/C to paint will be a 1/72 XB-70, which is quite a large model - I have no conception of how much paint I will need to finish this?

Re. painting the XB-70, I am figuring the best course would be grey primer, silver undercoat, white matt colour coat, future, decals & possibly a gloss or mid gloss coat - does this sound about correct?

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wherever the hunt takes me
Posted by Boba Fett on Sunday, November 30, 2008 2:36 PM
I believe it's Johnson's Klear floor wax. It's named in one of the recent FSM's.

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: USA
Posted by Lacquer Head on Sunday, November 30, 2008 2:25 PM

Future will leave a glossy finish. When you do your final topcoat, you can use a flat or semigloss topcoat. Testors makes a flat and a semigloss topcoat. I use Krylon matt and satin sprays, I don't know if you can get these brands in the U.K. You may have to find an acrylic topcoat.

I think Future is called Klear in the U.K.

"Lacquer Head feeds his one desire, Lacquer Head sets his brain on fire."

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Posted by Milairjunkie on Sunday, November 30, 2008 8:32 AM

Thanks guys.

Would I be correct in thinking that future will give a semi-gloss finish? & does anyone know what the trade name for Future is in the UK?

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: USA
Posted by Lacquer Head on Saturday, November 29, 2008 10:48 PM

Welcome to the wild, wild world of airbrushing.

I use both enamels and acrylics, I don't limit myself to one type or one brand of paint. I use Tamiya, Humbrol, Testors, Model Masters and Floquil paints. One brand may have a better color for the subject that I'm painting at the time. When you are just starting out buy just a couple of bottles of paint of each brand to find which one works best for you. Buy some black and white and practice painting on soda pop bottles, milk cartons and cans. Mix the black and white to make different shades of gray, the gray scale is very important in modelling. I've been airbrushing for 13 years and I still practice all the time. The airbrush is easy to learn, but takes a lifetime to master.

First paint your model with a flat basecoat. Then when dry lay on a gloss coat and apply your decals. If you apply the decals on a flat finish they will silver. After the decals dry lay on another gloss coat to seal them. Weather your model and seal it with dullcote.

I have never used Revell or Colour for aircraft, so I can't help you with that.

Good luck and practice, practice, practice.

"Lacquer Head feeds his one desire, Lacquer Head sets his brain on fire."

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Saturday, November 29, 2008 10:45 PM
I use the Tamiya acrylics almost exclusively, since Gunze colors are next to impossible to get anymore.  I usually thin them with Tamiya thinner, which contains a retarder to help the colors smooth out to a more glossy sheen.  They are still pretty flat though, so I usually use Future before decals.  Just my My 2 cents [2c]...

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wherever the hunt takes me
Posted by Boba Fett on Saturday, November 29, 2008 9:30 PM
Well, you didn't mention them but I love Model Master Acryl. Easy to find, and I like how they airbrush. Don't like Tamya 'cause they have a wierd oder. Yuck [yuck]. Just my My 2 cents [2c]. Hope it helped!

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