Compressor Recommendations?

Iwata Smart-jet. I've got one and it's beautiful! Quiet too. IT has all 3 things you want, but it's a bit pricey.

Either a SmartJet or look at a CO2 tank system.

I got the 1/8 hp airbrush compressor from Harbor Freight for $59, with an adjustable regulator / moisture trap. It is very quite and runs up to 30psi with no pulsating. It has rubber feet and has not moved, but I use it on carpet. I am happy with it and it was a good price.

Thanks guys! The Smart-Jet definitely looks promising, and right around the price range I was thinking, too. Still can't get over the silent compressors selling for like $800!

Anybody have any thoughts on the Grex AC1810-A? Looks very comparable to the Smart-Jet except that it can pump out a much higher max psi...but I've also got my eye on a Tritium TG so the combo pack might make sense.

Get it. You won't regret it.

I just received my SmartJet from amazon.com. Shipping took two days ($12) and it was only $206.

Hello,

I happen to own the Grex AC1810-A and can say yes it's nice but the jury is still out on it.    If you refer to my thread under "Compressor Moisture Issues"  this past week, you will see much dialogue on the topic.

I love the size, construction and low noise lever of the unit over the older Intermatic I own.   However, I have been getting lots of moisture in the air stream with it.   Hence the topic of my thread.   

Grex Company was very prompt with email replies and seem very willing to stand by their product.

This is a piston type compressor not diaphram as is my Intermatic and many other models.   It tends to run hot but they assured me that the thermal shut off protection will prevent any damage from occuring.    

They claim to have run it in tests up 5 hours straight without incident.

Mine was an ebay purchase for $65.00 plus freight in basically new condition.     Honestly, I would not have gone this route if I had to pay the retail price of $200 plus.    But the price right so I gambled.      Still happy with it but I will need to put additional moisture trap in line or play around with the current trap's location. 

Good luck with your search!

DoogsATX

Still can't get over the silent compressors selling for like $800!

After a QUICK look it seems that the only Sil-Air units generally available in the US are from the "50" series, with the "30" being limited & the "15" being non existent. The Sil-Air 15D or 30D would probably be more compressor than you would ever need & these sell in the UK for the equivalent of $425 & $460;

http://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Werther-Sil-Air-30D-Silent-Airbrush-Compressor.html

DoogsATX

Neither of these is exactly ideal, so I'm looking for something a bit better. Ideally, something that 1) is silent or close to it, 2) includes a regulator, 3) won't wander around the garage floor 4) doesn't need much or any maintenance. The ability to hook up two airbrushes would be nice, but by no means required.

Don't really have a price range in mind. I don't want to break the bank with like a $1,000 compressor, but I'm not looking at the bargain basement either. I'd also be willing to consider CO2, but don't know enough about it to make anything close to an informed decision.

So...experts...what've ya got for me?

For less than $210, you can get a Sparmax twin piston compressor at Hobby Lobby. That is the price with their 40% off coupon and they have one this week. It is the Sparmax TC-2000. You will find many review of it at this forum if you do a search. Can't find a better name brand value than this.

Sparmax used to make all the mid price range of compressor for Iwata including the Spring Jet, Smart Jet and the Power Jet. No direct confirmation that they still do, but the look of the Iwata compressor has not change for a long time.

keilau

For less than $210, you can get a Sparmax twin piston compressor at Hobby Lobby. That is the price with their 40% off coupon and they have one this week. It is the Sparmax TC-2000. You will find many review of it at this forum if you do a search. Can't find a better name brand value than this.

Sparmax used to make all the mid price range of compressor for Iwata including the Spring Jet, Smart Jet and the Power Jet. No direct confirmation that they still do, but the look of the Iwata compressor has not change for a long time.

I would second that, the Sparmax units are pretty good, reliable & do as stated on the tin. I have a Revell (Gmbh) Master Class compressor, which is a Sparmax made twin piston unit with a 2.5l tank - its has never missed a beat. Sparmax re-badge for a number of recognised brands.

I've been using a Sprint Jet for the last 5 years. I didn't like the bleed valve regulator so I run it through the tank of an old CH compressor. Don't keep track of the hours but it's been used a lot. I have a Craftsman too but it's way too loud to use in an apartment and it will walk across the floor. If the Iwata ever dies and I'm still apartment living then I'm probably going with a CO2 setup.

If you're having problems with your current compressor then this is no help but for a setup like you're using you could mount a more precise regulator next to your work station and leave the pressure turned up higher at the compressor.

Tony

Wingman_kz

I've been using a Sprint Jet for the last 5 years. I didn't like the bleed valve regulator so I run it through the tank of an old CH compressor. Don't keep track of the hours but it's been used a lot. I have a Craftsman too but it's way too loud to use in an apartment and it will walk across the floor. If the Iwata ever dies and I'm still apartment living then I'm probably going with a CO2 setup.

The Iwata Sprint Jet is the same compressor as the Smart Jet without the Auto-on-off feature. This is another data point that stated the importance of having the auto feature.

Wingman_kz

If you're having problems with your current compressor then this is no help but for a setup like you're using you could mount a more precise regulator next to your work station and leave the pressure turned up higher at the compressor.

Tony

This is an excellent suggestion. TCP Global has the diaphram type regulator that allows precise setting at low pressure for airbrush. Cheapie one could be a knob controlled simple orifice that would not work well at all and is to be avoided. I also replaced the pressure dial gage at the regulator with a larger 2.5", 60 psi one. I usually airbrush between 15-30 psi. I get very stable pressure at my setup.

keilau

 

Wingman_kz:

 

If you're having problems with your current compressor then this is no help but for a setup like you're using you could mount a more precise regulator next to your work station and leave the pressure turned up higher at the compressor.

Tony

 

 

This is an excellent suggestion. TCP Global has the diaphram type regulator that allows precise setting at low pressure for airbrush. Cheapie one could be a knob controlled simple orifice that would not work well at all and is to be avoided. I also replaced the pressure dial gage at the regulator with a larger 2.5", 60 psi one. I usually airbrush between 15-30 psi. I get very stable pressure at my setup.

Yeah, I've got a pressure gauge and cheapie knob valve at the airbrush end of the hose. The regulator, such as it is, bleeds all the excess air as long as it's opened, so it forces the compressor to fire up and refill the tank every 3-4 minutes of so when I'm airbrushing.  Which, even in the garage, is less than popular at 11:45 at night.

If I could get accurate, consistent pressure and keep the compressor from cycling so often, I'd definitely consider keeping it in action.

DoogsATX

keilau:

Wingman_kz:

If you're having problems with your current compressor then this is no help but for a setup like you're using you could mount a more precise regulator next to your work station and leave the pressure turned up higher at the compressor.

Tony

This is an excellent suggestion. TCP Global has the diaphram type regulator that allows precise setting at low pressure for airbrush. Cheapie one could be a knob controlled simple orifice that would not work well at all and is to be avoided.

Yeah, I've got a pressure gauge and cheapie knob valve at the airbrush end of the hose. The regulator, such as it is, bleeds all the excess air as long as it's opened, so it forces the compressor to fire up and refill the tank every 3-4 minutes of so when I'm airbrushing.  Which, even in the garage, is less than popular at 11:45 at night.

If I could get accurate, consistent pressure and keep the compressor from cycling so often, I'd definitely consider keeping it in action.

Try Wingman_kz's suggestion. I think that you are going to like it. Paasche, Iwata and Badger all sell their regulator separately, but are a lot more expensive than the TCP offer.  The difference between the cheaper and higher price regulator at TCP is the plastic vs. glass cup. Both will go up to 100 psi. The glass cup will not frost up when it ages. I have the cheap one from many years ago and it works very well. The knob is multiple turns and have fine adjustment for pressure.

Yeah - I'm definitely going to try it. I'll be sure to report back on results.

One question - does this setup bleed air? Assuming all the threads are properly sealed, of course. For awhile I was running the airbrush straight off the big compressor with no air bleed, but that long hose run played havoc with the regulator. My current knob regulator (purchased at Lowe's, advertised as being for paint guns...) keeps things a bit more consistent, but basically bleeds off all excess air.

Also where'd you get that pretty pressure gauge? And is it 1/8 or 1/4" NPT?

DoogsATX

Also where'd you get that pretty pressure gauge?

On Ebay because it is cheap there. And I found some surprisingly high quality guages. You have to be patient to find the right one at the right price. It is easy to find gauges at $2-3. But add the shipping too. A $10  with free shipping could be a better deal.

DoogsATX

And is it 1/8 or 1/4" NPT?

Buy the regulator first and check the gauge port thread. My guage at the airbrush end is an Ashcroft brand with 60 psi scale and uses 1/8" NPT side port. It is a little more difficult to find than the 1/4" NPT at the back. Some may need the international BSP if the regulator is made in Japan or China. Find the gauge that matches your regulator.

I'd plug my Senco PC1010 or something like it. It has 1/2 horsepower (can do more, but I think that's cutting hairs) and a one gallon air tank with pressure gauge and moisture valve: $120 on Amazon. I have a Chinese knock off of the Iwata Silver Jet in a condo which works quite well really for comparison. (The little one was actually more expensive.) A tank on an air compressor is a big plus: most of the time there's no noise at all. The Senco claims something under 60DB and I believe them - I use it at home and nobody is bothered when it's on. The Iwata-clone is quieter but is on all of the time. The Iwata clone is also more portable, although the Senco sits under my desk just fine and would be no trouble to move. I think there's a clear advantage overall to anything with a tank and I certainly prefer the Senco. The big discount houses sell cheapo Senco style compressors too but some of them are very loud. I suppose the ideal solution would be to have a powerful compressor in your garage and use it fill a ten gallon tank - and have a mule to drag it around. One of the advantages with a real Iwata, as I understand it, is that it comes with fittings appropriate for all brands of compressors. Not true with many others. If you order from an airbrush place they can fit you out with a $1 part that will connect any compressor to any hose/brush - you just have to know which one it is. Anyway, if you already have something that works and is portable, I'd upgun with something more heavy duty. A lot of the brush makers have tank models but they won't run cheap. Senco is an old tool maker (made in the US even) and their customers aren't necessarily hobbyists: I'd guess that saves more than a few dollars - and the thing is built like a tank.

Eric 

EBergerud

Anyway, if you already have something that works and is portable, I'd upgun with something more heavy duty. A lot of the brush makers have tank models but they won't run cheap. 

Eric 

I don't think heavy duty is my problem...

Seems like most of the problems are coming out of this end...

If a better air regulator (just ordered one from TCP Global this afternoon) can deliver more accurate and consistent airflow and doesn't bleed air causing the compressor to cycle every few minutes, I'll be good. 

Could be something concerning valves or connections: the compressor itself is pretty simple. If anything yours has more muscle than needed. Just looking at your set up, I'd consider using some teflon tape on the connection between your hose and the compressor: cheap and good way to handle leakage. TCP Global guys recommended it. I use it on both my compressors and the quick connect devices on the hoses - works well.

Eric

EBergerud

Could be something concerning valves or connections: the compressor itself is pretty simple. If anything yours has more muscle than needed. Just looking at your set up, I'd consider using some teflon tape on the connection between your hose and the compressor: cheap and good way to handle leakage. TCP Global guys recommended it. I use it on both my compressors and the quick connect devices on the hoses - works well.

Eric

My theory is that the regulator at the compressor is designed for significant air tool use at about 90 psi and not all that great with lower psi. Especially when it's got that long air hose to complicate things. 

When I was running the ABs straight off the compressor hose, I got wildly inconsistent airflow and it would often drop off to nothing. OTOH, the cheapo "regulator" thing I'm running now keeps pressure relatively consistent, but it bleeds all air it doesn't use, and in consequence chews through the tank capacity about as fast as my air cutoff wheel. 

Not concerned about my threads at all. I've been using Loctite 545 for years, going back to my offroading days. It's a specially formulated thread sealant for pneumatic fittings. Used to be very difficult to obtain if you weren't a shop, but nowadays you can buy the stuff on Amazon. It's also way more idiot-proof than teflon tape (which I seem to totally flub about half the time).

DoogsATX

I don't think heavy duty is my problem...

Seems like most of the problems are coming out of this end...

If a better air regulator (just ordered one from TCP Global this afternoon) can deliver more accurate and consistent airflow and doesn't bleed air causing the compressor to cycle every few minutes, I'll be good. 

Very impressive setup. I have not doubt that you can handle air tools equipments better than most of the people on this forum. I expect to hear another success story when you receive the new TCP regulator. Good luck.

DoogsATX

Not concerned about my threads at all. I've been using Loctite 545 for years, going back to my offroading days. 

Hmm, using Loctite 545 on the relatively low pressure dry air line. Is it an overkill here?

I've been using a Sport Jet attached to an air tank for about three years. Works great.

hkshooter

I've been using a Sport Jet attached to an air tank for about three years. Works great.

What brand is the Sport Jet? Just curious.

I obtained a Polar Bear 2000 twin-piston compressor a little less than a year ago, and compared to other hobby compressors I've had, this is a fantastic product. Comes with a regulator and moisture trap, and has thus far provided an absolutely amazing airbrushing experience. It is relatively quiet as well.

http://www.bearair.com/Polar-Bear-2000-Twin-Piston-Compressor/productinfo/120315/

Just a thought - I take it you are draining the receiver on a reasonably regular basis?

I realise you probably are, but if some of the receiver's volume is being taken up by water, the compressor will be running more often to charge the now "smaller" receiver. I appreciate this doesn't answer the air leakage problem, but it could be aggravating the problem.

The "bleed" you describe is 100% indicative of a leak, either from a connection or faulty component. If everything is in order, once the system is charged the compressor should not be kicking in for several hours if you are not using it.

Is your airbrush setup the only thing connected to the compressor (which looks way to healthy to need replacing!!)? 

1: Use an idustrial grade reduction valve. It may very well have an inbuildt moisture trap. If it doesn't use a separate moisture trap just before the reduction valve.  I use something like this:

http://www.jula.no/reduksjonsventil-med-vann-og-smussutskiller-123932

They come in many sizes. I use one with 1/8NPT.

2: Put the regulator / moisture-trap about 1.0 - 2.0 meter before your airbrush, NOT on the compressor outlet.

3: Make a bracket for the regulator / moisture-trap so that the moisture trap hangs vertically! If not IT WILL NOT WORK; it will gulp out water and totally ruin your paint-job.

4: Use a relatively small-gage hose between the regulator and airbrush and a bigger between the compressor and regulator.

If you follow these simple rules you will be home free with any kind of comressor with a tank.  The recuction valve should NOT bleed air!

Remember to empty the moisture-trap from time to time.

Good luck!

Milairjunkie

The "bleed" you describe is 100% indicative of a leak, either from a connection or faulty component. If everything is in order, once the system is charged the compressor should not be kicking in for several hours if you are not using it.

Is your airbrush setup the only thing connected to the compressor (which looks way to healthy to need replacing!!)? 

The bleed is coming straight out of the "regulator" at the airbrush end of the hose. When it's closed up, the system's fine. I suspect there's a minor air leak in one of the fittings somewhere...if I leave the compressor regulator open and set to auto-cycle, it'll cycle on its own maybe twice a day as the air pressure drops below 100 (tops off at 120). 

Now, the airbrush-end "regulator" has a strange sort of ball-jointy type valve on the outbound side. When you open the valve, I believe what it's doing is dumping the extra air pressure out of this valve. The marketing copy says consistent pressure for spray guns, but it was also really cheap.

Should get my TCP regulator in the next few days. Now just need to figure out where to mount it vertically on my folding plastic-and-metal table of a work bench...hmm...I smell zip ties...