Super CHEAP, ridiculously FAST! Paint remover

Excellent!  I am running low on SG!  I think I'will try this out BEFORE i buy more SG.  Thanks for the tip!

Great tip...looks alot more friendly than brake fluid. Thanx!

Mike

I've been using Windex...both name brand and store brand equivalent! 

I think I might have to give this stuff a try!

Thanks for the info! 

Thanks the dog & spokesdoog

As a "simple" modeler have been using Simple Green for a while now, but your results do give me cause to consider changing. 

 Anyone have a report on Mean Green and how it works on Alclad II and/or enamels?

Hi,

I'm new here and have just started modeling againn after a 25 year break. My Hasegawa !:48 spitfire came out great except that i would like to strip the paint off one wing as it sprayed on too thick and detail was lost. What can I use for Enamel paint And layers of gloss and dull caot?

Thanx so much in advance.

itz

Hi,

I'm new here and have just started modeling againn after a 25 year break. My Hasegawa !:48 spitfire came out great except that i would like to strip the paint off one wing as it sprayed on too thick and detail was lost. What can I use for Enamel paint And layers of gloss and dull caot?

Thanx so much in advance.

 

Two of the best products to remove enamels is Super Clean degreaser and Easy Off oven cleaner in the yellow can. With the Super Clean the part needs to be submerged to work best and Easy-Off works best when sprayed and left in an airtight bag or container so that the fumes can work on the paint. Both contain Lye which is caustic but safe if used according to instructions.

itz

Hi,

I'm new here and have just started modeling againn after a 25 year break. My Hasegawa !:48 spitfire came out great except that i would like to strip the paint off one wing as it sprayed on too thick and detail was lost. What can I use for Enamel paint And layers of gloss and dull caot?

Thanx so much in advance.

 

I have had good results with Simple Green, (soaking the part or model in the product as long a necessary (over night in many cases , brush with an old tooth brush  and rinse) it has a lower toxicity rating compaired to the oven cleaner, brake fluid,etc, types. However as the topic of this post suggests-  Mean Green may do the job as well.  The good part is you get to experiment and we get the results

So who makes Mean Green?

over this side of the pond we can't even get Simple Green!

Jon_a_its

So who makes Mean Green?

over this side of the pond we can't even get Simple Green!

http://www.simplegreen.com/about_us_global_partners.php

http://www.meangreencleaner.net/Home.html

Wow, that's great information, thanks very much for sharing it,

Will it remove paint bleed from clear parts without fogging/melting the clear parts?

Hi doog,

Are the Simple Green and Mean Green just standard detergents as i can quite read the label on the pics.

Thanks

Leo

Thanks for the tip Karl.  I'll give it a try.   I use the Simple Green in with the Future to help level and shine.  I will give the Mean Green a go here also.  The pic's are impressive.    Thanks again   Buddy B.  

zapme

Hi doog,

Are the Simple Green and Mean Green just standard detergents as i can quite read the label on the pics.

Thanks

Leo

Yes they pretty much are. They are biodegradable though which is a good thing.

Especially for those of us who work in very "green" cities.

Glad to pass on the info, guys--I"m sorry I couldn't answer all the questions, but I just don't know...uey....

If anyone garners anymore info or experience with this stuff, please post it here!

Thanks, guys!

Well Karl I'm going to get to try mean green sooner than I had hoped to.  I used Testors flat enamel for the bottom of the p-51 and then  (to much pain killer) after some filler touch-ups sprayed the bottom with auto primer! Aaaa!   I'll let you and the rest know how it did with the enamel.   GB   Buddy B.  

Ok Karl.  I tried the Mean Green on the auto primer over Testors flat enamel, and it didn't do a thing.  So back to the rough stuff for this project.  I did use paint thinner which removed the auto primer, but not the flat enamel.  See ya latter mate.    Buddy B. 

BBAT222

Ok Karl.  I tried the Mean Green on the auto primer over Testors flat enamel, and it didn't do a thing.  So back to the rough stuff for this project.  I did use paint thinner which removed the auto primer, but not the flat enamel.  See ya latter mate.    Buddy B. 

Thanks for posting your results here. Enamel and lacquer is a tough call. Once they harden, they're tough as nails.

Thanks too, everyone weighing in. Well, at least we know it removes acrylics with lightening speed!

Bud,

Both Super Clean degreaser and Easy-Off oven cleaner will remove enamels.

You may need to soak it for several hours and scrub with an old toothbrush but it will strip it eventually.

GreenThumb

Bud,

Both Super Clean degreaser and Easy-Off oven cleaner will remove enamels.

You may need to soak it for several hours and scrub with an old toothbrush but it will strip it eventually.

Time is your friend with any of these simple/mean green products. The older/dryer the paint the longer it needs to soak.  Have waited for up to 48 hours on one stubborn @$%$  uh- difficult little monster; each try, "some" paint came off- layer by layer. Eventually , though, it all came off.

Nail polish remover.  Large bottle, costs peanuts, lasts ages, and is instant.  Takes off all paint, and leaves the plastic perfect.  Brilliant.  The last bottle I bought was about $1.50 some months back.  Usually use tissue soaked in it, then rub down the model.  When tough, I use an old toothbrush, and 2-3 applications.

It has another application.  It removes excess filler.  On a recent build, where there's excess filler where the fuselage meets the fin, I used a cotton ear-bud, soaked in nail polish remover, and rubbed it along the seam.  Took quite a while, to be honest, but the finish was better than sanding alone (I did some sanding).

In my view, along with Future/Klear/Pledge everyone needs a bottle of nail polish remover!

Centhot

Nail polish remover.  Large bottle, costs peanuts, lasts ages, and is instant.  Takes off all paint, and leaves the plastic perfect.  Brilliant.  The last bottle I bought was about $1.50 some months back.  Usually use tissue soaked in it, then rub down the model.  When tough, I use an old toothbrush, and 2-3 applications.

It has another application.  It removes excess filler.  On a recent build, where there's excess filler where the fuselage meets the fin, I used a cotton ear-bud, soaked in nail polish remover, and rubbed it along the seam.  Took quite a while, to be honest, but the finish was better than sanding alone (I did some sanding).

In my view, along with Future/Klear/Pledge everyone needs a bottle of nail polish remover!

I would be real cautious with nail polish remover as it contains acetone which is pretty harsh stuff especially on clear plastic. Super Clean is much less toxic smelling and does a great job.

Never tried it on clear parts.  It does stink a bit though!  However, for non-clear parts, it's a dream (if you don't mind a smell whilst working).  Girls use it to clear their fingernails though, so, not too bad.

Well Mike where the auto primer caused the enamel to crack and split it also scared the plastic.  Am I dead in the water or is there some kind of hope?  Buddy B.

There is nothing that can't be fixed.

What is scarred and where?

The bottom of the wings and the fuselage.  I've got the paints off, but where the enamel shrank and split, it left spider web like scares on the surface of the bottom.  A lot of sanding, but I'm afraid I'll lose a lot of detail. Really smooth.     Buddy B.  

Can you prime over it and cover the damage?

Well Mike the mention of primer gives me the hives, but I think your right.  I think I'll pencil back in the details with some scribing. Here is to no finger hash!  G-night and thanks to all.  Buddy B.

You can buy NON-ACETONE nail polish remover.  Cheap!  While I haven't tried removing paint with it, I find it works well for thinning and removing Squadron putty, before it dries.  And it won't attack the plastic.